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Jun 28, 2013 02:29 AM

Beaune & Paris Itinerary - Any Comments Appreciated! :)

Hi Everyone - new to chowhound here :) Researched extensively for our honeymoon & thought we had it all planned out until finding out a lot of places are not open in hoping to get some thoughts here. :)

We don't really care for ambiance / environment as long as the food is good (we'd go anywhere and fight through crowds for good food!), though at the same time we also don't mind trying some 'fine dining' type of places if the food is worthwhile. Here's what we have so far:

1) Beaune
Looking for 2 dinners - originally decided on Ma Cuisine and Caves de Madeleine, but both are closed in August.

We're now thinking of Le Benaton and L'Ecusson - but they seem quite different from our former choices, and would prefer for at least one of the meals be in a place that is a little more 'simple'. We will have a car and don't mind driving outside of Beaune.

For lunch we are thinking of keeping it open and see where we end up during the day (we are planning on touring by bike on our own), though will make sure to stop by Alain Hess!

2) Paris

Current selections are -
Le Chateaubriand (hoping to be able to get the reservation)
L'Atelier Etoile
Les Fables de la Fontaine
Huitrerie Regis

We really wanted to try Le Bistrot Paul Bert (especially their steak frites), but they are closed. Have not been able to find a similar alternative and hoping to come up with 2 more dinners for our stay.

Thanks so much in advance for any comments/feedback! :D

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  1. Your list is generally a good one.

    Very near Beaune is the wonderful restaurant La Cabotte in Nuis St Georges. Dunno whether it is closed August.

    Another nearby place is the "farm-inn" Ferme de la Huchotte. Again, dunno if it is open August. And even when it is open, it keeps strange opening hours. It is first and foremost a farm.

    I don't know the restaurants in Beaune that you cited and don't really understand your objection. Do you mean the food seems good, but the ambiance is not what you want? Sadly I would not be too choosy with restaurants open in August.

    Beaune has a wonderful market. It also has good food shops and traiteurs open every day. I prefer to shop for a picnic in those places in late morning, then go picnic in one of so many nearby beautiful villages, instead of doing two meals a day. I love Burgundy cuisine, but it tends toward the rich side. 2 a day is too much.

    Paris. Atelier Etoile. In general I have found Joel Robuchon a less satisfactory experience than before. Not that it has gone downhill. But the ways in which it was once novel and attractive have now been done by other restaurants. But again, can't be too choosey re August.

    1 Reply
    1. re: Parigi

      Thanks Parigi! :) Let me look into La Cabotte and Ferme de la Huchotte (fingers crossed they are open in August).

      For the restaurants in Beaune, my concern with Le Benaton and L'Ecusson is that they seem a bit similar and also both more 'refined' (sorry, lack of a better word) from our original choices, which I understand serve 'simple' local classic food. Not sure if that's correct but that's the feeling I got from the research I've done. So I was hoping to maybe only go for one of the two and then try something a bit different on the second night.

      Though, like you say, I guess we can't be too choosy in August. :) Thanks again for your feedback!!!

    2. We had wonderful steak/frites in Paris at Aux Tonneaux des Halles on rue Montorgeuil in the 1er. I was trying to see if it's open in August, but had no luck finding anything so far. You could check...

      For the Beaune area, check all the threads on here,because there are quite a number of tables d'hote at area wineries that may be open in August.

      1 Reply
      1. re: ChefJune

        Thanks ChefJune! Aus Tonneaux des Halles looks exactly what i'm looking for!!! Contacting the restaurant to see if they're open in August - fingers crossed! :D

      2. A couple of alternatives to try in/near Beaune (not sure about August openings):
        In Beaune:
        L'Ptit Paradis - back on their game, this tiny place has the package for me - charm, food, service. Wine list good enough that I always find something.

        Caveau des Arches - under new ownership, but good transition from the prior man - a solid choice with good food, great cave ambience, & good service. Decent wine list.

        Le Benaton - good food & spot on service, but always leaves me a little flat & I'm not sure why.

        Outside of Beaune:
        La Cabbotte in Nuits St Georges (suggested by Parigi) is indeed great food! Served with a side of super haughty even if you speak French. If that doesn't bother you (& usually it doesn't bother me) then this is a good choice. Nice enough wine list too.

        Chef Coq outside of NSG on the road to Concoecur (great jams there at FruiRiuge!). is likely to be open & has great food, service, etc. I've only been at lunch, but it is very good.

        Chez Guy - a bit further afield in Gevrey-Chambertin is excellent. Food & service both. Wine list here is one of the best in terms of selection & not overpricing.

        Other thoughts:
        If you find yourself wanting simple but good food in a great people watching spot, try Le Carnot in Beaune. Many wines by the glass, good pizzas, awesome salad, and desserts the locals come for - not fancy, but good fun.

        Le Gourmandin, also in Beaune, is another option on the Place Carnot (where normally I'd stay away). Make a reservation for the back or you'll sit up front which is a bit crowded. Normally very good food, but have had one off visit in the last 10 or so. Wines overpriced.

        A place I haven't tried but friends who live there tell me is good is Table Guigogone (sp?). Also in Beaune.

        You might try emailing the Beaune tourist office for a list of openings. They are always very helpful & speak very good English. :)

        Have a great honeymoon!

        8 Replies
        1. re: DaTulip

          Thanks DaTulip for all your advice!! :) I'm now looking into L'Ptit Paradis and Caveau des Arches first to see if they're open...Le Carnot also sounds great because I'm sure we'll want some simple meals in between as well. :) Will report back! Thanks again!

          1. re: Gummy

            I think L'Ptit Paradis fits what you are looking for exactly. We also loved Le Benaton but it is a whole other experience, not stuffy though, just more "haute" cuisine.

          2. re: DaTulip

            Wonderful recommendations.
            There is one, relatively new restaurant, in one of the côteaux-de-Beaune wine towns, not far from Santennay, that was recommended on this board and sounds very interesting. But I can't find it. Help !

            1. re: Parigi

              It may have been either Volnaysien in Volnay or Aupres du Clocher In Pommard. The one in Pommard is newish. Another good bet in Santennay is Le Terroir.

              1. re: DaTulip

                I think it was Aupres du Clocher In Pommard. You're a Côte d'Or maven !

              2. re: Parigi

                Another thought is that it might be Le Bouzeron in Bouzeron. Fabulous lunch!

              3. re: DaTulip

                Has Gummy reported back and I missed it ? Very sorry. Meanwhile…

                My short review after a short week tagging along as the interpreter for a food journalist:

                Da Tulip, you rock. Thank you for the recommendation of Le P'tit Paradis. Like all my Burgundy friends, I found it even better than Ma Cuisine. But Ma Cuisine is unique for that forcément festive wine list.

                Aupres du Clocher In Pommard also totally delivered. Sort of like La Cabotte of Nuits St George - in food quality and price - but more refined.

                Lunched back to back at both Lameloise and Loiseau, in less than 30 hours. Loved both but would not recommend this pace. To enjoy them - or any 3-star - properly, I would actually suggest an optimal interval of at least a week betewen two meals, preferably a few months. Too close an interval dilutes the enjoyment, instead of enhancing it.
                The total of 6 stars deserves their own review. Just a summary here: all my friends tell me that they prefer Lameloise to Loiseau. My 2 friends and I had the oppositie experience. They were both stellar, but Loiseau - in food and in service and in pacing - is much better punctuated.

                6 stars in less than 30 hours really gets to us. We moaned and could not eat for days.

                Le Ferme de la Ruchotte was perfect for concluding the week. The farm setting was lovely, the room and its décor was charm itself. And the food !
                All of us were grateful to taste chicken that tastes of extra chicken-ness, with no sophisticated sauce and magic mist. Ditto the veg. What an ecstatic relief to taste turnip that looks and tastes - duh - like turnip, extra-so, and is not fussily sculpted into a swan or something. Loved the meal. Loved the quirky chef Frédéric Ménager, who first showed off his terroir superiority then showed off his tattoos. The most enjoyable meal of a week of culinary excess.

                If this eating continues one more week, I may just start to hate food.

                1. re: Parigi

                  What about that egg at LR breakfast?

              4. In case it'd be helpful to anyone, both L'Ptit Paradis and Caveau Des Arches are unfortunately closed in August for the summer. Still waiting to hear back from the others...will report back later. :)

                1. If you're in Paris in late August, try Auberge Pyrennes-Cevennes. We love Paul Bert too and have the same problem you do as we are going to Paris and Beaune in August