Epoisses by Rodolphe Le Meunier
- Melanie Wong Sep 29, 2013 02:06 PM
Yesterday I noticed Époisses de Bourgogne from affineur Rodolphe Le Meunier at The Cheese Shop of Healdsburg. I'd be interested in hearing how it compares to Berthaut, the producer more commonly available around here.
Did you ever end up trying it? I am not sure if I have tried that particular one. I have had the Berthaut many times. Do you know the producer of the really big Epoisse they have at the Berkeley Cheeseboard? Have you ever tried the Chablis? It's very similar to Epoisse but made in a different part of Burgundy.
I have not purchased one yet. But will probably try it at some point.
I posted about the big wheel, Berthaut Epoisses Perriere here, as it almost seems like a different cheese from the smaller format in its aging characteristics, texture and flavor,
I have had the cheeses washed with Chablis. I believe they're made by the same producers that make Epoisses, so not a different part of Burgundy, but made with a different wine grape.
Since in France now the cheese affineur, as a celebrity chef, can put his name on something to give it a certain frisson, RL Meunier is doing the same thing as Herve Mons in Roanne and Alain Hess in Beaune and others do. The problem is regardless of name there are still four produces of Epoisses and only one is au lait cru. whether Meunier's comes from Berthault or Gaugry or the others is up for grabs. Neither Mons nor Hess identify whose Epoisses they are aging on the box so it is difficult.
l would bet a few acres of the farm that it is pasteurized or at least thermalized, and a few more acres it comes from Berthault. Does that make it better or worse, no but probably the same, thus aging after it leaves the hands of whoever in France aged it matters more.