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LQ @ Vertical Wine Bistro

Porthos Jul 28, 2013 11:58 PM

Guess it's no longer called a pop up since it's at his regular restaurant. Someone mentioned it's as good as back in the Bistro LQ days. Amazing to think he was doing all those pop ups without a real kitchen most of the time.

Really enjoyed everything tonight. Food is creative but delicious and not just creative or crazy combination for the sake of creative or crazy combination.

Amuse: 2 XLBs. One with Okinawan sweet potato and one with skate and choriso. Server with a side of delicious crayfish emulsion. If he made gelee with that emulsion and put it inside the XLB, it may be one of the best XLBs in town.

1st course: fried oyster, shirasu! (Baby fish), and barely charred halibut sashimi over sushi rice. Impressive to see shirasu appear on a non Japanese menu.

2nd course: stuffed zucchini blossoms with summer truffles and cream. Such an elegant dish.

3rd Course: Smoked veal carpaccio, anchovy, black olive tapenade, fried capers, cauliflower hushpuppies. The light smoke on the veal was a great accent. And updated and refined version with classic flavors.

4th Course: pigeon on a bed of corn and bean succotash. Pigeon was cooked rare, has a great grilled taste with a flavor profile similar to jerked chicken. Outstanding. I noticed more than one person use their hands to get every bit of pigeon meat from the leg and wing portion.

Dessert: Creme yogurt cremeux, callisson ice cream, steussel crumble, candied walnuts, and white peach emulsion. Light, refreshing, and a perfect end to the wonderful meal.

$48 all in with $10 corkage.

Hard to find something this creative, this tasty, and at this price anywhere.

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  1. PeterCC RE: Porthos Jul 29, 2013 12:24 AM

    Great write-up. The presentation of the dishes are wonderful, and the price point is unassailable.

    1 Reply
    1. re: PeterCC
      john gonzales RE: PeterCC Jul 29, 2013 10:01 AM

      Especially with their typically friendly corkage policy.

    2. y
      yangster RE: Porthos Jul 29, 2013 07:25 AM

      You didn't have any problems with service? I was there last night (main dining area next to the kitchen), and there were some serious snafus. Long gaps between dishes, and several tables including ours were served the 4th course before the 3rd. So, Chef Laurent ended up "switching" the courses to adjust for the mistake.

      I've always found the service to be lacking, but I didn't make too much fuss about it because I always figured they don't do this all the time, so it's understandable to have hiccups. And, we've always felt that the quality and creativity of the dishes makes up for the poor service.

      The zucchini blossoms and the dessert were our two favorite dishes of the night.

      14 Replies
      1. re: yangster
        Porthos RE: yangster Jul 29, 2013 07:51 AM

        Service is always friendly but there was a long gap between course 2 and 3. Didn't get a switch in courses.

        Like you said, I don't mind the occasional lulls (which I think occur when the room is at capacity) since everything else is so good.

        1. re: yangster
          ipsedixit RE: yangster Jul 29, 2013 09:33 AM

          That service is sort of like the Babita model.

          1. re: yangster
            carter RE: yangster Jul 29, 2013 10:21 AM

            I always found that sporadic service gaps were the issue when he was in South Pasadena, as time is required to get some dishes out of the kitchen, and he is willing to take that time. Patrons are there for his cooking and take on food, so he wants to make sure that everything arrives as intended. Can't blame servers for that.
            Your favorites dishes would have probably been mine as well.

            1. re: carter
              yangster RE: carter Jul 29, 2013 11:24 AM

              It's not just what's going on in the kitchen that's the issue. I've seen the servers bring dishes to the wrong tables multiple times. The wait time after our 2nd course was 45 minutes, and that was well after we had flagged down a server and told him we were still waiting for our 3rd course. The result? We were served the 4th course that was taken away only to come back as a "switched" course. Multiple times, we noticed that the servers were confused as to what was going on.

              Still, I enjoyed every dish, and I intend to go back on Aug 11.

              1. re: yangster
                Porthos RE: yangster Aug 8, 2013 07:09 AM

                Menu is up for Aug 11.

                The minor tweeks look like it should be even better. Think spring rolls may work even better than bao and I would have liked to try the okra tempura. Dessert looks good too. Please report back!

                Mise en Bouche
                Spring roll, Crayfish, Chorizo, Okinawan Sweet Potato, Crayfish Emulsion

                1st Course
                Oyster Gelee, Kama-age Shirasu, Fresh Wasabi Curdle Egg Yolk, Aji Chiles Sushi Rice, Burnt Halibut, Fried Hama Hama Oyster

                2nd Course
                Stuffed Zuchini Blossoms, Summer Truffles, Herbs, Butter Nage...like “Jacques Maximim” created them...

                3rd Course
                Smoked Veal Carpaccio, Anchovy & Black Olive Tapenade, Roasted Brioche, Fried Capers, Pickled Young Carrots, Red Okra Tempura, Minus 8

                4th Course
                Pigeon (Unilateral Cooking Method), Watercress Varnish, Corn & Shelling Beans Succotash

                Calisson Ice Cream, White Peach Cinnamon Espuma, Bacon Meringue, Smoked Blis Salmon Roe

                1. re: Porthos
                  kevin RE: Porthos Aug 8, 2013 11:12 AM

                  Portos. You gonna hit that shit up again ?

                  1. re: kevin
                    Porthos RE: kevin Aug 8, 2013 12:44 PM

                    kiven, going to Shanghailander that night instead.

                    1. re: Porthos
                      kevin RE: Porthos Aug 8, 2013 03:33 PM

                      what's that ?

                      sounds like a pop-up too.

                  2. re: Porthos
                    yangster RE: Porthos Aug 11, 2013 09:48 PM

                    Dessert was actually the same as last time...which wasn't a problem because we loved the cremeux/cherry gel/white peach combo. Plus, the thought of salmon roe in dessert was troubling (despite the genius of LQ). And the spring roll that replaced the XLB was a MUCH better vehicle for the crayfish and chorizo (pictures below).

                    I must say that the service was light years better this time around. The servers were conscious of asking diners how they were doing, and they did a much better job of getting dishes out in a timely fashion. My sister blames it on the Jay Z/Timberlake concert that was going on last time.

                    @kevin, Shanghailander is a pretty popular Shanghainese place in Hacienda (same shopping center as Little Sheep and Earthen). Not a pop-up.

                    1. re: yangster
                      kevin RE: yangster Aug 11, 2013 10:01 PM

                      Thanks man.

                      1. re: yangster
                        Porthos RE: yangster Aug 12, 2013 01:18 AM

                        Thanks for the report back and pictures!

                  3. re: carter
                    ipsedixit RE: carter Jul 29, 2013 02:11 PM

                    This is why Laurent's past restaurants have never succeeded.

                    A brilliant chef does not necessarily make for a great restaurateur. He needs someone in the FOH that will take him by the balls and tell him that sometimes service is just as important as the food, if not more so.

                    1. re: ipsedixit
                      kevin RE: ipsedixit Jul 29, 2013 03:48 PM

                      Front of the House, ?

                      1. re: kevin
                        ipsedixit RE: kevin Jul 29, 2013 03:52 PM


                2. ipsedixit RE: Porthos Jul 29, 2013 09:33 AM

                  Nice write-up, thanks for the report.

                  1. k
                    kevin RE: Porthos Jul 29, 2013 03:47 PM

                    That sounds like a downight bargain.

                    Usually these tasting menus, or rather price-fixes start up at about 75 bucks per, and then go on up from there.

                    1. peppermonkey RE: Porthos Jul 29, 2013 04:36 PM

                      A great meal indeed, though not as wild as I've seen him go in the past. The hush puppy didn't make sense to me and the xlb skins were dry on top. There was indeed varying gaps between some courses: some too quick and some very long. It's kinda expected if you've dined with him often.

                      1. TonyC RE: Porthos Jul 30, 2013 09:54 AM

                        How did you light these photos, porthos?

                        2 Replies
                        1. re: TonyC
                          Porthos RE: TonyC Jul 30, 2013 10:15 AM

                          Just a little no flash on the iphone4 (except dessert). I'm no JL or Perceptor that's for sure.

                          Sat under one of the sky lights so lighting was optimal.

                          1. re: Porthos
                            kevin RE: Porthos Jul 30, 2013 10:50 AM

                            is there a function to zoom in with the phone ?

                        2. l
                          linus RE: Porthos Jul 30, 2013 10:35 AM

                          i'm a bit confused:

                          is this a pop up or a restaurant? that is, if i make a reservation for some random night, is this the sort of food i'm going to get?
                          is laurent q there every or most nights?
                          do i have to ask, a la sergio, if he's cooking that night?

                          sorry for being thickish.

                          4 Replies
                          1. re: linus
                            Porthos RE: linus Jul 30, 2013 10:42 AM

                            He is there Tues-Sun at Vertical Wine Bistro doing the standard menu. There are certain dates where he does the pop-up menu.

                            Vertical Wine Bistro:


                            Pop up menu and dates:


                            1. re: Porthos
                              linus RE: Porthos Jul 30, 2013 10:47 AM

                              i think i get it. thanks for the info.

                              1. re: linus
                                kevin RE: linus Jul 30, 2013 10:51 AM

                                its basically still a pop-up within his permanent chefly digs.

                              2. re: Porthos
                                kevin RE: Porthos Jul 30, 2013 10:51 AM

                                i can't wait for that 20-course white truffle menu in the fall.

                                not half bad for 200 bones.

                            2. m
                              MaldenBoy RE: Porthos Aug 7, 2013 10:23 AM

                              I am going next Sunday night this will be my 6th of his latest LQ dinners last 2 were also at Vertical Wine Bar before that Barney Greengrass,something sisters ,and Starry Kitchen,the food is always great for the price and the cheese cart is to die for. He only does this on Sunday and Monday nights for a limited run Regular Menu rest of week

                              1. r
                                revets2 RE: Porthos Mar 4, 2014 11:27 AM

                                Anyone go to the February dinner?

                                5 Replies
                                1. re: revets2
                                  Porthos RE: revets2 Mar 5, 2014 11:09 AM

                                  Was out of town in February.

                                  Are you going to the March one? Just got an email with the March Menu.
                                  Mise en Bouche

                                  ANKIMO | Okonomiyaki, Chicharones, Chipotle, Epazote

                                  1st Course

                                  BLIS SMOKED CHAR ROE | Carlsbad Oysters, Scrambled Eggs, Mezcal Whipped, Blis Smoked Char Roe

                                  2nd Course

                                  OLYMPIC PENINSULA STEELHEAD | Farro Tonka Risotto, Edamame, Black Trumpet, Claytonia, Samphire

                                  3rd Course

                                  SWEETBREADS | “Ragu petit Jus”, Cocks comb, FG, Black Truffles, Rice Cakes, Wild Mushrooms (TBD based on market availability), Tarragon

                                  4th Course

                                  PIG BERKSHIRE | Cheeks, Persimmon Wood-smoked Mashed Potatoes, Green Garlic Buttermilk Biscuit, Celery Root Slaw, Fava, Hoshigaki


                                  OKINAWAN SWEET POTATO PUREE | Blackberry Panna Cotta, Taro Ice Cream, Black Currant Gel, Blueberry Streusel, Taro Ganache, Beet Sponge

                                  1. re: Porthos
                                    JAB RE: Porthos Mar 5, 2014 12:32 PM

                                    I still dream of the sweetbreads that I had at LQ.

                                  2. re: revets2
                                    yangster RE: revets2 Mar 5, 2014 12:12 PM

                                    Ask and you shall receive...

                                    Differences between the Feb menu and the one that Porthos posted:

                                    1st - BBQ Spice Rubbed Albacore Tataki, Kimchee Tapioca, Golden Beet Pico, Cilantro Blossom, Chervil
                                    3rd - "Waterduck" - Duck Wonton, Duck Breast, Duck Tongue, Duck Consomme, Black Truffle, Duck Gizzard Spring Roll
                                    Dessert - Chocolate Sponge/Tuile/Crumblem, Caramel Cremeux, Salted Caramel Ice Cream, Praline Powder

                                    As usual, everything was great, but the standout dishes were the albacore (especially the kimchee tapioca and golden beet combo) and duck (probably my favorite duck dish period...I'd pay good money to have that dish again).

                                    1. re: yangster
                                      Porthos RE: yangster Mar 5, 2014 12:23 PM

                                      Duck dish looks insanely good! All if it does actually. Thanks for reporting with the photos!

                                      1. re: Porthos
                                        kevin RE: Porthos Mar 5, 2014 01:52 PM

                                        I'm surprised I've never made it to LQ and his price point he's doing stuff that maybe the French Laundry would do taken through an LSD-influenced acid trip for about a tenth the price, except the lavish and expensive white truffle dinner from a few years back of course.

                                        Btw, does anyone have a link to the white truffle dinner from 2010 or was it 011 I believe ????????????????


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