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Restaurant Boucherie Hugo Desnoyer: Best meal of 2013

John Talbott May 29, 2013 08:10 AM

Much as I've loved testing out Les Tablettes de JL Nomicos, 110 Taillevent, the Sergent Recruteur, Petit Champerret, Les Premices, Felicity Lemon, 6 Paul Bert and Les Climats - the Restaurant Boucherie Hugo Desnoyer gets the brass ring, at least so far in 2013.
It's at 28, rue du Docteur-Blanche in the 16th, 01.46.47.83.00 and is open weekdays non-stop between 9 AM and 6 PM, starting to take orders for lunch at 10.
Our bill today with a platter of charcuterie and terrine of pate de campagne that come to everyone, a cote de boeuf with great fries, a dessert, bottle of wine and two coffees - was 125 E (but we took half the beef home for future dining.)

  1. Delucacheesemonger May 29, 2013 11:16 AM

    That, upon my return, has my name all over it, thanks

    1. Parnassien May 29, 2013 11:36 AM

      Indeed a must-do by all accounts.

      I wonder if you have also tried the Boucherie les Provinces on the rue Aligre in the 12th and, if so, how does it compare ? The first prototype boucherie à manger (as far as I know), 1/3rd the price of Hugo Desnoyer, and pretty high on my i-like list when prowling the quartier Aligre.

      3 Replies
      1. re: Parnassien
        John Talbott May 29, 2013 12:51 PM

        No, I'm embarrassed to say I have not; so many places, so little time; but from you Parnassien, It'll go on the list.
        How is it compared to the Atelier Vivanda?

        1. re: John Talbott
          Parnassien May 29, 2013 01:47 PM

          L'Atelier Vivanda is much more of a proper restaurant. I'm a big BIG fan of whatever chef Benallal does and, dieu soit loué, my office is nearby so I have lots of frequent of frequent flier miles there. I do, however, bring my smelling salts in case I'm tempted to browse the very expensive wine list.

          Boucherie Les Provinces in the 12th is much more casual, less styled, way more basic, much cheaper, and in the end just a mini-resto annex to the very busy and very good boucherie.

          If obliged to choose one over the other for the sheer quality of the food, l'Atelier Vivanda. For expressing the spirit of the quartier, Les Provinces.

          1. re: Parnassien
            John Talbott May 30, 2013 12:01 AM

            "L'Atelier Vivanda is much more of a proper restaurant" I know, I've been, no question, and right now Desnoyer is stools and table d'hote; but I was more interested in your comparison of the meat. For me as good as the Atelier was/is, Desnoyer was nigh perfection.

      2. ChefJune May 29, 2013 11:48 AM

        OhBoy! This is going on my To-Do List!

        1. p
          parisjo May 29, 2013 03:45 PM

          Another to add to my ever growing list ~ just means I have to keep coming back to Paris over and over again!

          Off to read your blog,

          Jo

          1. t
            theskyflyer Jun 2, 2013 05:49 AM

            Is it worth swapping Le Severo for this?

            1 Reply
            1. re: theskyflyer
              John Talbott Jun 2, 2013 07:00 AM

              Well, much as I like Severo and Le Bis de .... and their butcher-owner William Bernet, I think it's worth going to the source itself at least once. You really cannot go wrong with any of the three. But Desnoyer's presence is a plus. He's a sweetie.

            2. Delucacheesemonger Oct 29, 2013 08:52 AM

              Finally got to this object of my desire today for lunch. The meal was perfect, we ate the charcuterie plate,a cotes de boeuf with small buttered potatoes and a dessert with bottles of water and a single glass of wine.
              Monsieur Desnoyer was very much in presence, cleaning and clearing tables and being very helpful to all customers. l had spoken to him before entering that l was there to see how his kitchen did his beef as opposed to L'Ami Louis.
              l went to compare the beef to two other places in Paris that serve Desnoyer beef, CLAJ and L'Ami Louis. The hunk of beef was served uncut as requested and Hugo lent us an enormous Percival knife to carve the beast. Cooked perfectly with a little less char than Louis but very minor issue.
              When my friend and l ordered the CdB Hugo came over to let us know that two different styles were offered, sort of a choice and a prime piece. We went for the prime and were not disappointed, at 145 euros.
              This however brought the price up to Louis level so l would have to call the beef off a tie.
              With what was listed above, charcuterie, water for two, the CdB, potatoes, 2 desserts, one glass of wine, one coffee, total was 185 euros.

              1. f
                francaise Oct 29, 2013 12:36 PM

                On your recommendation, we ate there recently and had such a wonderful lunch, and were totally seduced by Hugo's generosity and spirit! Such a rare thing these days. I am writing it up in the next few days on our Paris Odyssey. Thanks, John. Oh, he asked how we found him, and I told him John Talbott wrote that it was his best meal to date of 2013, and he grinned from ear to ear, and I thought he may have even blushed.

                1. h
                  hnoeld Feb 5, 2014 01:41 AM

                  I must lament to a group that will feel my pain...I'm a first-timer in Paris the week of Feb 16-22. Totally last minute, hitching a ride with a friend who is headed there for work. This place is at the top of my list for the trip...only to call at 4:00 am EST and discover they will be closed that week and the next. I'm hopeful the boucherie on Rue Boulevard will be open during that time, so I can at least fill my bag with treasures to eat elsewhere!

                  And John, your blog has been a godsend to me as my friend's hotel is in the 9th. Thank you for providing me a solid list of places to go! I'm calling this trip my "Paris dry run."

                  1 Reply
                  1. re: hnoeld
                    John Talbott Feb 5, 2014 02:30 AM

                    You're all welcome; but eating there and in the 9th with the Queen of Feng shui, was certainly my pleasure.

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