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Marais recommendations (with kids)

Hi all,

We will be renting an apartment in the Marais (near Place des Vosges) for 6 nights with our two school-age children. I am looking for recommendations for bakeries, supermarkets and the like where we can pick up prepared food for our apartment.

I have already noted Gerard Mulot from a previous CH thread to pick up breakfast viennoiseries and lunch sandwiches. I plan to make reservations for Cafe Breizh (my girls would LOVE to eat crepes) and also at Petit Bofinger (my 8 year old really loves choucroute).

I know it is is not in the Marais but I am also tempted to hit La Mosquee de Paris for either their tea room or lunch one day since I love Maghrebian cuisine and we don't really have it in our city.


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  1. Forgot to add: I am also wondering if having a falafel at one of the nearby places (L'As du Falafel?) is worth it. We have excellent Lebanese food in our city so I am not sure these places are really special.

    1 Reply
    1. re: jacolis

      The schwarma and felafel are very very good at those stands on the Rue des Rosiers... however, be advised that there are lines and no place to sit and eat them, unless you trek back to the Place des Vosges with them. (Might get cold that way).

      But it's a nice snack if you missed lunch...

      Good American-style hot dogs at a little stand on the corner of Rue de Vielle du Temple and Rue de Roi de Sicile. He has weird hours, like open at 4PM until the wee hours.

    2. Rue de Bretagne is full of wonderful food shops. Ditto the gigantic Richard Lenoir markets, whose hours you can look up easily on the internet.
      The marché Enfant Rouges have food stalls for lunch. Very nice on warmer days. It has a couscous stand that is not bad at all.
      I love love love the Mosquée de Paris. Great place for tea. I have not liked its food so much. One mainly goes for the enchanting atmosphere.

      1. We are in the Marais right now, staying in an apartment on Rue Elzevir. We had a falafel and shawarma's to go our first night here. Pretty good and a very filling meal for reasonable prices. Thought you might like this link for ideas for kids.


        Defintely check out Breizh cafe for crepes. We had lunch yesterday at Nanashi, which was a welcome change from all the rich, but delicious food we have been eating in Italy and Paris. Also, very good coffee at The Broken Arm. Today we are going to Rosé Bakery and drinks and small plates at Le Mary Celeste tonight.

        1. If you don't want to stroll up to rue de Bretagne, rue St Antoine has plenty of food shops including a supermarket. Richard Lenior market is great on Sunday mornings.
          Instead of the Petit Bofinger why not go across the street to Bofinger for the beautiful ground floor dining room.
          Agree that the Mosquee is wonderful for tea; it is very crowded during late afternoon.

          1. Have tea at La Mosquée de Paris but don't eat there. It is not good, never was, and shows no sign of ever improving.

            If you want good Maghrebi food, there's Hamadi (Tunisian) and L'Atlas (Moroccan) nearby.
            And if you really love food from that region, I recommend that you try the Tunisian-Jewish places just North of the Grands Boulevards, in an area contained between boulevard Montmartre, rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, rue Richer and rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière. Snack shops, caterers, restaurants, you name them.
            There's another interesting cluster of those Jewish-Tunisian restaurants on boulevard de Belleville, on the North-side sidewalk, between Belleville and Couronnes métro stations.
            Simple, generous, sunny food with lots of fried things.

            2 Replies
            1. re: Ptipois

              Merci Ptipois. I would be especially interested in trying one of these TUnisian-Jewish places you have mentioned above.

              PBSF: Do you recommend Bofinger over Petit Bofinger. I wasn't sure if we should hit Petit Bofinger as it might be more child friendly (note we would be eating at 7 pm).

              1. re: jacolis

                Decor wise, Bofinger definitely has it over Le Petit Bofinger. It is one of the main reason to dine there. Bofinger is a bustling brasserie, therefore, I would not worry about it being child friendly. And at 7pm, there is usually plenty of room for everyone. Make a reservation for the ground floor and don't let them steer you to the bland and low ceiling upstair dining room.

            2. Try googling Paris market street or some such. I think there is a good one near or on Bastille, but I don't know what days it operates. And yes lots of delis to the W of L'As du Fallaffel.

              As for restos, my kids at ages 9 and 13ish enjoyed around the Marais: Pain Vin Fromages (fun to have fondue!), but also Ambassade d'Auvergne, Bourguignon du Marais, and esp Le Train Bleu passed muster. TB is grand for the $s. And they won't know the food doesn't quite match the décor and service.

              2 Replies
              1. re: danlind3

                "Le marché de la Bastille (XIIème), installé sur le terre-plein du boulevard Richard-Lenoir, entre les rues Amelot et Saint-Sabin, compte 115 commerçants. Il se tient tous les jeudis de 7h à 14h30 et les dimanches de 7h à 15h."

                1. re: John Talbott

                  The Bastille market has a good crepe stand - both sweet crepes and savory buckwheat galettes. The paella guy is pretty decent, for street food...not crazy about the other ethnic offerings here, though. Note: the hours John posted are "correct", however, the market really starts to wind down around 13h30, so it's best to go before then.

                  Le Moulin de Rosa, corner rue de Turenne and rue du Foin, has very good butter croissants - better than Mulot's - as well as good breads and other deliciousness...

              2. Hi all,

                Thought I would post back on our trip now that we are back in N. America. Thanks to all of you for your suggestions. We absolutely loved staying in the Marais area.

                By far our favourite boulangerie was the Moulin de Rosa (concur that it was better and cheaper than Gerard Mulot!). We also had a yummy lunch at the North African stall in the Marche des enfants rouges (couscous with kefta and merguez, salade marocaine and stuffed sardines).

                We were pretty tired on our fist night so we ate dinner at Chez Hanna (one of the falafel/Israeli type restaurants on the rue des Rosiers but it was sit-down). We had a quick lunch on our first jet-lagged day at Clasico near Pl des Voges for empanadas, salad and dulce de leche ice cream.

                We had two more dinners in the Marais: Bofinger (got rezzies right under the "coupole" as recommended!) and Cafe Breizh. Both were delicious. My kids especially liked the choucroute at Bofinger (we got one with the meats and one with seafood) and it was the first time they had an "ile flottante" for dessert. My only quibble with Breizh was that it was the first and only time we had rude service in our 2 week trip to France!

                Other dinners we picked up food from the nearby grocery store or from the great places on rue de Bretagne as recommended.

                We had lunches out depending on our sights. The kids loved the Jardins de Luxembourg and we had a nice lunch at the Pavillon de la Fontaine. Another lunch was Petite Venise at Versailles (surprisingly good considering it was in tourist trap vicinity). One dinner was at Le Relais de l'Entrecote after hitting the sales on the Champs Elysees. I know it is a tourist trap but the girls loved the idea of a restaurant with only steak/frites on the menu. :)

                given other family obligations we did not have time to explore other neighbourhoods - esp for Magrehbian cuisine. Next trip I suppose!

                Un gros merci a tous!