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Aug 12, 2004 09:01 AM

Maurice Pylant's Western Kitchen in Glenrose: Anyone Been?

  • j

Ten or so years ago this was the source for the best brisket I've ever had. I haven't returned since that one time. I also have never seen it mentioned on here but I just found it listed on

Has anyone been?

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  1. No but I'm driving from Dallas to Austin next week and Glenrose might make a nice detour. So maybe I'll check it out. Btw I've heard that there's a conference center/resort near there that has a really good restaurant.

    6 Replies
    1. re: john clark

      I stopped in Glenrose because of a place Hammond's that was featured in an early edition of Jane and Michael Stern's Roadfood. I had a brisket sandwich, couple of ribs and left disappointed. On the way out of Glenrose I saw the Western Kitchen and the parking lot was filled while Hammond's had been almost empty. Curious, I stopped in and got a brisket sandwich to go. I took my first bite after leaving the lot and, 100 yards down the road pulled over to have a second. I ended up throwing away the roll, ate the rest of the beef and drove back and got a half pound of brisket to go. To this day it still is the best I have ever had. I remember asking the pit man how long he smoked it and he said 30 hours. But the "streak" at the edge of the beef must have been 1/3 inch thick, almost a kind of crust if you will. Even Luling's, Clark's, Louie Mueller's didn't have quite the same outside texture. I remember that night I went to Ruth's Chris for a business dinner and thought that the Western Kitchen's brisket was better, even much better. Much could have happened in ten years but seeing it listed on the other website absolutely intrigues me. If you stop please report. Thanks.

      1. re: Joe H.

        I'll check it out on Monday. It's on Hwy 67, right?
        I might not get onto the Internet until the following weekend. Email me with contact info if you're coming through Texas sooner than that.

        1. re: john clark

          Well, I just went to Dixie Dining and called the phone number listed for it's been disconnected. I called information and they have no listing. Apparently it is no longer in business or the name has changed. My apologies, I should have called the phone number before my original post.

          1. re: Joe H.

            Maurice died and it closed 10 years ago.

            1. re: buck

              Thank you very much.

      2. re: john clark

        The conference center/resort is Rough Creek Lodge, and yes, they do have excellent food. When we were there in May, they were serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. We were always too full for lunch, but the other meals were outstanding. It had just changed hands (at least partially, anyway, with the former owner no longer involved in day-to-day management) so I don't know how/if that will affect operations.

      3. Many years ago I got a call from Maurice who wanted to participate in an investment with me. After talking for a while we developed a friendship and he overnighted some brisket to Alexandria, VA. It was the best brisket ever made. It was so good that my staff and I flew to Texas two weeks later to meet Maurice at his restaurant and experienced his restaurant and beef fresh from the kitchen. I have eaten BBQ all over the world and his was definitely the best.

        The texture and flavor came from perfect smoking at the ideal temperature for many hours. The seasoning was perfect and the brisket was the highest quality beef available. Maurice was a stand up guy who knew how to deliver an amazing product along with great homespun stories. I am glad that I and my staff had the opportunity to know and break bread with him. Heaven's occupants are enjoying the best BBQ ever.

        1. Maurice was my grandfather. Our family used to call him BawBaw because my sister couldn't say PawPaw, so it stuck with him throughout the remainder of his life. He was such a great grandfather and loved his restaurant. His BBQ was simply amazing. I remember as a child he would wake up multiple times during the night and check on his brisket. He was also pretty famous for his ribeye steaks. There are some people in this world that have a knack for cooking and he was one of them. I remember Tommy Lee Jones would frequent his restaurant. Nobody was ever a stranger to BawBaw and he just loved sitting there talking to his customers. He passed away in 1996 and was a true connoisseur of bbq.