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Ba Shan, Bar Shu, or Baozi Inn tonight?

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These three Fuchsia Dunlop-advised restaurants focus on different Chinese regional cuisines (Hunan, Sichuan, and northern -- respectively). Does any stand out more than the others on quality and authenticity? I'm familiar with those cuisines and with her cookbooks but will only have time to try one of the three. Which to choose?

Thanks.

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  1. were i you, i'd get the mashed aubergine and farm house pork at ba shan, then walk over and get the water boiled beef plus whatever else grabs my fancy at bar shu.