Country Tavern Update - The Times They Are A'Changin'

If you haven't been to the Country Tavern lately, you haven't been to the Country Tavern. I've been eating ribs there for more than 20 years and most of the time they have been good. Once in awhile they have been excellent. Yesterday they were as good as ribs get.

BUT -- if you don't like change you won't like the Tavern today. The owner, Lois, died in a car wreck awhile back and her grandson, the new owner and manager, has gone in for a major renovation of just about everything...such as:

1. The room has been redone with new paint, elevated ceiling with air conditioner ducts revealed, much more light in the room (sort of an old warehouse look rather than the old honky-tonk look.)

2. The bathrooms now sport black toilets, sinks with countertops, hot water and even fresh flowers!

3. They have menus.

4. Rather than having three offerings (rib plate, brisket plate and brisket sandwich), they now have two kinds of ribs (St. Louis style, which they say is what they have always served, and loin backs, which are a dollar a plate more), brisket, brisket sandwich, Earl Campbell sausage and a choice of coleslaw, potato salad, beans and chips.

5. They bring you hot wet towels after you eat.

6. The waitress brings you the bill and tells you she will "be your cashier," rather than your just going to the bar to pay.

7. There is now no smoking at the tables, but you can still smoke at the bar.

Whether you like the change really depends on your personal taste, but it ain't the same old Tavern.

We had ribs yesterday afternoon and got some brisket to bring home. Ribs were excellent. Brisket is a little soft (like it had been steamed) and was lacking in smoke flavor. Not terrible, just not great.

I would love to hear from some of you who have been there before and/or after the changes and know what you think.

[Flintgal]

I love the Ribs at the Country Tavern,I have had ribs from all over the country these are some of the Best!Although from time to time i notice that the smoke ring isn't in the ribs but overall Country Taverns rank one of the top 5 in my opinion.I have tried ones from Louisiana and have yet to find any that can compare to Country taverns,Alabama is no match either.Alabama and Mississippi has a great pulled pork with coleslaw on top,Thats good eating.I will be going to Country Tavern next week.We go about 2 times a month,will report back in,I love the changes in the Decor and Especially the womens bathrooms,alot cleaner and you actually have room to sit so thats a plus,Overall i would give Country Tavern an A+

[mikebohr]

Went to the Tavern a couple weeks ago for the first time in 30 years -- the ribs (why would anyone go there for anything else) were better than I remembered. Absolutely fall off the bone perfect. Others in the group ordered some combo's, but the concensus was RIBS, RIBS and more RIBS. Ambience is definitely different than it was in the 60's and 70's, and my nostalgia wished it was the same -- however, Saturday night wasn't as much as a survival gamble as I remembered it. The renovations (can a restroom in a BBQ joint be WOW?) were a bit disconcerting, but many of the attempts to upscale have been dropped. No menus, few choices, cold beer, attentive waitresses (a lot younger than they used to be:)), didn't see the warm towels, but we were there kinda late and they may have run out -- definitely need a place to wash up after a couple of large rib orders.

[frances c]

I was at the Tavern early December for my husband's company Christmas party. I've never been much of a rib person (pick your jaw up off the floor!), but I have to say we had ribs that nite and I am reformed! Those ribs were absolutely delicious! The atmosphere was fantastic and the waitresses were great! My mom has always loved CT - and I'm with her now! Going out this afternoon to pick up ribs and brisket for our New Years lunch tomorrow!

[ddavis]

We have been there 8-10 times during 2008 and for the most part the ribs have been good. Sometimes better than others, of course -- this is barbecue, after all. We went last week and the ribs were as good as I have ever had. It was on a very busy day -- lunch at about 1:30 and we had to wait for a table. We had been a couple of weeks earlier and had to go early, about 11:30, and the ribs were dry -- like we were getting heated-up ribs from the night before Still the best place I know for ribs.

[steve powell]

The black urinarls are cool (be sure to show your girl... really). It didn't bother me at all that the place was cleaner and better lit. Didn't it used to have a drop ceiling with stains on the tiles? Don't miss that at all. They did not offer me a menu (I just grunted "ribs," and they came), I never heard the words "Kansas City Style," and the hot moist washcloth at the end of the meal was nice. I thought the ribs, sauce, and everything else edible, was still the best in the world and unchanged as it should be. These (minor) changes are all for the better. I first ate at the country tavern probebly 20 years ago, when my dear friend (a local, inbread, aggie, White House boy) took me there and introduced me to the best sauce and ribs on the planet. We live in Indiana now, but we plan our trips south around a visit to this little piece of heavenly Texas (kansas city style, my hat). Steve

[sallen]

Hot wet towels and menus. Amazing. We used to eat at Country Tavern in the late 70s and early 80s. You went on Friday night because the place got a little crazy on Saturdays. We ordered ribs and beer. The wait staff brought the beer and then the ribs. The beer kept coming. Sometimes we were asked if we wanted to order another and sometimes the comment was 'someone ordered this and left'. We never really know quite what the bill would be but it seemed as though whether we ordered ribs and two beers each and drank four, or ordered four each and drank a couple more, the bill was always the same, about $8 a head. I guess that would be the proverbial ' good old days'.

[ddavis]

Funny this post was re-energized a year since my last post and two and a half years since the original. My wife and I ate there again last Saturday and had eaten there a couple of months before. The ribs have been better the last few times we have been there. They have dropped the choice of type of ribs. Now it's just ribs. They have really been good, meaty and even smokey on our last few meals there. Sallen, you would be surprised at the cost now: large order of ribs is now $17.00. Two orders of ribs, four jalapenos, two Coronas and two Diet Cokes were around $50 before tip.

[candacerae]

I haven't been back to the tavern much since Lois died, my familiy and I moved out of state....However when you go, ask for Linda, she has been with the tavern for over 20 years now and is deffinately the best waitress in the world...if unavailable try Sarah or Mary, they are Linda's daughter's and have been raised at the tavern since toddler hood.

The changes were a lot to take in at the begining, but Toby has his grandmother's spirit and has tried to develop the Tavern to stay with the original idea of serving the best ribs and draft that began over 70 years ago.

The beans are awesome, they are special to the tavern, But the classic rib plate with potato salad, pickles, a slice of bread and thin sauce is still just that, a classic.

It is worth taking a bypass down Hwy 31 from I-20 just to eat at what truly is the best rib joint in Tx.

[River Rat]

I must respectfully disagree. I have been back numerous times since Lois died and several times since my original post that started this over a year ago. The quality of the ribs is inconsistent and I wonder where the smoke is. Funny that when you drive up there is no smoke to be seen. Is he baking the ribs and just relying on the rub for flavor?

[gradyman]

Yes, you were correct, there were several years of inconsistency.

After Lois died, Toby was not the sole owner of The Tavern and thats where the problems began. There were three relatives involved and it was coin toss on if the ribs would be good or not.

Toby now has sole ownership and revamped the ribs. Every time I go there now they are just like the ribs I grew up to know and love.

Every.Single.Time.

Lots of meat, falling off the bone.

Also, I know someone who used to clean out The Taverns smokers, I can assure you they are smoked not baked.

I hate wait service at bbq joints. It just takes away from the bbq experience imo.

Sorry, Dick, but I am not familiar with Country Tavern's location. Where is it?

It's about 5 miles west of Kilgore on Hwy. 31.

Say it ain't so!!!! Country Tavern has the best ribs one can ever eat and that place had the best BBQ vibe around. At least the Ribs are good. I think you can still get Falstaff on draft.

Dick,

Your comments are right on point. My friends and I have grown up eating at the Country Tavern for over thirty years. The new place is not bad but it just does not seem right ordering "St. Louis" style ribs. It feels like a betrayal at some levels.

It is just a good BBQ resturant now and not a Texas icon. While growing up, the old "Tavern" was so unique of a dating experience with its great ribs, cold beer in icy mugs, lone pool table, juke box, and dark booths lit only by a single candle that all of our girl friends/future wives were taken there on special dates. Can't say the new place will be worthy of the same reverence.

For excellent BBQ in Kilgore, the place now is "Boom Town BBQ". The owner, Gary, chops it up for you across the counter in his small portable building located about 5 miles south of Kilgore on Hwy 259. We entertain international clients on a weekly basis and this has become our "Texas" BBQ of choice.

Enjoyed your comments.

Chuck

[River Rat]

We finally got around to trying Boom Town BBQ near Kilgore yesterday afternoon. Overall I'd say it's OK. Good, not great (which seems to be about the way I react to most restaurants lately). Gary Wade, the owner, is a great host and loves to talk! He's worth a trip there.

We ordered the ribs, brisket and sausage and also the special "Boom Town Trash." Gary also gave us a lagniappe of hot links with special sauce. All servings were very large. We over-ordered in a big way. Here's my take:

Ribs -- Falling-off-the-bone tender. Literally. Actually I would have preferred more caramelizing on the outside. Flavor was good and smokey.

Brisket -- Also incredibly tender. A decent crust and good smoke ring but then somewhat dry. Flavor was OK.

Sausage -- Pretty standard Eckrich-like with a good smoking.

"Boom Town Trash" is basically a Frito pie on steroids. It's Fritos, chopped brisket, pico de gallo, pinto beans, sour cream, cheddar cheese and barbecue sauce. It is pretty trashy, but neither my wife nor I could quit eating it.

Hot links were good, spicy and course. I liked them and they come with some kind of orangish-colored sauce that went very well with them.

Boom Town Barbecue is open Wednesday - Saturday, 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. They also have desserts, but that was out of the question after all we ate.

By the way -- no alcohol.

Ribs -- Falling-off-the-bone tender