SYD wine bars with most talented chef
I'd also put 10 William St and 121 BC up there. Chef at 10 William St just won the Sydney Time Out award for Hot Talent. Mitch Orr (ex-Duke, ex-Buzo) just started in the kitchen there. Haven't been yet, but I really like the food at Duke and the pasta degustation at Buzo. Bentley's on its last legs before closing down, but what they're doing at Monopole would probably fit what you're looking for.
I will see these are more wine bars with accompanying food as opposed to restaurants with good wine lists and very knowledgeable staff.