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Jul 7, 2013 12:51 PM

Paris 13th arrondissement family-friendly restaurants

We'll be in Paris in August for 2 weeks, staying in the 13th arrondissement. Would love to hear suggestions for good places to eat in any price range, as long as they are okay with kids. Thanks for the advice!

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  1. Can you give us a little more info? where in the 13th (it's a big arrondissement)? what kind of food? what style of restaurant (trad, chic, ethnic, etc) ?

    2 Replies
    1. re: Parnassien

      The apartment is on the Rue Jeanne d'Arc. We're open to any kind of food. We'll be there for long enough to try lots of things. Perhaps not chic places, as they would be less appropriate for children.

      1. re: merylnet

        Not terribly far away from your apartment (on the Quai d'Austerlitz) is a kicky place, Wanderlust in a huge new modern bldg along the Seine. We ate there a couple of weeks ago just before it passed to the hands of Christophe Pele (ex-Bigarrade). It's most kid friendly (we were with our two 14 year olds).
        And though you probably aren't coming to Paris for non-French food, the Asian places in the 13th's Chinatown (Lao Thai for example) are fun and kid-friendly.
        And, though I've never been with kids, I'll bet Dans Les Landes would also work.

    2. If your kids are restaurant-trained, all restaurants in France are kid-friendly. If they are bratty or disruptive, there's not much tolerance and the parent is expected to remove the kid for a little cool-down. If the kids are fussy eaters, many restaurants will make a special plate of pasta or something usually liked by children.

      Except for the nearby Chinatown, the immediate area around rue Jeanne d'Arc is not well trampled by most Chowhounders or even much visited by Parisiens who don't live there. You will probably have to do a lot of exploring on your own. There's a sweet patch around the Eglise Notre-Dame-de-la-Gare/ place Jeanne d'Arc (where there's a Tue + Sun open air market) and a few other places but otherwise not very exciting.

      Best bet for a no-frills kid-friendly French-Algerian bistro: Au Banquier on the rue Banquier (3-min walk from the intersection of rue Jeanne d'Arc and bd de l'Hôpital)... shareable portions... couscous at weekends... cheap and cheerful.

      Tempero at 5 rue Clisson (a 5-min walk from rue Jeanne-d'Arc) is a lovely mixture of French, Vietnamese and Brazilian and has the added advantage of takeaway... lunch Mon to Fri but dinner only on Thu + Fri... and a bargain!

      For trad French, maybe a walk into the 5th for Au Boin Coin on rue Collégiale. For Basque and southwest small plates, Dans les Landes on the rue Monge. For crêpes, Pot o'Lait on the rue Censier.

      For trad French regional in the 13th (but a bit of a walk from rue Jeanne d'Arc), Le Petit Pascal on the rue Pascal/ bd Saint-Marcel, Auberge Etchegorry on the rue Croulebarbe, Chez Gladines on the rue Cinq Diamants on the cutesy Butte aux Cailles.

      John Talbott's Wanderlust is a great place... the restaurant of the new Cité de la Mode et du Design... but very hip, very "in" and very much of a scene, especially on weekend nights and maybe not all that suitable for kids as the night wears on... I've seen kids here for lunch but never for dinner (admittedly I eat very late... but, in France, so do kids).

      8 Replies
      1. re: Parnassien

        Also, l'Ourcine (rue Broca, off boulevard Arago) is going to reopen in July, as a matter or fact it probably has reopened now. Recommended.

        Seconding Etchegorry warmly.

        1. re: Ptipois

          L'Ourcine: I dropped by a few days ago and there was no window yet. Let's go back as soon as they reopen, assuming prices did not take off.

          Totally on line with Parnassien and Pti, also on kids not being an issue unless they also are outside the restaurant.

          Why no mention of the Chinatown classics? Likafo, Asia Palace, Lao Lane Xang (which sucks but critics love), Pho 14, Pho Mui, Indochine, Le Bambou?

          Also in Chinatown, there's beyawesome (those who know Disney's Bolt know what I mean, others should catch up) Pasta e Basta for some of the best wine and antipasti in town (pizza quite good, pasta ok).

          Suave, on rue de la Providence, rocks too, for small restaurant, housemade Vietnamese food. But Yong on rue de la Colonie is not what it used to be.

          And there's l'Avant Gout for affordable chef cooking, that small creperie on rue de la Butte Aux Cailles, and Sukothai for good Thai.

          1. re: souphie

            It is better not to direct people to Lao Lane Xang. Owing to the board's regulations I cannot tell why, but believe me, this is serious advice.

            1. re: Ptipois

              I said it sucks! How much less can I direct people there?

              1. re: souphie

                Ptipois had originally posted a much stronger response that seems to have been removed. What you see now is the cleaned up version.

                1. re: souphie

                  Sorry, I hadn't realized that mentioning it as one of the "Chinatown classics" together with a few very good or at least decent places, with the additional information that "critics love it" amounted to not directing people there! "It sucks" just didn't seem to balance the deal.

                  Really, less directing to it would be not mentioning it at all, if you'll excuse my twisted English.

                  L.L.X One and Two (yikes, they breed!) are the Voldemort of Paris restaurants.

                  1. re: Ptipois

                    Boy, I'm getting lost here in the internecine comments.
                    I think the response(s) to the OP should indicate that the 13th Chinatown has good, ordinary and bad chow.
                    Go but as always, respect our elders.

          2. re: Parnassien

            Totally agree with Parn's take on the issue of kid-friendliness in Paris restaurants.
            Kids (or adults) who are loud in a restaurant are frowned upon indeed. It is not being kid-unfriendly. It is about being humanity-friendly.

            Had a friend who lived in the Jeanne d'Arc area. There is a very good weekly market, but in terms of restaurants, there's no there there. Solution? Public transport.
            There is an excellent Chinese restaurant serving authentic Shandong fares: Les Délices de Shandong.

          3. Thanks to all of you for your suggestions. I'll report back.