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Jul 6, 2013 09:26 AM

Good Things At Good Kitchen in Flushing

One area where New York City lags a little behind is dim sum. Part of the problem is that there's not as much in the way of innovative newer dim sum items like one sees in Hong Kong and points east. Consequently it was refreshing to see that Good Kitchen at 135-29 37th Ave. (former Tung Yi Fung site) has stocked their dim sum menu with some interesting items, such as durian rolls, honeydew balls, Mexican buns, green pea cake and a chicken rice noodle roll that looks more like a small burrito than cheung fun. Food is good, not great, but it's really nice to see these newer items.

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  1. Yeah, I wish we had better dim sum. But durian rolls are quite common - I think nearly every place offers them, even old school joints like Golden Unicorn. None of them are particularly good, but I always order, hoping for some close to World Tong quality at least.

      1. re: buttertart

        Deluxe Market in Manhattan's Chinatown has long had them in their bakery section. Or a version of them. I can't recall what makes the Deluxe Market one Mexican - corn maybe?

        1. re: scoopG

          Mexican bun is so called because the top is similar to Mexican sweet bread--not a frosting, but a different texture top. It's often, though not always, filled with cream, too. Much more often found in bakeries than restaurants.

          1. re: Chandavkl

            Is that's what's called a kayam bao? It's interesting this comes up now because I saw them being offered for the first time at Jade Asian this past weekend. Since it's usually a bakery item, I was surprised to see it being offered. The custard-filled analog is called a bo lo bao, sometimes called a pineapple bun. And while those are usually only had in bakeries, you can get a similar bun without the topping at dim sum restaurants if you ask for a lai wong bao.

            I agree with Peter Cuce - I've seen plenty of durian rolls and and honeydew balls. The green pea cake has me intrigued, though. What's that involve?

            1. re: Greg

              Mexican bun has a plain white top, as opposed to the bo lo (literally pineapple) bun, which is craggy and yellow on top, either plain or custard filled. The green pea cake has single pieces of green pease embedded in something resembling what old timers may recall as almond jello.

              1. re: Chandavkl

                Thanks for the clarification.

                Your description of the green pea cake makes it sound kind of off-putting, as I'm picturing green peas floating in aspic. Is the cake fried like a lo bok go? Guess I'll need to stop in and find out for myself.

                1. re: Greg

                  No, the "cake" is hardened. If you're not familiar with almond jello, generally made from agar, it's quite solid compared to regular jello.

      2. interesting, ive always meant to try that place, but never got around to it...ill go there next time i get dim sum