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Jul 10, 2013 07:52 PM

Biryani Xpress now open. 15 Mile & Dequindre [DTW]

I’ve recently been trying to get some Indian cooking skills. Not going too well, taste wise, even though I’m learning a lot from the books. I even think I’m freaking out my favorite Indian grocer (Troy’s Subzi Mandi), who maybe thinks I’m casing his joint (given the frequency of my visits) or, more likely, that I’m just a weird white dude.

Anyway, one of my dishes that actually has turned out quite nicely is my biryani vegetable rice—a classic dish originating from ethnic Persians living in India. Therefore, when I noticed a new restaurant on the west edge of Troy (Dequindre & Maple) which specializes in this dish, I rushed in. The place is aptly named “Biryani Xpress.” And, Biryani Xpress’s gimmick is “Every dinner is only $5.” On days where I’m resigned to eating non-organic restaurant food within my budget, the phrase “$5 dinners” has a mighty good ring to it.

The manager was very nice and let me have tastes from the various steam trays. In the end, I pulled out $27 and had one of almost everything on offer--- meat thali (butter chicken, lentil stew, rice, chapati bread, and raita cucumber yogurt dip); vegetarian thali (same but sub veg curry for butter chicken); chicken biryani; chilli chicken; and, chicken 65. The chicken biryani was pretty good and interesting, but it was VERY spicy. I asked whether any biryanis were available in medium or mild, and the manager said, “Yes, I’d be glad to mix in some plain rice when filling your biryani container.”

All the dishes were good (great for the price), but the veg thali combo and meat thali combo were the big winners, based on variety and value, even though none “took me to a flavor place I’ve never before been.” (Wow, all that good thali for $5.) I probably had let my anticipation of some kind of sublime biryani adventure go too far before getting my order, so nothing probably could have met/exceeded my excessive expectations. But, I certainly will order the biryani again. Maybe their mutton or egg version. I mean, how could my original expectations not have been too high??, after reading their recipe from THEIR OWN website:

“1. Marinate chicken with the ingredients called for 'marination'.
2. Cook basmati rice with bay leaves, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, marathi mogga, elaichi, oil, salt till its half cooked.
3. Heat 1 tbsp oil + 1 tbsp ghee in a vessel, add sliced onions, saute for 8-10 mts till caramelized. Remove and keep aside.
4. Add the saffron to the luke warm milk and combine well. Keep aside.
5. Take a wide deep vessel to prepare the biryani. Add 3 tbsps oil, add the marinated chicken and spread out over the vessel.
6. Cook on high for 2 mts. Add a tbsp of oil over the chicken pieces. Reduce flame.
7. Spread half of the rice over the chicken layer, pour half a tbsp of ghee all over the rice.
8. Place lid and over the lid place a heavy weight and seal the edges with wheat dough. Cook on high flame for 2 mts.
9. After 10 mts, remove lid, combine gently and serve hot with raita and curry of your choice.”

This is the first Biryani Xpress. A new concept from a group of local ethnic Indian professionals (not previously in the resto business…just food enthusiasts/entrepreneurs). These four guys are partnering, with plans to soon expand to Toledo and then later to Cincy. Check it out, and try one of their deeply rich and sweet homemade drinks such as mango lassi or “badam milk” which I think has nut milk and squeezed fruit (whatever was in it was yummy). Just $0.99, so what do you have to lose besides your calorie points?!!

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  1. "or, more likely, that I’m just a weird white dude."

    "nut milk"

    I'm afraid, my friend, that the joke is just too easy. ;)

    2 Replies
    1. re: boagman

      and, I was just logging back in to edit my post, to add a side comment about how you burst my bubble, with regards to my excitement over the possibility of Neehee's coming to Troy. :-(

      1. re: VTB

        Anyone know the status of the Troy NeeHee's? I thought they were really going ahead with that one next, but have not heard anything in a while.

    2. How were the chilli chicken and chicken 65? I'm usually a fan of both. I'd been driving all the way to Zayeqa to get them, and was very disappointed in both the last time out there (with the younger guy cooking, and the older guy sitting around chatting ...) This place is far more convenient for me, so I'll be thrilled if theirs are great-- for $5!

      1 Reply
      1. re: ak994

        The chilli chicken and chicken 65 were okay, but I was much happier with the thali. The nice thing is that you can get a taste of the two chicken dishes before deciding.
        PS-- my post said "east Troy." I meant to say east Sterling Hts / west Troy border.

      2. So, based on the balance of comments by VTB (my food hero) and preference for gamier flavors I got the mutton biryani. They remembered the strange and chatty white guy and I told them we were related by marriage (to good food) and two of the owners appeared. They told the same story as was reported.

        The meal was 500g of well spiced and cooked rice with 9 pieces of mutton of different cooking quality. Had all been evenly cooked it would have been very satisfying especially with the supplied riatta yogurt sauce. Although some were neck and some were shoulder that was great for flavor but not for consistency.

        The mutton in the biryani was very unevenly cooked to me in that I suspect they have recycled older dishes ( I was there at 3pm on Saturday) with earlier offerings clearly added to the fresher plate. That is quite common in buffets and was not a surprise... Economically I can understand and I'm still working out the food safety part of it. MUCH of the mutton was well over-cooked (perhaps to low previous sales??).

        Taste-wise: They asked me if I could handle the heat (not the spice??) and rather than give them a CV of food travels I said for " $5 I will risk it". And, the heat level was well tolerable for szechuan enthusiasts with the riatta yogurt sauce.

        Ultimately: I found the value/quantity/service worth the $5/plate to be fair. Chili Chicken is next.

        Ironically they had a fish "special" for $7 on the buffet on Saturday. I guess up-selling is global.

        It's 500m south of Maple on the east side of Dequindre and their opening hours are similar to other Indian restaurants (not always open) so check at to verify. The A/C was out on Saturday but it was clean overall so I would take adventurous colleagues for lunch. It's buffet so quick and sporty is very possible.

        Oh: and Sir Boag Man: We found your request:

        1 Reply
        1. re: goatgolfer

          PS--sorry, I guess 3pm is right at the transition between lunch and dinner. Unfortunate timing. Do take advantage of their tasting policy. (And, the chilli chicken was better than the chicken 65 IMO)
          If you can really handle pure spice/acid/onion, you may want to try the food counter at Subzi Mandi. Brutal, but interesting and cheap and fresh.