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Aug 30, 2013 06:29 PM

Hakka Cheong Fun

I have a craving for Cheong Fun like they used to make at New South Wind at 21 Division Street. It's the kind that's a big fat roll with dried shrimp, minced pork, scallions and sesame seeds. Eaten with a good splash of Trappey's Red Devil hot sauce. I've had Cheong Fun at a couple of other places since New South Wind closed a few years ago, but it's not nearly as good. Can anyone recommend a place to get Cheong Fun that close to what New South Wind used to make? I miss New South Wind!!!

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  1. Kong Kee Food Corp, 240 Grand Street @ Bowery, sells it hot inside and cold outside by the pound for like $1.50/lb. or less. There's also a food cart right there as well that sells it for a buck.

    I've never been to New South Wind., this might be a crapshoot.

    2 Replies
    1. re: fourunder

      Thanks for this post, marzipan. I miss Souuth Wind so much as well. Nice change from normal dim sum in Chinatown for lunch - I'll just get a cheong fun, some steamed dumplings or tofu, and maybe split some beef chow fun (which I thought was tasty).

      Fourunder - will check out your suggestion.

      1. re: fourunder

        Thats not the same kind the OP was looking for. Im sure if you google NSW, images of the legendary cheong fun will turn up in the searches. It was the best ever!!

      2. I think finding anything Hakka in Manhattan is a longshot. Perhaps Flushing might be a better bet since today's Hakka food seems to be coming via Taiwan.

        11 Replies
        1. re: Chandavkl

          I am not so sure about that - the Hakka diaspora is found all over the world.

          1. re: scoopG

            Was referring to the presence of Hakka food in the U.S. A few bastions over the decades from Hakka immigrants from southern China. However, now we're seeing new Hakka and Hakka influenced restaurants in Taiwanese American communities where the Hakka are a significant minority.

            1. re: Chandavkl

              What exactly is Hakka cuisine and how does it differ from other southeast Chinese cuisines?

              New South Wind, other than the cheong fun, had very Cantonese dishes on the menu - your normal "stuff" like pork chops over rice and noodles like beef chow fun.

              1. re: deepfry7

                I just want to find a place that makes good Hakka Cheong Fun like they used to make at New South Wind! Anyone, anyone?? At all?

                As for Hakka cuisine, I'm not an ethnographer, but my maternal grandparents were Hakka and many of the people who worked at New South Wind had a Hakka accent like my grandparents did. My mother used to tell me that typical Hakka dishes include: the braised, stuffed tofu, the siu gao (boiled dumplings with the thin wrapper), and the Cheong Fun (different from chee cheong, which is the thinner rice rolls that you can find sold at many food carts in Chinatown where they heap it with peanut sauce, hoisin sauce and hot sauce).

                For more background on the Hakka people, you can take a look at:

                They were a nomadic people who settled in many different places, which included southern China near Guangdong and Fujian. Apparently, there were Hakka people who migrated to India, Singapore, Malaysia, Taiwan, etc.

                Back to my original question, where can I buy good Hakka Cheong Fun? Pretty please? :)

                1. re: marzipan727

                  Actually I'm curious where you even found the dish.

                  1. re: marzipan727

                    I am too, marzipan. I am too...

                    FYI, there's a small bakery on Grand and Elizabeth called Ho Won Bake Shop that sells it. But I don't it's close in quality to South Wind - hence I didn't initially mention it.

                    Someone has a picture on Yelp of the cheong fun:


                    1. re: deepfry7

                      Thanks, deepfry7! I'll check out the cheong fun at Ho Won next time I'm nearby. I know of another bakery right by the East Broadway F Station that sells the cheong fun in the mornings. They're not nearly as good as the ones that NSW used to make either, which is why I posted here asking for recommendations. It used to be called Sun Light Bakery, but changed its name awhile ago. I can't remember the new name. Their cheong fun is not as thick and not as fresh as NSW's cheong fun. Sometimes, they're a little dry near the edges.

                      scoopG - I was in SF in July. Wish I knew about that Hakka restaurant then! Oh well, maybe next time. Had lots of good eats in the Bay area, so shouldn't complain! :)

                      1. re: marzipan727

                        < It used to be called Sun Light Bakery, but changed its name awhile ago. I can't remember the new name. >

                        Happy Star. I love that place. But I am not a connoisseur of cheung fun; I pretty much like it wherever I have it.

                  2. re: deepfry7

                    The Hakka are a nomadic Chinese ethnic group that migrated within China, finally settling in areas of southern China (Fujian and Guangdong provinces) and around the world. Linda Lau Anusasananan (link to her cookbook below) estimates that there are some 75 million Hakka today. As the Hakka moved they adopted and adapted wherever they went. Essentially it is hearty and simple fare: dishes like Eight Jewels Stuffed Duck, Salt Baked Chicken and more.




                  3. re: Chandavkl

                    Like this place in San Francisco?


                    Only known Hakka restaurant in the USA that I know of...

                    1. re: scoopG

                      There's Hakka Express is the Dallas suburb of Plano, which has a thriving Taiwanese population. In addition, some of the Taiwanese restaurants in Los Angeles have Hakka dishes, presumably reflecting the particular owner's Hakka origins.