[Dunvegan, Isle of Skye] Three Chimneys
Our second time at the Three Chimneys- the first was four years ago.
At lunchtime on a drizzly summer day, the Three Chimneys was surprisingly empty, but did eventually fill up a bit.
Starter: seafood soup for me. Gorgeous. Briny but not fishy, good chunks of fish. Blade and tongue of beef for Himself. Tongue fried and crunchy- he loved it.
Main: The last time, I had their seafood platter, but in general, I am not a huge fan of cold seafood, though this was definitely fresh and well-prepared. This time, I had monkfish and scallops, wrapped in bacon, with cabbie claw. Monkfish pearlescent and perfectly cooked, scallop plump and juicy, and I looooved the horseradish in the cabbie claw. I would take this over the seafood platter any day.
Dessert: Unusually for me, this was a highlight. Cranachan- how have I not known of this before?! Wonderful, wonderful. So simple, but works so perfectly. I could have eaten a vat of this. I'll be looking at making this for our summer barbecues, now that it looks like we're actually having a summer.
We will always make time to stop at The Three Chimneys if/when we are on Skye. It's a beautiful room in a beautiful location, and the staff are excellent, especially when you hear them explaining the same thing over and over again for each table. "Cabbie Claw is..." "Cranachan is..."
Oh me oh my. Ate here last night and it left me having one of those seemingly very important debates in my head about where in my Top Three Ever it now ranked...pretty close, I say, and that includes Noma and L'Enclume, of both of which it had a whiff.
The setting obviously helps. You have to make a real effort to get here, driving along isolated roads through some of the most spectacular scenery in the UK, if not the world. It takes time, and feels like a pilgrimage. That sense of worship continues in the lowhung white washed stone building, which has something of the Kirk to it, though obviously a darn sight more comfortable.
We went for the tasting menu, naturally, because when are we ever going to be back?
Nibbles of cheese puff with smoked trout rillettes; Scotch Woodcok cheese straws; baked salsify. Then:
Local Bracadale Brown Crab Parfait, Apple, Mull Cheddar, Sorrel
Colbost Skink (smoked haddock chowder), Marag Dubh (black pudding) & Talisker (whisky) crumb, Local Croft Egg Yolk
Skye Lobster Tomalley, Prawn, Totaig (local) veg and radish
Sconser King Scallop, minted green peas, gooseberries and bacon
Fried Loch Harport Oysters and Black Isle Blade of Beef with cauliflower, parsley, anchovy
Loin and leg of hare with spring greens, gingerbread, crowdie (cheese) and blaeberries
Cairnsmore Goats Cheese, Cherries and Pecan Crumble
Three Chimneys Hot Marmalade Pudding Souffle, Drambuie Syrup and Mealie (oats) ice cream
Petits fours then included tablet and mini lemon meringues
Gosh it was spectacular. Even the crockery felt liturgical, again like L'Enclume. But there was none of the 'I've put this foraged leaf on the plate for educational purposes' - everything was just lovely, and had its place.
Awesome, in the original sense of the word. If you love food, if you plan your dinner while you're eating breakfast, you have to go. Just have to.