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Week in Burgundy - Need Help

rico1919 May 18, 2013 10:14 AM

Hello fellow chowhounds. Long time reader, first time poster and I am in need of help. I leave for a week in Burgundy a week from yesterday and have been buried at work with no time to research food with my usual diligence. My wife has planned most (read: all) of the rest of the trip and I had one assignment: food. I am failing and could use the help of some experts.

Our home base will be a little off the beaten path in Corsaint. The plan is to take day trips to the following locations: Beaune, Lyon, Chablis, Dijon, and a day in neighboring villages to Corsaint. I am always willing to go out of my way to eat a must-do meal but these are our planned locations to visit. Please help me best take advantage of this epicenter of food and not feel my wife's wrath. Thanks.

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  1. Parigi May 18, 2013 10:23 AM

    My fave restos in or near the places you cited:
    My Cuisine, Beaune
    Ferme la Ruchotte, Bligny sur Oouche
    La Cabotte, Nuits St Georges
    Reservation essential. I would reserve immediately.

    4 Replies
    1. re: Parigi
      rico1919 May 18, 2013 11:46 AM

      Thank you for the quick reply. Reservation requests have been sent. Here's to hoping that I am not too late.

      Do you have any recommendations on how to best get a reservation? I went the email route for Ma Cuisine and Ferme la Ruchotte as they did not have a formal reservation system that I could find. Is a call advisable or does email typically work? Thanks again.

      1. re: rico1919
        Parigi May 18, 2013 12:05 PM

        Ferme de la Ruchotte is very small operation, and it is first and foremost a farm, with a side-business of restaurant only one or two nights a week. I would call instead.
        In general, I would call insead of email for the kind of small, market-driven restaurants that I like. The more prominent or starred restaurants are the ones that have the money to run a website with an efficient reservation system. Definitely a minority of a minority in the French resto scene.

        1. re: Parigi
          rico1919 May 18, 2013 12:28 PM

          That is what I figured. I appreciate the recommendations as that is exactly the type of dining that I also prefer. I actually have already received an email back from la ruchotte and couldn't be more excited for dinner there. Farm to table food is my favorite and that looks like perfection. I will be sure to report back and if there are any other similar recommendations that you have, I would love to hear them. Thanks again.

          1. re: Parigi
            mangeur May 18, 2013 08:59 PM

            We handled all of our reservation dealings with La Ruchotte via email. No problems whatsoever. In fact, unless one is phone-fluent in French, email often is the clearest way to communicate.

      2. j
        jorn77 May 18, 2013 11:59 AM

        Try Pot d`Ertain in L'ISLE SUR SEREIN not far from Chablis. Amazing winelist, very lowpriced. The food is classic french. The owner is close friends with many of the best wine producers in France.
        You can also try Restaurant les Millesimes in Noyers-sur-Serein. Vey nice restaurant, good winelist good and local ingridients. Family business, the father runs the charcutier shop.

        1. ChefJune May 20, 2013 08:12 AM

          In Chablis, we love Hostellerie des Clos, and it is a lovely, reasonably priced place to stay, as well. It is virtually next door to William Fevre -- convenient for tasting! But if you can arrange it with your wine merchant, I strongly recommend a trip out to La Chapelle Vaupelteigne to taste the wines of Samuel Billaud. Imho on a par with the legendary Chablis' at quite a bit less $$.

          2 Replies
          1. re: ChefJune
            rico1919 May 22, 2013 07:57 PM

            Thank you very much for the recommendation. Always enjoy reading your posts which have been immensely helpful. We are doing a 3 hour wine tour while we are in Chablis and I am hoping to make it to Hostellerie des Clos afterwards. We are going to check with our guide for timing/location and book accordingly.

            In perusing other posts, it looks like you know a good deal about Lyon. We will be there on a Wednesday and my two must-dos are a trip around Les Halles Paul Bocuse and a meal at Daniel et Denise. I was drooling over Troisgros but not only is it waaay too much to pack into a single day with the train ride from Burgundy but also closed on Wednesdays.

            Do you have any other recommendations or am I biting off too much with the market, D&D, and another all in one day? I was in Lyon about 3 years ago and my wife somehow coerced me into skipping a meal. I swore on everything holy I would never do that again.

            Given that D&D is a bouchon, I was thinking something different (Braisserie, Bistro, or Fine Dining). My last visit included Leon de Lyon which I was actually disappointed with. Not sure if it is because I went with the prix fixe or just an off night but I was disappointed to be sure after all of the rave reviews around these parts. Anyways, any other recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

            1. re: rico1919
              ChefJune May 23, 2013 07:43 AM

              We did not have a "regular" meal after our lunch at Daniel et Denise. It would have been overkill, and undermined the greatness of that lunch -- my favorite of the whole trip! [I'm not telling you to skip a meal, but you are going to taste a whole bunch of goodies at Les Halles.] I would bring back some St. Marcellin and Reblochon from Fromagier Renee Richard and have that for the evening meal, along with some charcuterie you find there, a good bread, and a bottle of local wine.

              If another restaurant meal is "equired," I'd choose a bistro (such as La Voute, Chez Lea) where you can order just a plat, if you like.

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