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Sep 28, 2013 08:56 AM

3 Bells for Serpico

Has anyone had the lamb rib dish yet? Sounds fascinating:

"That maneuver is just an appetizer, though, compared to Serpico's Frankenlamb for two, which reinvents usually scrawny lamb ribs into hefty slabs by gluing thick hunks of shoulder meat in between the bone and the rib's ample layer of fat. Cooked for 24 hours at low temp and piled high on the plate in a fiery marinade of burnt onions, Sichuan chiles, and star anise, these ribs were among the most intense things I've sunk my teeth into all year."

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  1. "A cappuccino-looking pudding of charred eggplant topped with a layer of minted yogurt was a brilliant touch - though not quite cooling enough to tame a secondary sauce that overwhelmed it all with runaway heat. It was one of just a few kitchen flaws in a debut that came as close as any to landing four bells on the first try."

    1. I had it when I was there a couple months ago, it was very good, I didn't like it as much as Laban apparently did. Also, that dish costs $55, and while the menu says "for two" it's not really big enough for two, I think they just put that on the menu to ameliorate the sticker shock a bit. When a single dish at a restaurant costs that much, my expectations for it go up accordingly, and while I did enjoy it a lot, I wouldn't recommend it at that price.

      3 Replies
      1. re: Buckethead

        Did they say where they sourced the lamb from? I am trying ot understand the cost structure of that dish. If they are buying organic lamb, that is part of it. They are cooking something for a long period of time which requires extra labor, I guess that is another. Even rack of lamb is usually a lot less expensive than those ribs.

        1. re: cwdonald

          It's from Elysian Fields, which goes some way towards explaining the price.

          1. re: Buckethead

            I had a 8-course tasting menu at Blackfish back in 2010, of which 5 courses featured Elysian Fields lamb. $170 per person (including tax/tip).

            The meal came with a brochure about Elysian Fields' history (co-owed by Thomas Keller) that described their lamb raising technique as "patent-pending". Struck me as a bit hypocritical.

            But it tasted mighty good!

      2. We had the lamb dish at our first visit to Serpico and it was delicious. It was enough for 2 because we ordered a number of other dishes. We liked most of the dishes we tried -- but our choices were limited because we don't want to eat deep fried food or sausages (too much salt).