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2 Weeks in Paris, restaurant list critique needed

n
nomadyl Sep 1, 2013 06:03 PM

Hello fellow chowhounders, going to be in Paris for 2 weeks in Oct. with wifey for our much needed getaway. We are in our 30's and its been almost 2 years since our last stay. This time we are staying in northern Marais (Temple/Filles du Calvaire). We're definitely excited and have put together a list below based on our research. We are trying to get a balance of the staples and the new, and we tend to do the heavier stuff for lunch. Looking forward to your opinions, suggestions, and recommendations:

10/04 - La Regalade St Honore (dinner)
10/05 - Bones (dinner)
10/06 - Jeanne A (lunch),
Le Mary Celeste (dinner)
10/07 - Pirouette (dinner)
10/08 - La Pantruche (lunch)
10/09 - Chez Paul (lunch)
10/10 - Le Chateaubriand (dinner)
10/11 - Le 6 Paul Bert (lunch)
10/12 - A Priori The (lunch),
Verjus (dinner)
10/13 - Versailles Picnic
10/14 - Josephine Chez Dumonet (lunch)
10/15 - Ze Kitchen Galerie (lunch), L'Avant Comptoir (dinner)
10/16 - Septime (dinner)
10/17 - Chez Georges (lunch)

  1. n
    Nancy S. Sep 1, 2013 07:33 PM

    I'm a fan of Mary Celeste, but only for pre-dinner drinks and oysters (in the appropriate season, for them).

    3 Replies
    1. re: Nancy S.
      n
      nomadyl Sep 2, 2013 05:44 AM

      Nancy S. - thanks for the tips! We were planning to do a light dinner there (the small plates menu looked interesting), so maybe an actual dinner place afterwards instead?

      1. re: nomadyl
        k
        Kelly Sep 2, 2013 09:34 AM

        We loved the small plates on our visit in July. Still dreaming of the devilled eggs and Thai-flavoured endive. You can certainly plan a late dinner afterward...but don't be surprised if you end up hooked on the ambiance and the cocktails and just order second helpings. :o)

        1. re: Kelly
          n
          nomadyl Sep 2, 2013 10:46 AM

          Kelly - nice. Your experience is exactly what we hope will happen :)

    2. John Talbott Sep 2, 2013 12:21 AM

      List looks fine; good research.
      I don't know A Priori or Chez Paul but others are fine.

      7 Replies
      1. re: John Talbott
        n
        nomadyl Sep 2, 2013 06:08 AM

        John T. - first just wanted to give you a big kiss and say thank you! Your blog has been an invaluable guidance for us throughout our last 3 trips to Paris (4th this time)...well and countless sleepless nights of fantasies :)
        A Priori The is situated in Galerie Vivienne - we've always dreamt of dining under such settings, at least once. Will probably switch Chez Paul to Le Repaire de Cartouche based on Parnassien's comments. There are 2 addresses - rue Amelot and bd des filles du calvaires - which one should we go to?

        1. re: nomadyl
          John Talbott Sep 2, 2013 07:34 AM

          The addresses for the Repaire are the same; one is the lower salle, the other the upper.

          1. re: John Talbott
            n
            nomadyl Sep 2, 2013 08:03 AM

            Ah I see - thanks for pointing it out - was too excited :p

          2. re: nomadyl
            Parigi Sep 2, 2013 11:45 AM

            I so want A Priori Thé to work, because indeed the setting is so enchanting, but unfortunately like many eateries in enchanting setting, the owners seem to focus solely on paying rent and make no effort otherwise.
            First of all there is no "dining". Its salad-y lunch ranges from tasteless to downhill from tasteless. Its pastries are so dry last time they gave me a sore throat.
            If you go, eat first.

            1. re: Parigi
              n
              nomadyl Sep 2, 2013 06:56 PM

              Parigi - thanks for the heads up.

          3. re: John Talbott
            mangeur Sep 2, 2013 08:10 AM

            "I don't know A Priori or..."

            I didn't either. So, thanks, nomadyl, for educating both of us:

            http://apriorithe.com/

            1. re: mangeur
              n
              nomadyl Sep 2, 2013 10:53 AM

              Mangeur - no problem. I'm glad I can contribute in any minute way possible. Just to point out, we have never actually dined there before, always walked past there when we're wondering about in the neighborhood. There were always something, maybe the setting...the lighting...the smell...which makes us wonder...and we finally decided to take the plunge this time :)

          4. Parnassien Sep 2, 2013 01:57 AM

            Agree with Talbott le Vénérable... a very good list. My only quibbles: my two meals at Verjus were somewhat disappointing ... food was overly fussy and the clientèle was 90% Anglo-Saxon... in any case, I seem to remember it is closed on Saturday when you have scheduled it; Chateaubriand is an excellent example of culinary creativity but often misses the mark ... and I no longer enjoy the clientèle and the very earnest vibe... for me, the satellite Le Dauphin is a bit more enjoyable foodwise; and Chez Paul (the one in the 11th) is ok but somewhat cliché... it was once very good but now qualifies as a sort of has-been.

            I'm also a bit surprised that your list is kinda short of places in the Haut-Marais and adjacent Oberkampf. Both quartiers are full of excellent choices as well as great strolling territory. Dispensing with the hassle of métro or taxi and instead sandwich your meal with apéros and digestifs at nearby cafés might be a wee bit more convenient and enjoyable than flitting off elsewhere for your meals. For restaurants, have a look at Ober-Salé on the rue Oberkampf in the 11th, Pierre Sang (no rezzies so best for a 7pm or 10pm meal with little waiting) on the rue Oberkampf, le Taxi Jaune on the rue Chapon in the 3rd, and (for a light and simple seafood meal) l'Ilot on the rue de la Corderie in the 11th. For bars/ cafés, Le Progrès on the rue de Bretagne/ rue Vieille du Temple in the 3rd, Le Charlot on the rue de Bretagne, Le Sancerre on the rue de Bretagne/ rue des Archives, the speakeasy bar behind Candelaria taqueria on the rue de Saintonge, le Barav wine-bar on the rue Charles-François Dupuis in the 3rd, Le Démon cocktail bar above Beaucoup restaurant on the rue Froissart in the 3rd, and L'Entrée des Artistes on the rue Crussol in the 11th.

            8 Replies
            1. re: Parnassien
              n
              nomadyl Sep 2, 2013 06:36 AM

              Parnassien - duly noted. Your comments confirms some of our suspicions and friends' experiences as well. What do you think about Saturne/Pierre Sang as a sub for Verjus/Chateaubriand? We also really want to squeeze Philou in, worth it? Thank you so much for all the recs - our plan was to use the free times (meals not listed) to explore our immediate neighborhood. Wifey loves Le Barav, l'llot, and L'Ober Sale! What boulangerie would you recommend in the area?

              1. re: nomadyl
                Parnassien Sep 2, 2013 03:55 PM

                Re boulangeries and pâtisseries.
                134 RDT @ (surprise) 134 rue de Turenne is probably the Haut-Marais' best for traditional baguettes and croissants. Fougasse on rue de Bretagne specializes in provençal bread (sorta like Italian foccaccia) but better known for its pastries these days... long lines at weekends... but don't expect smiling service or helpfulness. The very expensive and very good Jacques Genin on the rue de Turenne for millefeuilles and caramels... also salon de thé from (?) 11am. La Petite Fabrique inside the Marché des Enfants Rouges on Sundays only (from 10:30am)... great line of homemade savoury and sweet pastries... I have a crush on the delightful owner/ baker.

                And speaking of love, the little triangle north of the Square du Temple and formed by the boulevard du Temple, rue du Temple and Place de la République is adorable. It's here you find Le Barav, I'Ilot, Aller-et-Retour grillade, Café Crème, the historic épicerie Goumanyat, and Mary Gelateria (my #1 for ice cream in Paris). And for a stroll or mid-week picnic with the fixings picked up in the Marché des Enfants Rouges and rue de Bretagne shops, the Square du Temple is idyllic... but can get way too crowded at weekends when the weather is good.

                1. re: Parnassien
                  n
                  nomadyl Sep 2, 2013 07:14 PM

                  Parnassien - thanks again. Have bookmarked all your recs above. Our place is right by Square du Temple, can't wait to explore the lovely neighborhood. So much to do, so little time :)

              2. re: Parnassien
                John Talbott Sep 2, 2013 07:36 AM

                I will second Parnassien the Younger on the superiority of Le Dauphin over Chateaubriand except for the stools.

                1. re: John Talbott
                  mangeur Sep 2, 2013 07:53 AM

                  We had a table at Le Dauphin. In the far northwest corner; out of the way and quiet enough for conversation. The food was okay but nothing I'd return for.

                  1. re: John Talbott
                    n
                    nomadyl Sep 2, 2013 10:43 AM

                    John T./Mangeur - great, thank you for your insights.

                    1. re: nomadyl
                      John Talbott Sep 2, 2013 11:53 AM

                      "John T./Mangeur - great, thank you for your insights."
                      We old guys and old girls and even a young spry like Parnassien, live to serve. On behalf of all the regulars here I want to (1) thank you for doing your research so we don't have to regurg the SOS, (2) commend you on your wisdom which of course accords with our prejudices and (3) remind you that the pay-back is feed back. What was up to expectation, what did we steer you wrong about and what did you find that's not on the CH/NYT Top Picks (such as A Priori or Chez Paul)?
                      Happy eating. Happy Rentree. Bring sweaters.

                      1. re: John Talbott
                        n
                        nomadyl Sep 2, 2013 07:01 PM

                        John T. - you are too kind. Will definitely return with a summary of our experience :)

                2. n
                  nomadyl Sep 2, 2013 07:26 PM

                  Thank you all for sharing your wisdom. Revised list below. Any thoughts on Le Repaire de Cartouche (dinner) or Chez Michel (dinner)?

                  10/04 - La Regalade St Honore (dinner)
                  10/05 - Bones (dinner)
                  10/06 - Jeanne A (lunch),
                  Le Mary Celeste (dinner)
                  10/07 - Pirouette (dinner)
                  10/08 - La Pantruche (lunch)
                  10/09 - Saturne (lunch)
                  10/10 - Le Repaire de Cartouche (dinner) or Chez Michel (dinner)
                  10/11 - Le 6 Paul Bert (lunch), Le Barav (dinner)
                  10/12 - A Priori The (lunch),
                  Pierre Sang (dinner)
                  10/13 - Versailles Picnic
                  10/14 - Josephine Chez Dumonet (lunch)
                  10/15 - Ze Kitchen Galerie (lunch), L'Avant Comptoir (dinner)
                  10/16 - Septime (dinner)
                  10/17 - Chez Georges (lunch)

                  1. s
                    startsev Sep 3, 2013 06:55 PM

                    My husband and I will be in Paris during the same time period for four nights- first time for both of us. I write a restaurant review blog and food is a primary reason for our visit. I am also planning meals at Septime, Le Chateaubriand, Ze Kitchen Galerie, and need one more restaurant for dinner. Can anyone help with something I shouldn't miss? also need lunches for Sat, and Sun near Versailles. Am going to do a food tour on Monday. rather than starting a new thread I thought I would just glom on to this one!

                    2 Replies
                    1. re: startsev
                      John Talbott Sep 4, 2013 12:49 AM

                      Check out what we've written about Versailles already. (Bottom line, just Gordon Ramsay's "second" restaurant, the Veranda at the Trianon Palace Hotel.)

                      1. re: startsev
                        Parnassien Sep 4, 2013 10:47 AM

                        Maybe a new thread would be better. Lots of people will miss your post tacked on at the end of this one

                        Your choices are pretty much clustered in a very narrow "modern French" band of the Paris restaurant spectrum. It's my preferred style of cuisine as well but it does become somewhat déjà-vu-ish as a daily diet. I for one need my regular dose of bistro/ classic/ trad cooking and, just as importantly, a change of style and vibe from the usual sleek feel of the hip and creative New French restos. Fortunately (or unfortunately for FOMO-types), there are literally hundreds of excellent choices. Where are you staying? Given the abundance of quality in Paris, convenience should not be disregarded.

                        Re Versailles,
                        http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/9093...

                      2. b
                        bauskern Feb 13, 2014 04:27 PM

                        Was there ever a follow-up as to the trip/meals and how things went?

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