My Paris Restaurant Plan, plus an oyster question
Hi there, hoping to get some feedback on my restaurant plan and then ask a couple of questions.
Saturday July 13th: As a 40th birthday gift to my husband, I booked Jules Verne for a 1pm lunch. It is his first time in Paris, so although my advice has always been "Never Eat In A Tower" I made an exception.
Sunday July 14th: Here I am stumped. We are spending the day out at Versailles, and wanted to make it back to the city for a light supper and maybe watch the fireworks from a non-claustrophobic setting. However, I cannot find anything open on a Saunday. Should I simply give up and pack a picnic? Thoughts? I was determined to get us oysters from some delightful hole-in-the-wall place and eat on the street with a sneaky bottle of white, but everything is woefully shut. Is there anywhere in the 6th (or the 14th) that has excellent oysters (atmosphere not needed!)
Monday July 15th: Dinner at Josephine Chez Dumonet at 8pm. Hoping for the best here, I had a shaky convo with someone on the phone and am praying we will be able to reconfirm once I arrive.
Tuesday July 16th: Gastro Day! Lunch at Guy Savoy and dinner at Esens'all.
Any feedback before it becomes too tricky to book? My only stickler really is the Sunday, as all other meals we'll just wander and graze.
Yes, in typical France fashion, the place closes whimsically. We've encountered unannounced closings But this was mid-September.
I suppose the only real way is to try to call ahead.
Sunday in the 6th or 14th:
1) The legendary Rosebud on the rue Delambre in the 14th. An old-school time-warp delight that, after surviving phases as a tourist trap, is once again back on the to-do list for us locals. More enjoyable as a bar rather than a foodie-fab place, the food is however decent enough.
2) Point Bulles on the rue Clément. A small champagne bar/ resto with French/ Lebanese fusion tendancies i.e. quail kebabs. Usually live jazz on Sunday evenings. Excellent seafood and, in fact, there is an oyster bar offshoot -- which I like much more than Huîterie Régis-- on the rue des Quatre-Vents (unfortunately not open on Sunday).
If you can eat anything the same day as your lunch at Guy Savoy, you are my new idol. When there a few weeks ago, l went home and slept for three hours, the lunch was over 4 hours. Awesome though.
My husband and I just returned from an anniversary trip to Paris . . . here's what we found.
We also had a 1 pm lunch at the Jules Verne. It was less kitschy and more fun than I thought I was going to be. The food was good but not great, same for the service. I had the fricassee of chicken with crayfish for lunch and I might recommend choosing something else, it was disappointing. The view is all you might wish, and it is certainly great to skip the line and take the private elevator.
I don't know if this would fit into your trip, but the overall best dinner experience we had was at La Truffiere, 4 rue Blainville in the 5th arrondissment. Romantic setting, top-notch food, service that was almost telepathically attentive but not intrusive, a sommelier who absolutely went out of his way to make our meal exceptional--truly wonderful. Some relatives of ours were also there within the past year and felt the same.
I think you will be very happy at Josephine Chez Dumonet. Classic food with good-natured service, the old-fashioned French bistro of your dreams. I had the cassoulet, my husband had the boeuf bourgignon, we had the grand marnier souffle to finish, all great. Do get the half portions, or you will be sorry! They are available even if not marked on the menu (as in the case of the cassoulet).
About oysters: I don't know if it's open on the days you are looking for, but we had a great lunch at the Huitrerie Regis, 3 rue Montfaucon. Like you said, no atmosphere (which in a way, is an atmosphere) just delicious oysters and Sancerre.
Best of luck!
+1 on that. We went there about 4 times (first dinner, but then all lunches because it was such a good deal) before they got the star. The sommelier was not just talented, but very approachable and you can tell he loved his job! On 2 occasions, I sensed some tension among the staff, and once it was downright uncomfortable because they were right in my line of vision.
Regardless, we had similar experiences to Katarina, so I'm happy to hear the star hasn't thrown them off.