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Jun 5, 2013 02:45 PM

5eme arr. Or close with a 6 year old and a 92 yr. old Grammy

We're at Gay Lussac/Claude Bernard for 3 weeks. Looking for food ideas. The 6 yr.. old is happy with fries, pasta, pizza, hot dogs. We like bistro type food. One of our group lives for andouillette AAAAA and tripoux. One of our group is 92 and tires a bit from long trips away from the neighborhood so local finds would be terrific. The one thing we don't want is sushi.

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  1. It's a neighborhood for cheap Viet -- such as Thao Ly on rue Berthollet. And there's a good bakery nearby, Les Pains d'Alexis, at the corner of rue Flatters. For civilized dining, l'Auberge du 15 on rue de la Santé is one of my favs. La Closerie des Lilas is a Parisian institution, great for drinks on the terrace, cocktails at the bar next to the piano, and you could even eat. Les Papilles is a local must of foodies (not sure how high I hold it). Le Languedoc on bd de Port Royal was always popular with Jakedear -- and I trust him greatly. Christophe on rue Descartes has the best food, the best price, and the saddest restaurant. Les Pipos across the street is very typical, pittoresque, and good. Constant rue de Fleurus, on the other side of Luxembourg, has the best icecream in-the-world-and-those-who-say-otherwise-don't-know-what-they're-talking-about. Itinéraires and Terroirs Parisiens, down the mountain, are the two bistrots you don't want to miss in the neighborhood (and, while you're at it, check my map of the quartier latin and go to Dubois for cheese).The market on rue de Mouffetard is always fun even if it has nothing great. Marletti on rue Censier is great though. Le Pot O Lait is one of the very good creperies in town, also rue Censier. Dans les Landes Mais à Paris is awesomely awesome, one of the most reliable non fancy food and ambiance in town. For fancy and great wine list, see La Truffière on rue Blainville.

    10 Replies
    1. re: souphie

      Souphie, Nice summary, and so nice to see you back in full swing. "Le Languedoc on bd de Port Royal was always popular with Jakedear" -- but I have to admit we've not been in a while, because Mo does not quite share my high level of enthusiasm for it. On our last four trips we've planned to return, and by golly, I've vowed to do so this Sept! I love the herring in oil, and the confit de canard for two. Comfort food! But I can only hope that it and the Dubois family that runs it, lives up to our earlier memories. -- Jake

      1. re: Jake Dear

        I really love Le Languedoc too. Great cuisses de grenouilles.

      2. re: souphie

        Thank you, Guru. Courbette profonde.

        1. re: souphie

          Hmmmm, OP, are you at "my" hotel - the Elysa?

          Don't know how I've missed Pot o'Lait! I wouldn't return to Les Papilles. To me it was "just okay."

          We had a good (not great) but copious dinner at Cafe Mouffetard in November. Great qpr and not too far from you.

          1. re: ChefJune

            Just to say that we're not at that hotel. We rented an apartment for the 3 weeks. But out of curiosity are you here with kids (a playdate-oriented questions)?

            1. re: adorno

              kids are long grown... and sadly I'm not in Paris. Actually last time we stayed in an apartment near the jardin de Plantes. would love to know the location of yours! I love that part of the 5me.

              1. re: ChefJune

                Not that close to Jardin des Plantes. We're right at the top of Claude Bernard across the street from the rue d'Ulm.

                1. re: adorno

                  According to Google map, it's an 18-minute walk. Is even that too long a walk for your group?

                  1. re: Parigi

                    Do you mean "is it too long a walk to jardin des plantes for us"? If so, we did it the other day and it was closer to 45 min. with grammy (who has bundles of energy but still walks slow). We took a cab back, and I don't think we would try walking it again.

                  2. re: adorno

                    FWIW, excellent transportation at your location on the 27 or 21 bus. If Grams is not up to walking too far, you can jump the 27 northbound, get off at Quai Voltaire and catch the 95 or 39 southbound on St. Peres and get off at Rennes/St. Germain for an entirely new neighborhood with only, say, 2 blocks walking.

                    Or get off at rue des Ecoles and take any bus westbound to St. Surplice.

                    As my DH often says about taking buses in various directions, as they tell you on the airplane, "sometimes your closest exit (or bus) is behind you".

          2. Great neighborhood recs, soup.

            I agree about Les Papilles but have to say that we have taken a handful of American visitors there, all of whom have loved it: comfort food in a simple setting. Yes, most diners are American, but they seem to be a rather well behaved group. I do remember watching one husband who obviously had expected a more upscale meal and who hated every moment he was there. But the food sits well with most visitors.

            Ribouldingue just off the river would be my suggestion for andouillette, but I'll also mention that I had one of the best of my extensive andouillette experience at little Machon d'Henri last month. It was simply grilled "a la ficelle", no sauce, just crispy skin and juicy interior.

            1. Second the Pot O'Lait suggestion. I've often seen multi-generation families there,all enjoying the crepes. Also second Carl Marletti-gorgeous looking and divine tasting pastries..

              1. For sheer convenience, Le Vin Sobre on the corner of rue Feuillantines and rue Saint-Jacques... a 2-min walk from your place... always on Figaroscope's list of the 10 best steak et frites in Paris but, in my opinion, somewhat inconsistent when it comes to other items on the menu... and a minor caveat which should not be viewed as a disqualification: one eye-rolling waiter is sometimes not as helpful to tourists as he should be (an attempt, I think, to hide his poor English)... but nice terrace for the kid. Proximity also makes Le Mauzac on the rue de de l'Abbé de l'Epée worth considering... a wine bar with grub... usually quite good but nothing remarkable... fab terrace/ ultra-charming setting. If grammy can manage a 10-minute stroll, I'll add my "i-like" for Le Languedoc on the boulevard Port-Royal and just a little further, le Petit Pascal on the rue Pascal at the boulevard Port-Royal, one of my favourite bistros du quartier. Maybe a minute or two less walking, the delightful Au Bon Coin on the rue Collégiale between the boulevard Saint-Marcel and rue Moulin à Fer... recently a change of owners so ignore reviews that are more than 6 months old.

                Maybe best enjoyed if not accompanied by the kid, the Piano Bar at the Closerie des Lilas on the boulevard Montparnasse... a place for sparkling and feeling adult... love it!

                With a 6-year old and an ancient grammy, I would get around Paris by bus and taxi, NOT métro. There's a bus stop on the rue Gay-Lussac at the corner with rue Claude Bernard so that makes it even more convenient. From the stop on the odd-number side of the street, the #21 and #27 will both take you to central Paris and will give you more eating options without much walking. ie. Les Papilles on the rue Gay-Lussac... just one stop on the bus; Le Rostand on the place Edmond Rostand next to the Luxembourg gardens... nothing special except a great location, great peoplewatching,a palpable sense of being in Paris, and decent brasserie fare; the #21 bus to the Chatelet stop on the rue de Rivoli for the classic bistro Au Vieux Comptoir on the rue Lavandières-Sainte-Opportune and then taxi back home.

                1. I'm certain if it fits the bill, not far from Jardin des Halles on 67 rue d'Argout, is an adorable spot called Adele's Family.