Bill Buford and Daniel Boulud in the New Yorker
The article is unfortunately for subscriber only. It is worth the trip to find a print copy and read this article word for delicious word. Here is the link:
The story came about when Bill Buford was asked to work with Daniel Boulud to recreate some classic French dishes and then write about it. The dishes are: chartreuse, Coubiliac, and duck a la presse. Buford's way with words came in handy and conveyed the experience nicely. there are some excellent historical perspective and the dishes sounded stupendous.
It is the July 29th 2013 issue.
Thoroughly enjoyed it, with one big "harumph"-- Julia Child was a big fan of Coubiliac and gives a recipe for it in at least two of her books. I was sort of annoyed that she went completely unmentioned in the history given of the dish, especially since I'm no master of cooking arcana. Also, and not disapprovingly, I'll note that the photo of it is pretty damn...suggestive.