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Cookbooks of the Month for October 2013: The Food of Portugal and The New Portuguese Table: Exciting Flavors from Europe’s Western Coast

Next month we will explore two books that will introduce us to Portuguese cuisine. Jean Anderson’s THE FOOD OF PORTUGUAL and David Leite’s THE NEW PORTUGUESE TABLE: EXCITING FLAVORS FROM EUROPE’S WESTERN COAST have been selected as October’s Cookbooks of the Month. On October 1st, I'll post individual threads for reporting your experiences from these books, but until then you can use this announcement thread for general discussion about the books.

The voting thread that got us here:

The nomination thread:

A general explanation of Cookbook of the Month, and a list of past books:

Are you still adhering to a cookbook embargo or want to try some recipes first before buying the book? Join in on the fun by trying some of the recipes available online.

Food of Portugal

Hot Red Pepper Sauce (Molho de Piri-piri) http://tinyurl.com/qjb69ju
Shrimp with Hot Red Peppers (Camaroes de Piri-Piri) http://tinyurl.com/nts5ccb
Pineapple in Port http://tinyurl.com/kuoj95d
Chicken Escabache (original recipe uses patridge or cornish hen) http://tinyurl.com/kbsm8dz
Jugged Chicken http://tinyurl.com/n4yd3gs
Green Beans with Coriander and Garlic http://tinyurl.com/kagkwnv
Scallops Algarve Style http://tinyurl.com/mlayjye
Fresh Coriander Soup http://tinyurl.com/omytx66
Chickpea Soup Alentejo-Style http://tinyurl.com/qdda48e
Alentejo-Style Pork and Clams http://tinyurl.com/q2mqkae
Pineapple in Port with Fresh Chopped Mint http://tinyurl.com/qc9bd89
Strawberries in Port http://www.savorsa.com/2013/04/showca...
Portuguese Tomato Rice https://www.recipebinder.co.uk/recipe...
Bacon from Heaven http://www.cookingchanneltv.com/recip...
Clams in a Cataplana http://www.cork-popper.com/tag/quinta...
Caldo Verde http://tinyurl.com/ppaklsn
Grilled Sardines http://eatinwithlynne.blogspot.com/20...
Rice Pudding http://tinyurl.com/qc4pyaa
Maria Eugénia Cerqueira da Mota's Roast Stuffed Turkey http://www.ochef.com/r133.htm
Pao Minho (Minho Provence Rough Country Bread) http://rustychefs.com/feijoada-bean-a...
Mayonnaise http://tinyurl.com/oznks43
Portuguese Chickpea and Spinach Soup http://tinyurl.com/pysq9jc

New Portuguese Table

Milk Liquer http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/20...
Azorean Kale, Sausage and Bean Soup http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/20...
Fried Stuffed Olives http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/20...
‘Russians’ Nut Cake http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/20...
Caldo Verde http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/20...
Curried Mussels http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/20...
Sweet Lemon and Black Olive Wafers http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/20...
Clams in a Cataplana http://familyfoodie.com/join-us-for-s...
Spicy Molasses Cookies http://glutenfreegirl.com/2009/11/the...
Orange Cake http://www.recipegirl.com/2007/09/21/...
Green Olive Dip http://www.recipegirl.com/2007/09/21/...
Black Olive Risotto http://katieatthekitchendoor.com/2011...
Amped-Up Red Pepper Paste http://www.splendidtable.org/recipes/...
Roast Turkey with Two Dressings http://leitesculinaria.com/82912/reci...
Quick Weekday Roast Chicken with Potatoes http://theshiksa.com/2013/03/28/weekn...
Sauteéd Chestnuts, Onions and Bacon http://www.simplyrecipes.com/recipes/...
Baked Custard Tarts http://www.ecoronado.com/profiles/blo...
Punched Potatoes http://www.losgatosfoodie.com/Recipes...
Lemon Mint Chicken Soup http://www.jwmag.org/page.aspx?pid=16...
White Beans and Sausage http://www.thibeaultstable.com/2010/0...
Sausage Tortilla http://doriegreenspan.com/2010/05/sau...
Momma Leite’s Braised Beef in Wine and Garlic http://www.food.com/recipe/momma-leit...
Cheese-Stuffed Pork Tenderloin http://projects.washingtonpost.com/re...
Chilled Fava Bean Soup with Apples http://www.bookendbabes.com/2010/08/2...
Portuguese Corn Bread http://recipes.pgplate.com/food/portu...
Mini-lamb meatballs http://beforeitsnews.com/alternative/...
Pork Tenderloin in a Port-Prune Sauce http://chezus.com/2009/12/01/drinks-d...
White Gazpacho with Crab Salad http://food.mamiverse.com/a-portugues...
Sea Bass with Fennel and Orange http://theglobalkitchen.blogspot.com/...
Spicy Pumpkin Seeds http://www.guideposts.org/inspiration...
Alentegan-Style Pork with Clams http://oregonwinepress.com/article?ar...
Rich Fish Soup http://whatthefig.blogspot.com/2011/1...
Eggs Simmered in Tomato Sauce http://www.post-gazette.com/stories/s...
Fried Cornmeal http://www.projectfoodie.com/spotligh...
Grilled Shrimp with Piri Piri Sauce http://www.savorsa.com/2009/10/portug...
Piri-Piri sauce http://www.savorsa.com/2009/10/portug...
Duck Risotto http://leitesculinaria.com/76141/reci...
Scrambled Eggs with Salt-Cod and Potatoes http://tinyurl.com/6yfbwwf
Salt-Cod and Potato Casserole http://tinyurl.com/owpcw5m

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  1. Thank you BigSal! I especially appreciate links to so many of the recipes that are available online. My library has Leite's book available but Anderson's has a long waiting list (looking your way, any DC hounds!), so that's very helpful.

    1. Thank you BigSal, brilliant job all around!
      Can't wait to dive in.

      1. I'll be out of town but I've copied a few of the on-line recipes which look like they may appeal to my Father (who I'll be cooking for). Fingers crossed!

        1. Thank you, Big Sal! You did a beyond wonderful job with this whole thing :)
          I'm excited to see these books voted as the winners! Since I'll be in Portugal for the first 10 days of the month, I'll lay a little silent, but am excited to bring some of my favorite plates from that trip into my own kitchen!

          2 Replies
          1. re: alliegator

            Lucky you! Be careful what you say here, you may end up with everyone asking if you'll bring them cataplanas!
            You can be our expert when you come home.

            1. re: L.Nightshade

              50 lb. baggage limit folks :P But I'll definitely put up a pic of my spice haul!

          2. Thanks Sal. That's a Hello of a lot of on-line recipes you've garnered. It's going to help me decide if I need the Leite book. I already have the Anderson. Well done you!

            1. Thanks Big Sal, stellar job.

              1. Another thanks for a job very well done BigSal. I gave the Anderson book away during a recent book purge. I'll also be gone or busy for most of the month, but having those links makes it more likely that I'll be able to participate at least a little. My husband has been to Portugal many times (I've been once) and he loves the food so he'll appreciate anything I make!

                1. Big Sal you've taken the COTM to a whole new level, what an incredibly helpful and informative intro to the October COTM.

                  Though I'll be away for 90% of the month, I'll follow along from afar when I can and look forward to cooking from these books (both on my shelf) and adding to the discussion at a later date. While I'm disappointed I won't be able to participate since this looks to be a very exciting month, I feel fortunate that I'll have all of your experiences to guide me when it comes time for me to cook from the book.

                  Cozinhar feliz!!

                  1. Yippee! Cataplanas of the world (well, Portugal anyway) unite!!
                    Big Sal, I do have both books but I find that seeing the list of on-line recipes you compiled for us is really giving me an nice overview of the offerings of each book. VERY helpful in deciding which ones I might want to focus on. Thank you so much.

                    1. thanx Big Sal for your work well done.

                      I just purchased an inexpensive copy of Food of Portugal.
                      I will not be purchasing the other since senior finances is catching up with me.

                      1. If I were to buy one of these, does anyone have a suggestion on which one to get? Leaning towards New Portuguese Table.

                        1. Thanks BigSal! Off to a different continent in October. My Portuguese fish mongers will be thrilled, though technically they are Azorean.

                          1. I didn't realize until just now that there are two different books this month. I don't know much about The New Portuguese Table....can someone who has it tell me a little bit more about it. Already bought the Jean Anderson one based on rave reviews.

                            1 Reply
                            1. re: dkennedy

                              THE NEW PORTUGUESE TABLE: EXCITING FLAVORS FROM EUROPE’S WESTERN COAST from 2009 by David Leite

                              DKennedy, maybe you didn't see this paragraph which BigSal posted at the head of the previous voting thread and which tells you something about it. Apologies if you already saw it and wanted more information!! I have both books and think that they are nicely complementary to each other.

                              The New Portuguese Table by David Leite:
                              “…takes you on a culinary journey into the soul of this fascinating nation and looks at its 11 surprisingly different historical regions, as well as the island of Madeira and the Azores. This book also showcases Portugal's pantry of go-to ingredients, such as smoked sausages, peppers, cilantro, seafood, olive oil, garlic, beans, tomatoes, and bay leaves—all beloved by Americans and now combined in innovative ways…(including) the beloved classics he remembers from cooking at his grandmother’s side, such as Slowly Simmered White Beans and Sausage, as well as modern dishes defining the country today, like Olive Oil–Poached Fresh Cod with Roasted Tomato Sauce.” http://tinyurl.com/kdgrnf6

                            2. I don't own either book, so thanks for the links.

                              1 Reply
                              1. Thank you BigSal!

                                I also wanted to point out for those of you who are trying to resist buying cookbooks, that Anderson's FOP has about 90 pages available via google books: http://books.google.com/books?id=FDpR...

                                I've imported a bunch of BigSal's recipe links into pepperplate, which is what I obsess over when I'm holding firm on not buying cookbooks.

                                We love love love Anderson's Caldo Verde at our house (it's the only time i've been able to persuade my husband to adore kale), so we'll make that at least once next month!

                                And here are a couple more recipes I found for Anderson's book (though I have not compared them to the book to confirm they have not been changed), plus a couple of duplicates of the recipes BigSal linked except that the versions I'm linking will import directly into pepperplate:

                                As an aside, Sara Moulton sure uses a lot of Jean Anderson recipes on her show...

                                Sweet red pepper paste (Massa de pimentão)

                                Fresh figs with smoked cured ham (Figos com presunto)

                                Ginger Cake: Bolo do Gengibre

                                Caramelized Flan from Pinhao

                                Green Bean Soup with Mint:

                                Green Beans with Coriander and Garlic (this one will import directly to Pepperplate)

                                Clams in a Cataplana Casa Velha (will import directly into PP):

                                Enca Mello's Creamed Salt Cod (will import directly into pepperplate)

                                And this is a Jean Anderson Portuguese recipe, but it's from Process This!, not FOP:

                                Portuguese Farm Bread

                                And, this Cheese Wafer recipe attributed to Jean Anderson seems to have the same ingredients EYB lists for Rosinha Santos's cheese wafers (Biscoitos de queijo da Rosinha Santos, so I wonder if it's the same:

                                Same with these Ferreira's Olive Oil Sauteed Almonds

                                And not attributed to Jean Anderson, but I think this is her recipe Roast Stuffed Chicken in the Old Portuguese Manner. He just had someone rewrite it ever so slightly... (And, comparing Emeril's sanitized version of the recipes vs. the recipes I can see in google books, I am reminded why a cookbook is so much more than a mere collection of recipes.)


                                As is the putrid cake. http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/em...

                                And probably the Caldo Verde from the same episode:


                                2 Replies
                                1. re: The Dairy Queen

                                  TDQ, I totally know it's not traditional, but what do you think about pureeing the kale along with the potatoes for the caldo verde? It's hard to imagine my 3 year old agreeing to eat those long shreds of green kale!

                                  1. re: Westminstress

                                    Interesting idea. It's certainly worth a try, though my toddler often totally surprises me with a sudden love for a vegetable I didn't predict.

                                    eta: p.s. it's the little bits of sausage that I hope lure him to try the dish.


                                2. comment

                                  in previous months 2 books were suggested but not voted on-

                                  why this month???

                                  3 Replies
                                  1. re: jpr54_1

                                    I'm not sure what happened in previous months, but with these two books, they were specifically nominated and voted on as a pair. we've cooked from pairs of thematically related books pretty often in the past (spanish month, japanese month, vietnamese month, etc.).

                                    1. re: jpr54_1

                                      I don't know what month you are referring to specifically, as last month I don't see much in the way of paired books. Maybe the two books you're talking about just didn't receive enough votes or nominations? But Westminstress is right, there have been quite a few months where a book pairing came out on top.

                                      1. re: jpr54_1

                                        JPR, in the past I have said I prefer a one book COTM and yet this month I voted for the pair. Sometimes it just seems like an interesting thing to do, i.e. two different takes on the same cuisine. In this case the Anderson book more or less focuses on classic Portuguese food whereas David Leite brings the cuisine forward into our contemporary world.

                                        Presently, I own "The Food of Portugal" and have yet to buy "The New Portuguese Table" but perhaps I don't need to since there are so many on-line recipes. But you know me. No self discipline.

                                      2. Thank you, BigSal. I didn't vote as I owned only one book and was determined not to buy another, but lo and behold the book I own is one of the winners and you and TDQ have provided so many links to the other I may be able to hold fast to my resolve.

                                        1. I was lucky to be able to review David Leite's book when it came out a couple of years ago. We really enjoyed all the dishes I made from it.

                                          Since I won't be able to cook along this coming month, if anyone in New York wants to borrow my book to cook from, I'd be willing to loan it out.

                                          1. Looking through NPT, piri-piri sauce is in a lot of recipes and takes about a week to make. Think I'll grab some peppers and get that going now.

                                            3 Replies
                                              1. re: Aravisea

                                                Thanks for that note Aravisea. A friend of mine just returned from Portugal and brought me some Piri-Piri sauce. I won't be around but for a couple of days in Oct so I may very well be cooking from this book in Nov. with the benefit of all your experiences.

                                                1. re: Aravisea

                                                  Great tip Aravisea!
                                                  I ordered NPT from Amazon seven days ago, and it still shows as not yet shipped. I guess that's the punishment for free shipping. I'll get started on the piri-piri sauce in the meantime. Thanks!

                                                2. I tried to get a library copy yesterday of the Leite book and they are all out. Thanks for all the links--I'll start here.

                                                  1. Also from The Splendid Table, an Leite interview focusing on milk mayo


                                                    1 Reply
                                                    1. re: paulj

                                                      That's fascinating, Paul! Thanks for posting that.

                                                    2. Am I missing something? I don't see the Chapters' links anywhere.

                                                      3 Replies
                                                        1. re: greedygirl

                                                          Thanks GG. Just FYI, It is not attached to the COTM archive. When you click on this month's discussion at the top of the archive, this is the thread that comes up, instead of the one with the actual chapters. Someone should fix this (not sure who does that).

                                                      1. Just got the book today, 11 days from Amazon to the door. Stuff always used to come in two days. Are they slowed down now to encourage people to purchace other shipping options, like Amazon Prime?

                                                        Anyway, LOTS of dishes I can't wait to jump into. Even given our recent dietary directives, and restriction, still plenty of food with which we can happily partake. Yay!

                                                        I knew there was a reason I had salt cod in my freezer. Yay again!

                                                        1 Reply
                                                        1. I just obtained both books from the library and hope to be cooking soon!

                                                          1. my copy of the food of portugal arrived this morning-
                                                            i need to look at the recipes this afternoon

                                                            1. I just got my books yesterday from the library hold program, so will look through them and figure out some goodies to cook - excited!

                                                              1. I'm a little confused by the Bacon from Heaven link. The link is for a torte (almond, pureed winter squash, marzipan, egg primary ingredients). No bacon or anything remotely baconlike...Is this the same recipe as in the book?

                                                                8 Replies
                                                                1. re: meatn3

                                                                  Yes, it is. Jean Anderson says in the head note that while some say the recipe originated in a convent, a "pharmacist and culinary historian" named Maria Eugénia de Castro Cerqueira da Mota insists that it is from a town near her own, and was originally made with bacon fat, "which accounts in part for the recipe's unusual name (the flavor explains the rest)."

                                                                  Incidentally, the link omits the instruction to sprinkle the top with 1 T. sugar and an optional 1 T. finely minced blanched almonds before baking.

                                                                  1. re: Caitlin McGrath

                                                                    Thank you! The story definitely helps the recipe name make sense!

                                                                  2. re: meatn3

                                                                    It is a smidgen different [no of eggs] but has no bacon. The headnotes explain that the next town over from the one she learned this recipe from, used bacon fat in the recipe giving it the unusual name. Hope that helps.

                                                                    1. re: smtucker

                                                                      Ya'll are great! I appreciate such quick answers.

                                                                      I'm just really in a bacon sort of mood and that title, well, it was hard to resist following the link!

                                                                      I don't think the torte will be made in casa meatn3. That's a lot for a house of one.

                                                                      1. re: meatn3

                                                                        Then you probably won't be needing a paraphrase of the second version in the book, which uses 20 egg yolks!

                                                                    2. re: meatn3

                                                                      The recipe is the same as version one in the book, except that the book uses 2 jumbo eggs instead of 3. The Spanish have a dessert with the same name, Tocino del Cielo, that is a very rich custard, but does not contain the squash (or bacon).

                                                                      1. re: BigSal


                                                                        If only all the mysteries in my life were resolved so quickly!


                                                                    3. more recipes

                                                                      Saveur Magazine #160
                                                                      page 80
                                                                      The Food I Dream of
                                                                      by Jean Anderson
                                                                      and beautiful photographs by Todd Coleman