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David Lebovitz and the Eclair de Genie eclair find.

John Talbott Jul 5, 2013 12:52 PM

It's impossible to live in Paris as a Yankee expat and ignore the wisdom written by our culinary geniuses - David Lebovitz, Alec Lobrano, Meg Zimbeck, Patricia Wells (until she moved South) and chefs like Daniel Rose, but today Colette struck the gold vein - David L's rec for the Eclair de Genie, 14 Rue Pavee in the 4th (open Tuesday-Sunday 11h00-19h30 http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2013/07/...). We had three tonight where each one one was better then the last. A pistachio with fraises de bois, a beurre sale and caramelized pecans on top of Madagascar cream.

  1. PhilD Jul 13, 2013 05:49 PM

    Looks like the UK is also going eclair mad - definitely the new cupcake:

    http://www.independent.co.uk/life-sty...

    7 Replies
    1. re: PhilD
      d
      dietndesire Jul 14, 2013 06:48 AM

      Equating eclairs with cupcakes is beyond insulting.
      Cupcakes are trash in their finest form.
      Sure, you can make a trash eclair but summit is one of truly dizzying heights.

      1. re: dietndesire
        p
        Ptipois Jul 14, 2013 10:21 AM

        Agreeing with every word of that.

        1. re: dietndesire
          PhilD Jul 14, 2013 03:12 PM

          Comparing the trend, fashion and hype not the merits of the pastry. I agree the two should be quite different, but let's see where this trend end up.

          I fully expect to see some horrendous combinations, blinged-up beyond recognition, which will be a long way from the humble eclair. There will be eclair cookbooks, TV program's, and earnest blogs (with spin off market stalls).

          1. re: PhilD
            p
            Ptipois Jul 14, 2013 03:51 PM

            One look at the cough-drop éclairs illustrating the article is enough to demonstrate that many will jump on the bandwagon but not everyone can be Christophe Adam.

            1. re: PhilD
              k
              kaleokahu Jul 15, 2013 08:53 AM

              Perhaps it will end with the cronut? http://dominiqueansel.com/cronut-101/

              1. re: kaleokahu
                p
                Ptipois Jul 15, 2013 11:01 AM

                The cronut just began, it might take a little while until it ends. The only thing we can be sure of is that it will end someday.

                (Why is pastry such a frequent victim of bad kitsch?)

                1. re: Ptipois
                  k
                  kaleokahu Jul 16, 2013 11:44 AM

                  The cronut could be the beginning of the end. Or just the end of the beginning. Of the end.

        2. Parnassien Jul 7, 2013 02:32 PM

          For those that like to compare and contrast rather than deal in absolutes, Le Figaro provides some suggestions in its piece on "Les 5 addresses où manger un bon éclair à Paris" for the Quinzaine des éclairs/ the Eclair Fortnight promo last March.
          http://www.lefigaro.fr/sortir-paris/2...

          And for choux à la crème/ cream puffs, the cool kids and me are crazy for Popelini (two shops, on the rue Debelleyme @ rue Bretagne in the Haut Marais and on the rue des Martyrs @ rue Navarin in the 9th).

          1. p
            pistachio peas Jul 7, 2013 11:01 AM

            These eclairs sound fantastic. Hopefully they're as good next time I'm in Paris. I have to say though, I find this board much more useful than David Lebovitz's site. I used to like it a lot but then I saw he has something like 40,000 followers on Instagram and he follows um...no one.

            1 Reply
            1. re: pistachio peas
              c
              ClaireLS Jul 10, 2013 03:28 PM

              I don't understand your point about how many followers he has compared to who he follows. I have made use of his Paris pastry app and his blog suggestions as well as recipes and had much success with them. Yes CH is helpful but so are his specific suggestions.

            2. estufarian Jul 6, 2013 05:22 AM

              OK.
              Maybe it's just sour grapes (sour eclairs?) but my discovery of this place in April was totally ignored by this community.
              My thanks to those who did respond to my request for Le Roux pastries.
              http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/890155

              3 Replies
              1. re: estufarian
                p
                Ptipois Jul 6, 2013 06:37 AM

                Having been aware of its opening back in early Spring but not having had the time to taste the stuff yet, of course there was no way I was going to mention it without knowing what I was talking about, even though there was a good probability for high praise. Sometimes a discovery like yours is duly witnessed but not commented since nobody has anything to say about it as yet.

                1. re: Ptipois
                  John Talbott Jul 6, 2013 07:07 AM

                  Fair enough.
                  I must say I'm not that passionate about pastry and totally passed by estufarian's post; it was my wife of 52 years who reading David L's blog said she had to go.
                  BTW estufarian, being ignored here is an honor I wear proudly.

                  1. re: John Talbott
                    Beach Chick Jul 13, 2013 04:48 AM

                    Saw the pics too of those gorgeous eclairs..glad to hear they are fantastic as well.

              2. s
                sderham Jul 5, 2013 11:17 PM

                FYI, John. Patricia Wells hasn't "moved south." She spends a lot of time at her home in Vaison, but also spends a lot of time, usually late fall and winter, plus more, at her home in Paris.

                3 Replies
                1. re: sderham
                  John Talbott Jul 6, 2013 07:08 AM

                  All I can say is that the last time i saw her and Walter she was leading groups thru the Seguret market.

                  1. re: John Talbott
                    Parigi Jul 6, 2013 07:30 AM

                    You mean Vaison la Romaine ? I don't think Séguret has a market.

                    1. re: Parigi
                      John Talbott Jul 6, 2013 08:52 AM

                      There go those false memories again or maybe no - http://www.flickr.com/photos/bat21bat...

                2. p
                  Ptipois Jul 5, 2013 03:23 PM

                  Funny - I was there just this afternoon (working on a secret project).
                  I have known Christophe Adam for a few years and I knew his work at Fauchon, which I enjoyed without being crazy about it.
                  But since he created L'Eclair de Génie I had never tasted his éclairs. I tasted them for the first time today.

                  I was really, really impressed. I dare not tell you how many I had, but each one was a winner. Tasty, charming, beautiful and witty. Each element perfectly balanced (the vanilla cream...). As you write, "each one was better than the last".

                  One of his secrets is the freshness of ingredients. He also expresses pastry-chef creativity in a way that I really like, not through complicated, pretentious, oversugary "haute couture pastries", but through variations on a simple form (the éclair) that can be creative and daring, but always tasty and never over-the-top.

                  There are two types of pâtissiers right now. The big stars who have reached the industrial stage and the true artisans who produce small quantities on the premises, replacing them as they get sold. That is the case of Jacques Genin (before he stopped individual pastry), Carl Marletti and Christophe Adam. That sure makes a lot of difference.

                  I agree with Parigi about the inflative use of the G-word, but I think we should keep a little piece of it for the occasions when it has meaning, i.e. Daniel Rose indeed, or Christophe's éclairs.

                  2 Replies
                  1. re: Ptipois
                    Parigi Jul 5, 2013 03:28 PM

                    Indeed Daniel's name on the list did not make me cry "jihad ?".

                    1. re: Parigi
                      p
                      Ptipois Jul 5, 2013 03:30 PM

                      I sort of had figured it out.

                  2. Parigi Jul 5, 2013 02:07 PM

                    Whoa whoa whoa. I am very fond of, - and have learned a great deal from, - the people you listed, but the word genius, like the word hero, does have meaning.
                    Let's not fall into the prevalent metaphor inflation where every event is tsunami, or genocide, or jihad, and every starting porn actor a porn star and never a porn starlet, in a galaxy with more geniuses and heroes than generals in a banana republic.

                    2 Replies
                    1. re: Parigi
                      p
                      Ptipois Jul 5, 2013 03:25 PM

                      You MUST try his banana-passionfruit éclair.

                      1. re: Parigi
                        Rio Yeti Jul 6, 2013 03:24 AM

                        Totally agree with you Parigi, I will no longer speak of porn stars willy nilly ! ;)

                        As for those éclairs, well I will have to go check them out then... although I'll wait for a day during the week, I can imagine the line being pretty long on the weekend.

                        I'm wondering though if an éclair which has a "glazing" heavier than the "filling" (like the strawberry pistacchio one pictured on DL's website), still counts as being an éclair, technically.

                        Not that it makes any bit of importance, once it's in my mouth.

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