Week in Rome - feedback please
Long time reader, first time poster here (maybe second time). I'm planning a third trip to Rome with my sis, and would love some input on my current plan. We're calling this the Tour de Pizza, but we will try other things, too :)
We'll be in Rome during the second week of November, and have rented an apartment in Monti. We prefer places that are not fussy with a convivial spirit.
Fri, arrive late afternoon
Dinner: Pizzeria Le Carrete (seemed a good idea as not far from our apartment, in case we are late or super tired)
Lunch: L'Asino D'oro (visiting Galleria Doria Pamphiljj afterward)
Dinner: TBD; may do Vinoroma tasting first, or perhaps Rosicoli Wine+Food tasting
Lunch: Taverna dei Fori Imperiali
Dinner: thought we'd venture to Pigneto for aperitivo at Necci dal 1924 and then Il Porchettoni for some porchetta
Lunch: Gaudeo for panini (Palazzo Valentini afterward)
Dinner: I'd like to try Porto Fluviale. It looks like a fun place, and I like the idea of sampling a bunch of small plates. (I'd also like to work in a trip to Macro Testaccio beforehand. If so, this would switch to Wed)
Lunch: Pizzarium before a visit to St Peters and maybe the Trionfale market, not necessarily in that order
Dinner: Trattoria Monti (a friend insisted we try here as it's her favorite, but I'm a bit ambiavalent towards it. May be nice to be moderately close to the apartment after Vatican day, which can be tiring)
Testaccio Market, lunch stop at Mordi e Vai. We'd like to try the trippa panino ...
We may choose to share and make that a snack (trippa for breakfast? maybe), walk around to see the Protestant Cemetery and poke into Volpetti or just walk around, and maybe have lunch at Flavio al Velavevodetto
Dinner: Trastevere night -- thought we could check out Ma Che Siete Venuti A Fa' and/or Bir and Fud for a beer (wine break), then pizza at Dar Poeta, Ai Marmi or Gatta Mangiano or go back closer to "home" for Il rione? This may flop with Monday
Leaving this day a bit loose, so we can shop (our souveniers tend to be food-related and often chocolate; we had more chocolate than clothes in our bags after a trip to Torino) and visit any of the (many) churches on my list that we've not visited prior
Lunch: we may try to do a Roscioli vs Forno pizza-off, if we still want pizza at this point...
Dinner: Armando al Pantheon for gnocchi (we're going to an concert at a church near Piazza Navona prior)
Things I can't seem to fit in that I'd like to: Cesare Caseletto or Osteria Monteverde
A visit/meal in Prati. We got lost here after our last trip, and loved the look and feel. Maybe there's an enoteca/cafe stop we can take a break at following our St Peter's visit?
This was wordy, sorry. Thoughts for improvement?
Wow! I want to copy and paste this to just hand over to others as an example of a pretty great culinary itinerary! You have certainly done your research, brava.
Here are some comments/answers:
Porto Fluviale: Make sure you reserve and sit in the trattoria part. The pizzeria part is ok, but not up to par with your other pizza experiences.
Trattoria Monti: Still good, and definitely walkable from Monti. Another option is Danilo, a bit further walk. Somehow, with the other things you've picked, I think you might enjoy it more. If you do go, make sure you get their house mixed antipasto.
Trastevere Night: Gatta Mangiona is definitely worth the visit, but you'd have to take the tram up there from Trastevere, since it's in Monteverde. Alternatively this could be your Osteria Monteverdi night? Or Cesare? Both easily reachable from Trastevere by Tram.
Prati: Sorpasso. A great place to stop for a drink or coffee. It's full up for meals, but a real hang out for locals at other times of the day.
Thanks so much for the reply. I have tried to strike a balance with a mix of 'street'/casual with restaurant meals, so I appreciate your compliment!
Sorpasso seems like the perfect spot for an after-Vatican break, and I do want to work in a visit to Monteverde, so also a good suggestion to work our way in that direction after Trastevere. There are so many good options (!), we can always wait to see what our mood is after the weekend before deciding and making a rez somewhere. Again, many thanks!
Elizabeth, both TM and Danilo are on my list for the next 10 days but the schedule's getting a bit crowded and I might have to jettison something.....given the OP has named many restaurants that I have either already visited or intend to, what's your call on the differences between TM and D?
In my opinion, and not only mine, Danilo would be the one to drop. Way too expensive for what it is and no better than any decent trattoria anywhere in Rome. I dragged my Roman husband there once, and he hated it. Trattoria Monti -- though not my favorite place, we do go there with some frequency (it fills a need) -- has a more pleasant atmosphere, friendlier staff, better and more interesting food, and a fairer price-quality ratio.
I would drop Taverna Monti. I don't agree with Maureen, I think Danilo is really great. Monti is a bit more 'sophisticated' but I like the roughness of Danilo, and I do think their food is excellent.
But as Maureen points out, the staff at Monti is super friendly, and I do love some of their signature dishes, like the sformati and the tortelloni with the egg yolk in the middle.
I vote for Trattoria Monti - their cuisine is from the Marche so its a little different - not more cacio e pepe and such. I think you will have plenty of cucina romana elsewhere. Their signature dishes are good and go for their daily specials - I had a superb porcini and sweetbread dish there. We had a few gripes with service - lunchtime, mostly regulars, we felt a service differential, but not enough to offset the quality of the cooking and Ive not heard the same from others we recommended Monti to.
re: jen kalb
Oh.....what to do???!!
I have now dropped both, and put in (locally) L'Asino D'Oro and a return visit (for me at least) to Taverna Dei Fori Imperiali...both of which I know also attract mixed receptions.
I guess we could go to both for lunch? But apart from a night at S'Forno, we are having big dinners so I just wouldn't be able to cope....