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Burgundy trip

Traveling to Burgundy in Sept. Staying in Marigny Le Cahouet. Looking for suggestions of WIne Shops, boutique vintners,etc. that we should try to visit. We know(and have tried) most of the big imported names, both Red and White. Looking for the unique and special. Any help would be appreciated

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  1. Halfway between Chablis and the Cote d'Or.

    Love the wines of Dom Rapet Père et fils in Pernard-Vergelesses and anything from Vincent Girardin (whose wines were avilable at the coop? in Chassagne-Montrachet when I was there during the 2007 harvest). The two vintners from whom I will soon re-order reds.

    Also, if you liked honeyed, minerally Chardonnay, young Stéphane Aladame makes excellent Montagny down in Buxy.

    2 Replies
    1. re: collioure

      Girardine does some very good wines, and they are usually at fair prices (even in the US). A good rec.!

      Hunt

      1. re: collioure

        BTW I used the advice of Clive Coates to direct me to the best producers in a number of Burgundy villages. I am always willng to buy even without tasting on the basis of professionals with more discerning palates than mine.

        Even here in Roussillon I do that, tasting only wines that will be new to my cave or when the vintage has changed. More and more I buy from vintners here in whom I have great confidence.

        It was that way in Burgundy. During the harvest one couln't taste much and I didn't need to. You may be there under similar condtions. So bring a list of wines that in advance you think you'd like to buy. I expect harvests will be on the late side this year in France.

        Are you going to be able to keep your wine cool enough until you get it home?

      2. I highly recommend that you stop by the Colin "boys'" wineries, Bruno, Phillippe, Marc - great Montrachets. Call ahead, as we missed Bruno, but his lovely daughter was a gracious host.

        I would make sure to schedule Jos. Drouhin, plus Clos Vougeot.

        Just returned from 10 wonderful days, and we never left the Côte de Beaune/Côte de Nuits, except for a quick trip to Dijon, for mustard.

        We stayed a bit out, at the Abbaye de la Bussiere, which was worth the trip - on its own!

        Enjoy and travel safely.

        Hunt

        17 Replies
        1. re: Bill Hunt

          Hunt: imho better moutarde in Beaune than Dijon! Have you had Fallot?

          1. re: ChefJune

            Unfortunately, we were out in the country (Abbaye de la Bussiere), so our travels were 99% focused on the wines, and the producers. Both Dijon and Beaune were too quick, as was the moutarde tastings. I am not in a position to compare, yet.

            We hope to get back to Beaune, and spend more time "in town," and will hopefully get even more deeply into Burgundy.

            Sorry that I cannot comment better.

            Hunt

            1. re: ChefJune

              Chef June, i've always brought Fallot home to the US but read other posts here about raw mustard, specifically Maille brand. Do you prefer Fallot?

              1. re: MarySteveChicago

                Currently have both Fallot, moutarde de bourgogne, white burgundy wine and Maille, unpasteurized white wine, moutarde in my fridge.

                While both very good and Fallot far less expensive, l find l use the Fallot for cooking and large jobs and whan l want a small dollup of perfect mustard, l use the Maille.

                1. re: Delucacheesemonger

                  Fallot is ace. And quite potent.
                  The house of Fallot runs a wonderful mustard museum and also offers mustard-making workshops.

                  1. re: ChefJune

                    Thank you. I have a near empty jar of Fallot which I can buy online but i'm intrigued by the Malle unpasteurized which I'll try next spring while in Paris.

                    1. re: MarySteveChicago

                      Only attainable at store on Place Madelaine..

                      1. re: Delucacheesemonger

                        And a few weeks ago when we returned thru SFO we were asked for the first time if our declared Maille "mustards" were "fresh." I mumbled an ambiguous response. Are these lovely unpasteurized things now verboten, and we risk confiscation? -- Jake

                        1. re: Jake Dear

                          Come to think of it, Jake, I think we were asked the same thing last time (SFO). On that occasion, our mustards (violette) were pasteurized. But I did do a kind of a "what's this all about" double take.

                          1. re: mangeur

                            We happened to have some pasteurized mustards in our luggage as well, and that allowed me to mumble that we had pasteurized mustards. But the whole thing made me rather uncomfortable. We have brought unpasteurized Maille mustards back at least three times before this. This makes me wonder: Have the regulations changed? Have SFO customs officials been reading chowhound and become alert? -- Jake

                          1. re: MarySteveChicago

                            I believe he is talking about the store in Paris on Place Madelaine.

                2. re: Bill Hunt

                  Bill, would you like to give a little info on the Abbaye de la Bussiere? The rooms? Facilities? Dinners? Hosts?
                  Many thanks. Always looking for a new destination.

                  1. re: mangeur

                    I did a review on TripAdvisor, that hit the high notes. I also did a review of our tour guides, at that site, and would use them (recommended them to three friends so far), again.

                    The food was great, as were the accommodations.

                    Regarding the dining, as they are "out in the country," and not near other outlets, we planned on dining there for most meals. Somewhere, I had gotten the impression that their menu changed on Wednesdays. The main dining room is open Wednesday, thru Sunday, and then their "bistro" is open, with some similar menu items, on Monday & Tuesday. My info was incorrect. After having done the main dining room, then the bistro, and almost every variation, the chef approached us, and commented, "You have dined with us every night, and have tried everything on my menus. I am heading to the market this afternoon, and would like to do a grand tasting menu, just for you. Would you mind? Our answer, in unison was "No, that would be great." He did just that, and we were blown away. We understand why he has a Michelin star, and know that he intends to keep that.

                    Also, we had delved deeply into the cellar, for all of our meals, for everything after early breakfast. As it was a significant birthday for my wife, each wine maker was quick to gift her with a wonderful bottle of Burg. On our last two nights, I talked to the sommelier, and discussed all of the wine, that we could never take on our plane from CDG to SFO. He waved us away, and asked us to drop the bottles off. He then did a great service with all of those gift wines - maybe even more than from his cellar, and we shared those with him, with the chef, and our great servers. Every drop was consumed, before we flew out. No issue with BYOW, and no hesitation. Just great, and we all enjoyed it.

                    Though wonderful, if I had to repeat that same trip now, I would do a couple fewer days at the Abbaye, and then move on to Beaune for the rest of the trip. That is sort of what we hope to do in the future.

                    Hunt

                    1. re: Bill Hunt

                      Bill,
                      Here's pictures from our lunch in September '11 at the Abbaye.
                      BlueOx

                       
                       
                       
                       
                       
                       
                      1. re: BlueOx

                        That looks fabulous!

                        Maybe we need to do 14 days in Burgundy, with a couple of "Abbaye" stays? Then, head to Beaune for the rest.

                        Thank you,

                        Hunt

                3. For wine shops - Magnum in Beaune has an excellent selection. Cph la grande boutique du vin just outside of Beaune is quite a large store, which does not have the same amount of exclusive wines as Magnum, but you'll be able to find bargains if you know where to look.
                  Producers - Agree on Girardin, especially their whites. If you visit them in Meursault, you should also drop by the lovely Francois Mikulski, two minutes from Girardin if you are driving. Quite close is Puligny-Montrachet where you have Olivier Leflaive, which is similar in price structure to Girardin and equally good at whites though I find them to have an advantage when it comes to red. For modern style reds try Charlopin-Parizot or Lucine Le Moine, both of them can be a bit hard to get an appointment with though if you are not in the trade, but if you do it is worth the effort. For top of the line you could try Claude Dugat, very refined and elegant reds located in Gevrey-Chambertin. I could probably go on forever on Burgundian producers, but I think this could be a good start.
                  Restaurants - Everybody will tell you Ma Cuisine in Beaune, which serves very good classical dishes. The place will however be packed with people in the wine trade and tourists. I had an excellent meal at Le Comptoir de Tontons and would recommend it strongly. Outside of Beaune, Le Montrachet in Puligny-Montrachet is very elegant and classical. Olivier Leflaive that I mentioned earlier also has a restaurant in Puligny by the winery, that I have heard very good things about, though I haven't tried it. Finally, if you travel down to Tournus, Aux Terrasses is a great restaurant. Hope this will help a bit.

                  5 Replies
                  1. re: JosefK

                    Tonton sells wine as well and a local friend likes it a lot for selection and price. I only had a quick look at the list since we weren't serious buyers but it seemed substantial with a lot of hard-to-find names.

                    When asked for a recommendation for immediate and enjoyable drinking, the proprietor provided a couple of non-obvious picks (a single-vineyard red fr Domaine A&P de Villaine and a white Domaine Agnès Paquet Auxey-Duresses), both of which made us very happy. Under 20 euros a bottle too, rather less than we were expecting to spend.

                    1. re: shakti2

                      A&P de Villaine is excellent, made by the winemaker from DRC and that is just as good as it gets.

                    2. re: JosefK

                      Tonton was very highly recommended to us, and we went there expecting a great evening. Sadly, we were treated very shabbily, ignored by the owner and waitress and spoken down to when they deigned to favor us with a dab of attention. Perhaps it was because we were two women, but that's not a good excuse...

                      We didn't think the food was all that, either. I can't recommend that place to anyone.

                      1. re: ChefJune

                        Sorry to hear that. i had a very different experience when dining there and was very happy with service, food and wine selection.

                      2. re: JosefK

                        Thanks for the tips on the wine shops in Beaune!