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Bangkok - street food reccs and critique overall itinerary

h
helen b Jul 12, 2013 04:24 AM

Right. Think I have our itinerary pretty much planned. VERY excited! And this is probably way too ambitious given I wilt in anything stickier than a Scottish summer, but...

I arrive mid morning (Four Seasons nr Siam Square) and will grab something in Soi Langsuam (have a recc from here for the southern curry lady with the red pots on Soi 7, anything else good?)

Then braving taking a boat down Khlong Saen Saeb (are they regular?) and getting off at Tha Plan Fah to go down to the monk bowls alley off the Boriphat. Any reccs for round there for a lunchtime treat?

Will make my way back to Siam Square and may go to Som Tam Nua or the Central World food stalls, otherwise bit of craft shopping at Narai Phand and then R&R in hotel.

That evening we're either doing T Restaurant or Bussaracum or Somboon (thanks kyleoh!)

Next day is my big touristy day. Going to get an early breakfast from the stalls at the Ram IV Lumphini Park exit then get the ferry upriver to 'do' the Grand Palace/Wat Pho/Amulet Market/massage pavilion etc. Any top tips for good street food in that locale? Am assuming it might be all a bit touristy...

Dinner that night will be a roving feast of Likhit Kai Gaang for chicken and som tam, Thip Samai for pad thai in egg, and strolling Chinatown. Would be good to get a banana roti somewhere for pudding or durian ice cream or basically anything involving lovely Thai fruit. Then drinks at the Sky Bar.

Final day will be filling in the things I got too hot for and missed and/or Or Kor Market and/or West bank canals and Wat Arun and/or Soi Convent/Pradit grazing.

Then dinner booked at Nahm :)

So, can you help fill in the blanks? I'd like to make sure I have a fairly representative spread of southern/royal/Issan/chinese Thai, and tick off the dishes that have grabbed me eg som tam, nam prik, crab curry, catfish floss, grilled chicken, crab fried rice, roti, mango and rice, summer chilled jasmine rice etc. I think the two things we're missing are some sort of riverside meal/drink, and anything in a lovely old shophouse (Chote Chitre seems to get v mixed reviews). And we won't be able to do Krua Apsorn because of early closing.

But hopefully they're reasons to justify coming back!

NB - during the day I'll be on my own, and am female. Am assuming that won't be an issue?

  1. s
    shakti2 Jul 12, 2013 07:04 AM

    From the Grand Palace, you will be a (sweaty) 10-minute walk fom Thanon Tanao, a terrific stretch of very local homes and businesses, including some great eats. No tourists except for the stray farang clutching an old NYT clipping in search of Chitr Chitr which is in this area, in an enclave of restored townhouses. Their hours are unreliable but there is another good place for old-fashioned dishes nearby (Poj Spa Kha) and a good Issan place further up Tanao. There are also lots of small places selling hard-to-find traditional snacks along the way, including a mango rice specialist. Google up 'Thanon Tanao CNNgo' for a useful map of the area by an expat blogger.

    Otherwise, the rest of your list looks good but ambitious in relation to Bangkok traffic around dinner-time on a week-day. From the 4 seasons, my preference with a work-weary companion would be to head to Laem Charoen at Central World for seafood, since it is nearby and strollable via the elevated walkway. Get their house special deep-fried marinated fish, which is a miracle of skilled frying with a super-crunchy exterior and pillowy interior - you'll see one heading to pretty much every table. They should have your curried crab - not my preferred preparation, so I haven't had it, but pretty much everything else I've had off their very large menu has been pretty good.

    If you want to go to Chinatown in the evening, consider the river express to bypass traffic - you'll be within 5 minutes of the lively stretch of Yaowarat if you disembark at Ratchawong, and you can get a taxi back after traffic has dispersed.

    All these areas are fine for lone female tourists but remember to keep the usual careful eye on your valuables when in a bustling crowd.

    1 Reply
    1. re: shakti2
      Bkkfatty Jul 14, 2013 10:44 AM

      Great recommendation! Tanao area is awesome. Also there's great thai food in nice settings all over and easily accessible that re not mentioned here (Bo.lan, the Local, Paste, Soulfood Mahanakorn). Much better places than CTW, siam square, and other super touristy spots than aren't great for relaxing.

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