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May 18, 2013 04:08 AM

Tour of Paris Must-eats (work in progress)

For an upcoming Paris visit (my first real visit for food and drink), I am working on a list of must-east around town. We plan to walk around town and eat and drink. To maximize sampling, we are focusing on smaller items that eat's easy to pop in somewhere for: cheese, charcuterie, chocolate, baked goods, etc. Also, for evenings, we are thinking of wine bars with good food, again so we can hit more than one in a night. I've been researching this site and others. And, while the list remains incomplete, it is far enough along so begin soliciting input. Thanks in advance for your help. What is missing? What needs to go? Also, if I were to add one affordable sit-down restaurant, what should it be? L'Ami Jean?


Julien – Croissant, Baguette
Address: 75 rue St. Honoré, 75001
Nearest transport: Les Halles (4) or Louvre-Rivoli (1)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 42 36 24 83

Verjus Wine Bar with great food
47 rue de Montpensier, 75001
Hours: Lunch Tuesday-Friday 12:30-2:30pm; Dinner Monday-Friday, 6pm-11pm; closed Saturday and Sunday

Le Rubis – Wine bar with good food
10 rue Marché Saint Honoré

Jean Paul Hevin –Hot Chocolate - Chocolate
Address: 231 rue St. Honoré, 75001
Nearest transport: Tuileries (1)
Hours: Shop Monday-Saturday 10am-7:30pm; Chocolate Bar Monday-Saturday 12pm-7pm; Closed Sunday


Frenchie Wine Bar (Bar a Vins)
6 rue du Nil, 75002
Hours: Monday-Friday, 7p.m.-10:30p.m. – arrive early to get a seat

Gyoza Bar – Japanese dumpling bar
Address: 56 Passage des Panoramas, 75002
Nearest transport: Grands Boulevards (8, 9)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Saturday; closed Sunday


134 RDT – Best croissant?
Address: 134 rue de Turenne, 75003
Nearest transport: République (5, 8, 9, 11)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 42 78 04 72

Genin – #1 Chocolate, Mille Feuille
133, rue de Turenne
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 11am-7pm; Closed Monday

Gerard Mulot - renowned fruit tarts
Address: 76 rue de Seine, 75006
Hours: Monday-Sunday 6:45am-8:00pm; Closed Wednesday

Breizh Café – crepes
Address: 109 rue Vielle du Temple
Hours: Close Monday and Tuesday


Berthillon – ice cream
Address: 31 rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile, 75004
Hours: Closed Monday, Closed Tuesday

Pozetto – best gelato?
Address: 39 rue Roi de Sicile, 75004
Nearest transport: St. Paul (1)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 42 77 08 64


Les Papilles – deli, wine bar, set price restaurant, very informal
Address: 30 rue Gay Lussac, 75005
Nearest transport: Luxembourg (RER B)
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday

Laurent – Cheese
47 boulevard Saint-Germain

Raimo – classic French ice cream
Address: 65 boulevard Saint Germain, 75005
Nearest transport: Cluny – La Sorbonne (10)

Eric Kayser – Best Baguette?
Address: 14 rue Monge, 75005
Nearest transport: Maubert-Mutualité (10)
Hours: Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 44 07 17 81

Boulangerie L’Essentiel Mouffetard - Croissant
2 Rue Mouffetard, 75005


Patrick Roger – Chocolate – get the bars!
Address: 108 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10)
Hours: Every day 10:30am-7:30pm

Verot – Chacruterie shop
3 rue Notre Dame des Champs,

Pierre Herme – maracons; Ispahan macaron
Address: 72 rue Bonaparte, 75006)
Hours: Open every day 10am-7pm

Poilane – bakery famous for sourdough rounds Pain Poilane, and apple tartlets
Address: 49 boulevard de Grenelle, 75015
Hours: Closed Sunday

Grom – Italy gelato in Paris
Address: 81 rue de Seine, 75006
Hours: Open every day
Da Rosa
62 rue de Sein
Eric Kayser
Address: 10 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10)
Hours: Closed Sunday

Barthelemy – cheese; 30-month Ossau-Iraty
Address: 51 rue de Grenelle, 75007
Nearest transport: rue du Bac (12)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 8:30 a.m.-1 p.m. and 4 p.m. – 7:15 p.m.; closed Sunday and Monday

L’atlas hamadi

Fromagerie Quatrehomme
62 rue Sévres, 7th arrondisement (00 33 1 47 34 33 45)
Michel Chaudun - chocolate
Address: 149 rue de l’Université, 75007
Nearest transport: Invalides (8, 13, RER C)
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 9:30-7:30


La Tête dans les Olives - olive oils, gourmet items, six seats for lunch reservations required
2 rue St. Marthe, 75010

Urfa Durum – kebab in flat bread, to go
Address: 56 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010
Nearest transport: Château d’Eau (4)
Hours: Open every day

Du Pain et des Idees – pain de amis, Bayonne-Reblochon-figue
Address: 34 rue Yves Toudic, 75010
Hours: Monday-Friday 6:45am-8pm; Closed Saturday, Closed Sunday


Bones- charcuterie restaurant
43 rue Godefroy Caviagnac

Le Dauphin – wine bar of chef Inaki Aizpitarte, small plates haute cuisine
Address: 131 avenue Parmentier
Nearest transport: Goncourt (11)
Hours: Dinner, Tuesday-Saturday; lunch, Tuesday-Friday; Closed Sunday and Monday

Bisto Paul Bert –
18 rue Paul Bert, 75011
Nearest transport: Faidherbe-Chaligny (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday

L Entree des Artistes - cocktails
Address: 8 rue de Crussol, 75011
Nearest transport: Oberkampf (5, 9)
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 7pm-2am; closed Sunday
Reservations: Reservations not necessary

Septime Cave
Address: 3 rue Basfroi, 75011
Nearest transport: Charonne (9) or Ledru Rollin (8)
Hours: 10am-10pm Tuesday through Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday


Ble Sucre madeleines, millefeuille, caramel ice cream,
Address: 7 rue Antoine Vollon, 75012
Hours: Close Monday


Le Severo – steak, tartare, charcuterie
Address: 8 rue des Plantes, 75014
Nearest transport: Mouton Duvernet or Alesia (4)
Hours: Closed Saturday, Sunday


Des Gâteaux & du Pain – Bakery
63 bd Pasteur
Croissant. Pain au chocolat (chowhound). Specialities include the chocolate hazelnut cake, the chorizo loaf, and the religieuse au caramel, a caramel cream-filled puff made with choux pastry and covered with a sugary yellow glaze.
Hours: Wednesday-Monday 8am-8pm; Closed Tuesday

Laurent - Cheese
2 Rue Lourmel,

Verot - Chacruterie
7 rue Lecourbe


Coquelicot - baguettes
Address: 24 rue des Abbesses, 75018
Nearest transport: Abbesses (12)
Hours: Closed Monday

Gontran Cherrier – rye bread, sandwiches
Address: 22 rue Caulaincourt, 75018
Hours: Monday-Saturday 7:30am-8:30pm, Sunday 7:30am-7:30pm; Closed Wednesday

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  1. We tried some of the "Du Pains et des Idées" stuff.

    Croissant and Chocolatines : very good.
    Small savory buns : excellent (with lardons, goat cheese, ...)
    Small sweet roulades : excellent (nougat pistachio, ... )

    1. You do realise lots of these are shops? Bakeries in Paris rarely have space to eat in, there are exceptions but they are few and far between. So to enjoy you list you need a place to take your purchase to to enjoy.

      Interesting you have Verjus with "great" food but Rubis with simply "good" - Verjus is OK if you want US food in a Paris but Rubis is the real deal.

      Rue Petite Champs roughly from Juvenilles/Verjus through the Frenchie is a great street for wine bars including Willi's plus lots of newer options - don't miss investigating the passages.

      1 Reply
      1. re: PhilD

        Thanks for the feedback. Yes, aware they are shops. And, we will either finds places to stop and enjoy, or eat on the fly.

        None of the subjective words are mine -- just a synthesis of other reports. Useful to have your additional feedback, though.


      2. You can move Gérard Mulot from the 3rd to the 6th.

        "Atlas Hamadi" means nothing. One is L'Atlas and the other one is Chez Hamadi and they're different restaurants. One in the 6th, the other one in the 5th.

        By "Laurent — cheese" you probably mean Laurent Dubois.

        This all looks like a selection of choices to me, not really an inventory of "what's best". So there's a little arbitrary feeling to it.

        5 Replies
        1. re: Ptipois

          Not sure what you mean by "selection of choices" vs. "inventory of what's best". Perhaps the problem is that it's a work in progress and not a very good one! It's a synthesis of the research I've done thus far with the aim of doing the best job as possible as finding the best tastes during our trip to Paris.

          At the end of our visit, I hope to create report back with a list of everything we tasted. I want that list to include as many of Paris' best tastes as possible, without having to go to many (or any) sit-down restaurants. If you have any additional guidance, it is very much encouraged. Thanks.

          1. re: John Galt

            It is not bad at all as works in progress go...

            But it is a perfect illustration of the recently-addressed fact that chowhounders seem to gravitate around a limited number of places and there's far more to explore than meets the reader's eye.

            A "complete" list following those criteria would cover several pages, actually they make guidebooks with that sort of information.

            1. re: Ptipois

              Doing as much research as I can, and certainly don't want to gravitate around a limited number of places if better food is elsewhere. I'll be there three nights. Lots of food to fit into a short time. All ears.

              1. re: John Galt

                Due respect, that's the wrong approach. There will almost always be better food somewhere, and trying to organize your time around a purchase of the best places will prevent you from enjoying much, not to mention your stomach might not be up to the task. At least, that's what I observe with many visitors and clients.

                My advice: pick some places that tickled your fancy (the ones you remember when you don't look at your notes), have the kind of list you have per neighborhood, and just play it by ear.

                I've been living here all my life looking for the best food, and I still don't most of the places people talk about.

          2. re: Ptipois

            There is a Gérard Mulot on rue du Pas de la Mule -- but it's in the 4th, right. Also one on Rue de la Glacière in the 13th.

          3. In the 5me, you're missing Oteiza on Blvd St. Michel for amazing Basque charcuterie. And i'm virtually certain the "Laurent" you mentioned for cheese is Laurent Dubois in the Place Maubert. The 3-year-old Cmote is divine! Curious are you planning a meal at Les Papilles? It's a restaurant, you know.

            In the 6th, I think the Poilane shop you really want is on the rue Cherche Midi. Make sure you get the right Poilane! (there are 2 brothers) and on your way to THAT Poilane, you really ought to stop into Maison du Chocolat and sample some truffles!

            1. Impossible to make such a list for this city, we are back from another visit, and each time you may have new surprises, or old timers that may dissappoint on a certain day .
              I think mapping your areas of interest is most important - both geographical and food wise.
              I think you should concentrate on a partial list cause no way to cover those crazy lists of summeries.
              My personal "must visit" list currently for fancy patisserie will include Genin, Des Reves (we had truly amazing saint honore, Almonds and chocolates cakes there last week), Carl Marletti and Pierre Herme. But it is also dependent on which creations where..
              All dependent i think on the area, there is much to explore all around the city and don't hesitate to enter "unknown" places that seem interesting, to try something and maybe like the place.. If by any chance your base is the 10 arr area, don't hesitate to try Aux Peches Normands, lovely place. Des Idees was a bit "off" for us this time, but it is a very nice place also.