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Sep 12, 2013 03:14 PM

The Everything sandwich at Bar Tartine's Sandwich Shop [San Francisco]

The Sandwich Shop at Bar Tartine launched a little over a year ago, and while it's one of those places I've had on my midbrain list to try, it took me till today to show up. This is a limited rave for the so-called Everything sandwich, but a rave nonetheless. Here's where the rave begins.

The "everything" in the name refers to the everything bagel, but this is on sliced Tartine country bread: house-cured lox (really lightly cured, beautifully tender, red-fleshed salmon, king probably), and tangy housemade quark, and then the thing that gives the everything is name—a mix of crunchy, seedlike little things vaguely like the stuff that coats its namesake bagel. Crunchy fried onions, semicrisp little French lentils, and I don't know what else (I was too into eating it).
This is sandwich making as a detailed craft, where flavor and texture are equally important. Really skilled work.

And then, on a sunny afternoon in the Mission, the place felt really charming, like a place you'd stumble on in Amsterdam, partly open to Valencia Street with its tourists and locals, the rustic woody-ness of Tartine's interior, and the bar with its roster of five drafts (I drank a black lager from Linden Street in Oakland, a revival of a San Francisco steam beer). It can be hard to get excited about sandwiches, but the Everything is a sandwich with excitement built in. Can't wait to go back and try the next one on the list. (Keep in mind, the Sandwich Shop at Bar Tartine is open W-F only, and only during lunchtime.)

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  1. Wonderfully rendered review.

    If this is a "limited rave," what would it take to be full-throttle? Or is the answer in the next paragraph, that sandwiches don't generate the buzz of other fare?

    Reading this @ 3 pm made me rue the fact that I'm too late to get one today!

    1 Reply
    1. re: sundeck sue

      What sue said. Well done. Making me move the Tartine Sandwich Bar back up the list for November.

      I've wanted to try a proper steam draft beer since my 19th c US lit course in undergrad, so thanks for that tip as well. Is it served room temp?

      "It was Sunday, and, according to his custom on that day, McTeague took his dinner at two in the afternoon at the car conductors' coffee-joint on Polk Street. He had a thick gray soup; heavy, underdone meat, very hot, on a cold plate; two kinds of vegetables; and a sort of suet pudding, full of strong butter and sugar. On his way back to his office, one block above, he stopped at Joe Frenna's saloon and bought a pitcher of steam beer. It was his habit to leave the pitcher there on his way to dinner."

      from McTeague by Frank Norris