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May 23, 2013 03:51 AM

Tripe in Genoa? Need suggestions NOW!

I would love to try some tripe while I am in Genoa (which is NOW!!!). Are there some suggestions from the Chowhounders?

While I'm at, what is your best suggestion for salumeria? I am staying in the old city very close to Sa Pesta (same street). I ate there yesterday and enjoyed the trofie very much, although still debating on the cima. It wasn't terrible but not exciting. Today will go see how I do with Da Maria, also recommended on this forum as a hole in the wall place. :)

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  1. That's my trofie al pesto from Sa Pesta - delicious!

    1. We had excellent tripe last fall at Il Genovese, a modern restaurant cooking traditional ligurian dishes on Via Galata, across the street from the Mercato Orientale. Also had some amazing mushroom dishes. Very friendly welcome, a bustling place and the market is very worth a visit. I think the owner is also connected with the annual regional pesto festival but my info may be out of date. There is a specialist olive oil store (related also I believe) down the street a bit which is worth visiting for the local oils.

      Anyway do try

      Ive been very late putting up an account of my visit to Genoa because my notes were lost - I will try to find and post tonight.

      Genoa is wonderful, enjoy!

      7 Replies
      1. re: jen kalb

        Here's an article about Fred Plotkin, Liguria and pesto that mentions Roberto Panizza, the owner of Il Genovese. The pesto there was good, by the way tho I dont care much for the trofie shape.

        1. re: jen kalb

          " I dont care much for the trofie shape."

          I don't either. The only time I eat trofie is when it is made with chestnut flour, and then I just basically toss it with some ricotta.

          The best way to eat a pesto pasta is, for me, to eat with wide flat rectangular noodles, either called mandilli or lasagna, or lasagnette, which are wide ribbony noodles, often with ruffled edges. It is also okay with trenette, which is more like a linguine or spaghetti.

        2. re: jen kalb

          i like the idea of a modern restaurant that may try their hand at the traditional. it sometimes makes for some interesting results. i find the italians (well, most europeans!) so reluctant to stray from what they've always done. tonight we tried da maria. quite an interesting and fun experience. full now.

          1. re: Calam1ty

            its modern and airy in style but the food is fully traditional. Do go to the market across the street - it is amazing!

            1. re: Calam1ty

              "i find the italians (well, most europeans!) so reluctant to stray from what they've always done."

              I don't know where else in Europe you've been, but that hardly describes most of the Europe I've visited.

              I wouldn't describe Italians as "so reluctant" to stray. It may sound like an overly fine distinction, but after eating the local Ligurian cuisine every day for 5 years, I don't want other food. This is really good food, and I don't wish for something else. Might be hard for someone else, especially if you come from a culture that prizes novelty, to understand that feeling. It's not that the monogamist is "so reluctant to stray," but rather that true compatibility gives a satisfaction the natural result of which is that one simply is no longer restless and searching.

              I am in America right at the moment, and have been watching the Food network, and I am sort of stunned to remember how much energy Americans put into cooking up something new for dinner every night, their cupboards deep with bottled spices. I much prefer living in Italy and eating pretty much the same fresh food week by week, with seasonal variety. That's it. Different palates, food attitudes. I hope Italy never changes or buckles under to the frantic, rootless culture of globalization.

              1. re: barberinibee

                thanks for this reply. so interesting! it's very true too. i am always looking for new things to eat and cook. it's an adventure for me. i really appreciate your take on it and will carry that thought as i visit other restaurants and countries. :)

            2. re: jen kalb

              Here is the address for the EVO shop in the Via Galata

              For shopping in the Old City, best food shopping experience is on the Via Soziglia neighborhood, not fancy but lively, with its old fashioned butchers, fruit venders, etc. the Pasticceria Klanbgutl is a highlight with their signature Torta Zena pastry, exquisite. There is also a famous old store, Romanengo with its candied pastries. Up at the top of the hill, near the UN Heritage area, (Via Garibaldi) is Pasticceria Profumo (we looked for but could not find their gelateria in this neighborhood)

            3. you should have the farinata at Sa Pesta! We didnt go there because we had had farinata coming out of our ears in chiavari in the preceding days, but it looked good at Sa Pesta and is definitely worth a try. We didnt care for the cima we had either - I think this would be a dish to have from a luxury source not a budget restaurant.

              I might mention that we had a nice lunch not far from where you are, at Ombre Rosse where you can sit in a pleasant garden across the street - a rarity in the crowded old city of Genoa.

              3 Replies
              1. re: jen kalb

                thanks, jen! i will at least check out the counter at sa pesta. it's so close i have no excuse!

                1. re: Calam1ty

                  yeah, you can buy the farinata and other stuff by the piece. - do try - the smoky chickpea flavor is great. - sometimes its cruncny (like on the edges, sometimes creamier - I dont know if you can ask for well done - ben cotto - here but you could always point at a well done bit)

                2. re: jen kalb

                  "We didnt care for the cima we had either - I think this would be a dish to have from a luxury source not a budget restaurant."

                  Cima is just a bland dish, no matter who cooks it. The best cima I have eaten I've bought in macellerie or gastronomie, not necessarily "luxury", but just talented.

                  If one is going to eat meat in Genova and its surrounds, it is probably best to stick to the local salume, genovese or olcese, which are highly flavored with garlic and peppercorns.