My Venice recommendations and inquiries
- sidcundiff Sep 22, 2013 12:04 PM
When I first went to Venice in 2014, and for several years afterward, I rarely dined well in Venice. But thanks to you Chowhounders and the manager of my hotel, I've found a few good places to eat. I offer that list below both FYI and for Chowhounders' remarks. At the end I have several inquiries.
WHERE I HAVE EATEN WELL SINCE 2011
Locanda Cipriani, piazza Santa Fosca, 29, on the island of Torcello, Tel 041 73 01 50, http://www.locandacipriani.com/eng/in..., Open year-round except January
Closed on Tuesdays and January
Though expensive I ate well with good service ast here on Easter Monday 2013. While most Venetian restaurants are crowded, this one, because of its location has plenty of room and al fresco in a garden.
Fiachetteria Toscana, Salizada S.Giovanni Grisostomo, Cannaregio 5719
Tel 041 52 85, 281. . Closed Tuesdays http://www.fiaschetteriatoscana.it/en...
Expensive. I’ve eaten here three times since 2011, and I’ve always eaten well. Twice I had a delicious plate of liver Venetian style. Ask for the waiter Roberto.
Anice Stellato, Fondamenta della Sensa 3272 in Cannaregio, Tel 041 72 07 44, closed Mondays and Tuesdays and sometime in August. Expensive. http://www.osterianicestellato.com/ If possible, ask to sit outside. A creative cuisine, done well, very friendly staff.
Al Covo, Calle Della Pescaria, TEL 041 5223812, closed Wednesdays and Thursdays http://www.ristorantealcovo.com/Defau... firstname.lastname@example.org Expensive
My favorite restaurant in Venice. The owner/chef comes out and tells you what is on the menu. Don’t ask him for his recommendation: “It’s like asking me which of my children I prefer. They are all my creations.” His wife, Diane, is from Texas and is the desert chef.
Antiche Carampane, 041 524 0165 (if possible, ask to sit outside) Sestiere San Polo, 1911, 30125, closed Sundays and Mondays http://www.antichecarampane.com/ Expensive
I last ate here Easter Friday, and I had the best fish that I have ever eaten.
Busa-alla Torre, Campo Stefano 3, on the island of Murano, Tel 041 73 96 62, open only at dinner (“lunch” to you Yankees). One very fine Chowhounder had a negative experience here, and I’ll not question that experience. Still, I’ve eaten here every time that I am in Venice, and I’ve eaten well at a moderate price. In 2011, the owner, Lele, who resembles an aging lion, came up to me and told me that he had a fresh piece of squid; he would eat half; Would I like the other half? Indeed, and it was a big piece, grilled.
Ai 40 Ladroni, Fondamenta della Sensa 3253, 30121 TEL 041 715736.
Reasonable priced, packed full last Easter Week, good food. When Anice Stellate was booked, this place was recommended by my hotel manager, Matteo, a born Venetian who knows the city very well.
Trattoria Casa Mia, SS Apostole, Calle Dell’Oca 4430
Reasonable priced, packed full last Easter Week, good food. Be careful with the Calle Della’Oca. It’s really two streets. Start from the end at SS Apostole. Go the other end and turn left into the Calle de Verdi, and turn right into the continuation of Calle Dell’Ocra. Recommended by my hotel manager (above).
Ai Promessi Sposi, Calle dell’Oca 4367 Tel 041 21 2747, closed for dinner (“lunch” to you Yankees) on Mondays and Wednesdays. Good food at a reasonable price. See above what I have written about Calle dell’Ocra. Recommended by my hotel manager (above).
Algiubagio, Fondamente Nove, Cannaregio, 5039, Tel 041 52 36 084, closed Tuesdays, http://www.algiubagio.net/. Right next to my hotel on the Fondamente Nove, I was expecting a tourist trap. I was wrong. At the bar, excellent choices in a glass of wine and cicchetti. I ate ate a full meal there last Easter Week. Good food at a reasonable price. Recommended by my hotel manager (above).
Gatte Nero, Address: Fondamenta della Giudecca, 88, on the island of Burano Tel 041 730120, closed Mondays and November http://www.gattoneroburano.com/
Fine place to eat on Burano, and reasonably priced. Recommended for Torcello visitors as well. Recommended by my hotel manager (above).
Gelateria Nico, Fondamenta Zattere 922, 30123, for ice cream, Tel 041 5225293 http://www.gelaterianico.com/ Good ice cream at a beautiful location. You can sit outside on the water, although this costs more.
La Cantina, Cannaregio 3689, Campo San Felice Tel: 041 522 8258.
While not cheap, I ate well here in 2012, Recommended by my hotel’s manager (see above).
Vini da Gigio, Tel 04 15 28 51 40 Fondamente San Felice, Cannareggio, closed Mondays and Tuesdays http://www.vinidagigio.com/
Recommended by my hotel manager (above). While not cheap, I had a fabulous meal here and a long wine list to choose from.
PLACES HIGHLY RECOMMENDED BY CHOWHOUNDERS YET WHERE I'VE YET TO EAT. Tell about each place.
Osteria da Fiori Tel 041 721 308, Calle del Scaleter, closed Sundays http://www.dafiore.net/. Has a Michelin Star, and several years ago our own M. Fant recommended it.
Osteria alle Testiere, Tel 041 52 27 220, Calle del Mondo Novo, 5801, closed Sundays http://www.osterialletestiere.it/
Said by Chowhounders the best place for fish.
Cantinone già Schiavi, TEL: 041 5230034 Fondamenta Nani, 992, 30123 Dorsoduro. Said to offer excellent cicchetti.
La Zucca, del Meglio/Calle delle Tintor 1762, Santa Croce, Tel: 041-524-1570, Closed Sundays http://www.lazucca.it/
PLACE WHERE I ATE WELL SOME YEARS AGO. ARE THEY STILL RECOMMENDABLE?
Trattoria da Remigio, Salizada dei Greci 3416, Tel 041 523 0089, Closed Sundays
Corte Sconta, Calle del Pestrin 3886-Castello- 041-522-7024, Calle del Pestrin, 3886, 30122 Castello, closed Sundays
The Met at the Hotel Metropole, Tel 041 5240034 http://www.hotelmetropole.com/MET-Res...
More proof that one Chowhounder's meat is another's poison:
I ate liver at Fiaschetteria Toscana (longer ago than 2011) and it arrived at my table overcooked. I was having such a lousy time overall in the restaurant I didn't complain (I just wanted to get out of there), but I later complained on Chowhound about it, one very fine Chowhounder (sincerely) told me that liver was such a Venetian home-cook's type of dish, it didn't make sense to order it a Venetian restaurant like Fiaschetteria Toscana. I also complained about some fairly obnoxious behavior by the waiter, and was told by many people that I have should have asked to be seated downstairs rather than upstairs. (No one mentioned the additional requirement of asking for Robert.)
Interestingly, the very best liver I have ever eaten in a restaurant anywhere in the world was at Antica Trattoria della Gigina in Bologna (where it was wrapped in laurel leaves and grilled). I just double checked my recollection with a google search: You disliked your meal when you ate there! (You didn't mention what you ate, however).
So people like different things when they sit down to eat.
Osteria Testiere has been discussed in almost every discussion of Venice over the last 10 years, including the most recent ones. So I won't repeat more here except to say that yes, it is still as good as ever. But very very small and so hard to get a table.
Corte Sconta: Never changes. Still warm and welcoming and has an amazing multi course antipasto that is the thing to get.
Alle Testiere is very small, about 30 guests for each of the two nightly seatings. It is booked solid at night, even during the winter months. Until the past couple of years, one can usually get a reservation couple weeks ahead for a weeknight. Now, a month ahead may not be enough.
You have eaten some of the better restaurants in Venice. As for those on your 'to consider list':
Alle Testiere: it serve some of the best seafood in Venice but it is no better than others such as Antiche Carampane.
Cantine gia Schiavi: it make some of the best sandwiches and panini, great wines and wonderful owners. It does not serve traditional cicxcchetti such as saor.
La Zucca: the food is very good but menu is very ecletic with only a few Venetian items.
Osteria da Fiore: have not been there in a few years. Last time the food was excellent. Is it worth it is big consideration for us.
The Met: it changed chef two years ago. Have not been there since and have not heard any new report.
A few you might consider: Al Paradiso, L'Orto dei Mori, Osteria San Marco(very good cicchetti in front bar and for seafood, Boccadoro . All on the price level as Al Covo, etc.
Thanks for posting this. I'll find it very useful as I have the opportunity to visit Venice for 10 days in October. The trip came up at very short notice so I have to compress my usual months of research into a couple of weeks.
Would you be able to give me an idea, in Euros or dollars, where reasonable turns into expensive on your scale of restaurant costs.
FOR WHICH I STILL HAVE THE BILL (last Easter Week, for one person, four courses, in Euro; the apetizer ):
Busa-alla Torre, 59.50 (I got the sea bass for my secundo; otherwise the bill would have been less. The appetizer was a huge plate of cured ham -- delicious but could have made a meal in itself.)
Ai 40 Ladroni, 38 (a steal in Venice; no 40 thieves here!)
Vini da Gigio, 57 without the wine
Fiaschetteria Toscana (n.b., a Venetian, NOT a Tuscan restaurant), without the wine, 87
Trattoria Casa Mia, 35 without the wine, another steal for Venice.
Locanda Cipriani, without the wine, 88
Trattoria Antiche Carampane, 54 without the wine
FOR WHICH I HAVE NO BILL:
Anice Stellato -- Expensive
Al Covo -- expensive
Ai Promessi Sposi -- moderate
Algiubagio -- moderate
Gatte Nero -- moderate, yet I just had two courses. If you're going to Torcello, and Cipriani is too expensive, this is the place to dine; it's located on the island of Burano, where you change waterbuses for Torcello
La Cantina -- can't remember (back in 2012)
I pray this helps. Perhaps other Chowhounders can add information.
re: Beach Chick
Beach Chick, for most restaurants on my list and during late October and November, 4-5 dayswould certainly be more than enough for reservations, and for some -- Busa-alla Torre, Ai 40 Ladroni, Ai Promessi Sposi, Algiubagio, Gatte Nero, La Cantina -- you could easily make the reservation the same day, as my hotel manager did during Easter Week, a high season. November has high water (flooding), nightfall comes early, and the temperature is chilly, so Venice really begins to move from shoulder season to low season; thus reservations are more easily made. (As for the High Water, it usually is gone after two hours.)
Yet for all these points I'll let those Chowhounders who know Venice better than I comment.
Are 4-5 days enough to see Venice itself? Well, Chowhound is really about food. Still, If it is your first visit, I'd say yes, enough to get a feel for the city -- certainly a culinary feel for what Venice cooks well. I think other parts of Italy cook pizza and tomato sauces for pasta better. In Venice, emphasize seafood and liver. And I've had the best pastry in Italy while in Venice; I wonder if this is the result of former Austrian rule.
Again, others on this site can give better advice.