Paris and the Dordogne in late October
Hello again. I was just in France on my "honeymoon" back in April and had a fantastic time, as many of you know. We took that trip in between my fiance's jobs, not knowing whether his new boss would be able to give him a honeymoon after our real wedding (which is in a week!). She very generously did, and we have (a little sheepishly) decided to return to France. We were a bit chagrined and embarrassed at first, but ultimately decided that on our honeymoon, we didn't want to have to work hard to adjust and wonder if we would have a good time. So with full confidence and gusto, here we are again! How lucky are we?
We arrive at 11AM. Probably catch a quick lunch and some pastry in the afternoon. We are meeting friends that evening for dinner and are considering either returning to Josephine Chez Dumonet (I know, we did this last time, but that bourguignon....) or trying Chez Denise. The part of me that likes to cling to the familiar and tried and true wants to go back to JCD, but I also like being adventurous. It's hard being me. Imagine what goes on in my head. Any thoughts and personal opinions?
We have booked lunch at Le Cinq. I've been twice already, but he has never been. Am still on the fence as to whether I should pick someplace new for both of us, like Pierre Gagnaire, but this is a song that is sung over and over again on this board. I will not ask.
For dinner, we'll probably abstain or else have something very light. If we're ambitious, we may split a galette at our favorite Le Pot O Lait.
We head down to the Dordogne. TGV to Bordeaux, pick up our car, perhaps lunch in Bordeaux or the vicinity - considering La Tupina, Le Petit Commerce - and then off to Tremolat. We are staying at Le Vieux Logis and having dinner at Bistrot de la Place (formerly known as Bistrot d'en Face), the casual bistro there.
No concrete plans. Anyone been to the bakery in Tremolat? How are their pastries? We are hoping NOT to have to pay the $25 for breakfast at the hotel.... Hoping to see Lascaux caves, maybe the jardin de Marqueyssac (sp?), and Sarlat, maybe Perigueux. Dinner suggestions?
Same deal as Thursday, except we have dinner reservations at the main restaurant at Le Vieux Logis. Very excited.
Head back to Paris. Don't quite know what we are going to do food-wise. Thinking of Terroir Parisien, Chez Denise (if we don't do it on our first day), Au Bon Coin, Lazare, L'Auberge du 15, Rino, Les Climats... Outside of Terroir Parisien and Chez Denise, I wasn't able to get a wide feeling for these restaurants. They just seemed interesting. Can anyone give me personal preferences on these?
Our last day.... Dinner is booked at Axuria. Anything to make sure to order? Very much looking forward.
We are making Des Gateaux et du Pains our pastry base for breakfasts (except for our first morning, Tuesday, when they are closed....). We also plan to return to Le Rubis as it was a favorite of my fiance last time. We also hope to finally make it to Carl Marletti. Any other pastry (and other!) suggestions would be very, very welcome.
Thank you again. You guys are ze best.
Excuse me, is the Vieux Logis you mention the Vieux Logis in Trémolat ? I guess probably, but Le Vieux Logis is a common restaurant name. It's like saying I'm lunching at Sam's in America. :)
The Trémolat one is fantastic. Dunno about the other logis. :)
"Terroir Parisien, Chez Denise (if we don't do it on our first day), Au Bon Coin, Lazare, L'Auberge du 15, Rino, Les Climats... Can anyone give me personal preferences on these?"
Rereading your magnum opus report on last time. You rock. Getting a reminder of what you liked and disliked…
A quick rundown:
- L'Auberge du 15. Someone just gave a great recommendation. The restaurant serves very good food and is … quiet ! What not to like, especially on a honeymoon.
Rino. Lovely food, inventive ma non troppo. And a non-gut-buster.
Les Climats. Sorriest, I love the setting, but don't remember the food. Conclusion: food not bad, and not at all memorable.
Have a great honeymoon.
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"Dinner is booked at Axuria. Anything to make sure to order?"
I don't think anything sticks out over everything else.
I don't have anything to offer, but I just wanted to say, yes, you are lucky!!!
My one and only trip to the Dordogne lasted six wonderful nights, but we maybe went to two restaurants that whole time (and I don't remember names). The rest of the time we had dinners in French families' homes - including one at a long table set in our friend's vineyard. Poor us!
Anyway, I remember your fabulous report from your first honeymoon ;-), so am looking forward to the next one. And congratulations on your "real" wedding!
Just catching up on your posts this morning. Great reporting! And I'm going to start using the word "floof" - love that.
Do get an apartment next time - you will not regret it. Interacting with the merchants, buying the wonderful foodstuffs, and then getting creative in a tiny Paris kitchen are some of my favorite activities.