Tour of Paris Must-eats (work in progress)
For an upcoming Paris visit (my first real visit for food and drink), I am working on a list of must-east around town. We plan to walk around town and eat and drink. To maximize sampling, we are focusing on smaller items that eat's easy to pop in somewhere for: cheese, charcuterie, chocolate, baked goods, etc. Also, for evenings, we are thinking of wine bars with good food, again so we can hit more than one in a night. I've been researching this site and others. And, while the list remains incomplete, it is far enough along so begin soliciting input. Thanks in advance for your help. What is missing? What needs to go? Also, if I were to add one affordable sit-down restaurant, what should it be? L'Ami Jean?
Julien – Croissant, Baguette
Address: 75 rue St. Honoré, 75001
Nearest transport: Les Halles (4) or Louvre-Rivoli (1)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 42 36 24 83
Verjus Wine Bar with great food
47 rue de Montpensier, 75001
Hours: Lunch Tuesday-Friday 12:30-2:30pm; Dinner Monday-Friday, 6pm-11pm; closed Saturday and Sunday
Le Rubis – Wine bar with good food
10 rue Marché Saint Honoré
Jean Paul Hevin –Hot Chocolate - Chocolate
Address: 231 rue St. Honoré, 75001
Nearest transport: Tuileries (1)
Hours: Shop Monday-Saturday 10am-7:30pm; Chocolate Bar Monday-Saturday 12pm-7pm; Closed Sunday
Frenchie Wine Bar (Bar a Vins)
6 rue du Nil, 75002
Hours: Monday-Friday, 7p.m.-10:30p.m. – arrive early to get a seat
Gyoza Bar – Japanese dumpling bar
Address: 56 Passage des Panoramas, 75002
Nearest transport: Grands Boulevards (8, 9)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Saturday; closed Sunday
134 RDT – Best croissant?
Address: 134 rue de Turenne, 75003
Nearest transport: République (5, 8, 9, 11)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 42 78 04 72
Genin – #1 Chocolate, Mille Feuille
133, rue de Turenne
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 11am-7pm; Closed Monday
Gerard Mulot - renowned fruit tarts
Address: 76 rue de Seine, 75006
Hours: Monday-Sunday 6:45am-8:00pm; Closed Wednesday
Breizh Café – crepes
Address: 109 rue Vielle du Temple
Hours: Close Monday and Tuesday
Berthillon – ice cream
Address: 31 rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile, 75004
Hours: Closed Monday, Closed Tuesday
Pozetto – best gelato?
Address: 39 rue Roi de Sicile, 75004
Nearest transport: St. Paul (1)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 42 77 08 64
Les Papilles – deli, wine bar, set price restaurant, very informal
Address: 30 rue Gay Lussac, 75005
Nearest transport: Luxembourg (RER B)
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday
Laurent – Cheese
47 boulevard Saint-Germain
Raimo – classic French ice cream
Address: 65 boulevard Saint Germain, 75005
Nearest transport: Cluny – La Sorbonne (10)
Eric Kayser – Best Baguette?
Address: 14 rue Monge, 75005
Nearest transport: Maubert-Mutualité (10)
Hours: Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 44 07 17 81
Boulangerie L’Essentiel Mouffetard - Croissant
2 Rue Mouffetard, 75005
Patrick Roger – Chocolate – get the bars!
Address: 108 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10)
Hours: Every day 10:30am-7:30pm
Verot – Chacruterie shop
3 rue Notre Dame des Champs,
Pierre Herme – maracons; Ispahan macaron
Address: 72 rue Bonaparte, 75006)
Hours: Open every day 10am-7pm
Poilane – bakery famous for sourdough rounds Pain Poilane, and apple tartlets
Address: 49 boulevard de Grenelle, 75015
Hours: Closed Sunday
Grom – Italy gelato in Paris
Address: 81 rue de Seine, 75006
Hours: Open every day
62 rue de Sein
Address: 10 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Barthelemy – cheese; 30-month Ossau-Iraty
Address: 51 rue de Grenelle, 75007
Nearest transport: rue du Bac (12)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 8:30 a.m.-1 p.m. and 4 p.m. – 7:15 p.m.; closed Sunday and Monday
62 rue Sévres, 7th arrondisement (00 33 1 47 34 33 45)
Michel Chaudun - chocolate
Address: 149 rue de l’Université, 75007
Nearest transport: Invalides (8, 13, RER C)
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 9:30-7:30
La Tête dans les Olives - olive oils, gourmet items, six seats for lunch reservations required
2 rue St. Marthe, 75010
Urfa Durum – kebab in flat bread, to go
Address: 56 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 75010
Nearest transport: Château d’Eau (4)
Hours: Open every day
Du Pain et des Idees – pain de amis, Bayonne-Reblochon-figue
Address: 34 rue Yves Toudic, 75010
Hours: Monday-Friday 6:45am-8pm; Closed Saturday, Closed Sunday
Bones- charcuterie restaurant
43 rue Godefroy Caviagnac
Le Dauphin – wine bar of chef Inaki Aizpitarte, small plates haute cuisine
Address: 131 avenue Parmentier
Nearest transport: Goncourt (11)
Hours: Dinner, Tuesday-Saturday; lunch, Tuesday-Friday; Closed Sunday and Monday
Bisto Paul Bert –
18 rue Paul Bert, 75011
Nearest transport: Faidherbe-Chaligny (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
L Entree des Artistes - cocktails
Address: 8 rue de Crussol, 75011
Nearest transport: Oberkampf (5, 9)
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 7pm-2am; closed Sunday
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Address: 3 rue Basfroi, 75011
Nearest transport: Charonne (9) or Ledru Rollin (8)
Hours: 10am-10pm Tuesday through Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday
Ble Sucre madeleines, millefeuille, caramel ice cream,
Address: 7 rue Antoine Vollon, 75012
Hours: Close Monday
Le Severo – steak, tartare, charcuterie
Address: 8 rue des Plantes, 75014
Nearest transport: Mouton Duvernet or Alesia (4)
Hours: Closed Saturday, Sunday
Des Gâteaux & du Pain – Bakery
63 bd Pasteur
Croissant. Pain au chocolat (chowhound). Specialities include the chocolate hazelnut cake, the chorizo loaf, and the religieuse au caramel, a caramel cream-filled puff made with choux pastry and covered with a sugary yellow glaze.
Hours: Wednesday-Monday 8am-8pm; Closed Tuesday
Laurent - Cheese
2 Rue Lourmel,
Verot - Chacruterie
7 rue Lecourbe
Coquelicot - baguettes
Address: 24 rue des Abbesses, 75018
Nearest transport: Abbesses (12)
Hours: Closed Monday
Gontran Cherrier – rye bread, sandwiches
Address: 22 rue Caulaincourt, 75018
Hours: Monday-Saturday 7:30am-8:30pm, Sunday 7:30am-7:30pm; Closed Wednesday
Either you know Paris so well that you don't feel you need to see anything else, or you know it so little that you would propose such an itinerary. If you want to do this, go for it. But I would find it tedious.
I know the above is not helpful, so I will at least suggest making a stop for some Bordier butter (sel craquant) to take back to you hotel room so you can enjoy those baguettes chez vous. A good place to score your butter is from Da Rosa, where there is a market plus a place to eat. Another place is the food court (no, not like in the US) at Galleries Lafayette where you can try many top-flight pastries and other goodies all in one spot. You can eat there. I am partial to the green tea dome at Aoki - perhaps the best single pastry item I've ever had, but it's not to everyone's taste. As long as you're in the 'hood, take in the REAL dome at Galleries Lafayette.
Also, if white peaches are in season, get some. And figs. And liquidy raw milk cheeses. Make sure to ask for liquide. A liquidy St Marcellin is like heaven.
I'm not sure traipsing around for chocolates is the best idea, I mean, how great are they from one place to another? Is Paris really the place for this? Get the pavé at Michel Chaudun because they are addictive and unique. I'm not sure how much other Paris chocolates are going to send you (to each his own). Although Genin is a master of pastry, I think I can find better chocolates in Washington, DC. (closer to you, I believe)
The Mariage Frères tea shop is something to see, and if you are going to the Marais anyway, you might as well take a look, same thing for the rue des rosiers with the felafel vendors. Buy a pain cumin from the nearby bakery and get some caviar d'aubergine from Sacha Finklesztajn's.
Near Montmartre there is Denise Acabo's candy shop with sweets from all over France. It is also something to experience.
For a completely different taste, try the crabe farci and crabe beignets at the créole spot inside Marché des Enfants Rouge. Maybe the oldest market in Paris, eating and shopping here will take you far, far away from life in the US. From here, Genin is a short walk.
Excellent advice all over.
I like the part on chocolates. I'll add fuel to it by pointing out that most chocolates in Paris (including Hermé) are Valrhona-based, so they more or less taste the same. Notable exceptions are Chaudun (N°1 for me), Jean-Paul Hévin, and Pralus who control the product from the bean to the bar.
Of course there are the extraordinary chocolates and beans by Claudio Corallo available at L'Arbre à Café (soon to reopen on rue du Nil), but they're in a different league than any other chocolate and could be defined as a distinct product in their own right.
With a 'run and shoot' objective like this, I am surprise no one actually mentioned 'Fauchon' at Place de la Madeleine??!!!
I do realize to some, this Parisian icon is too touristy or over-rated. However, the incredible list of display and selection always give me a kick each time I paid it a visit!
The Patisserie, Delicatessen, Fine Charcuterie, Cheese, Foie Gras.... sections, all under one roof is always an eye opener. Amazing looking prepared foods! My favorite is to get a few slices of the gorgeous 'Noir De Bigorre' ham from the Charcuterie and munch on them whilst walking across to browse at the Baccarat Crystal shop windows.
Then what do you guys think about Pierre Herme? Pardon my French, but his are ridiculously sweet.
That said, I agree that deal loyal (thank you, autocorrect!) is on the sweet side. To me, they stay on the list for one reason, which is their big chocolate macaron, which I would describe as "chocolate jam". Love their croque Monsieur too.
Absolute best macarons: Georges Larnicol (2 locations).
Light and airy, not overly sweet, 100% almonds, sugar and natural flavorings. Not a gram of butter, the shortening is 100% almond oil (the only 100% vegan macarons in Paris for those who are interested; me, I like them for the taste.)
They are 100% taste, taste, taste. With a slight crunch.
If you will excuse my passionate tone, I think they leave all other macarons lightyears behind.
Many years ago, first time at Herme, i said not again, it was overly sweet. Two weeks ago, Herme big surprise, nothing too sweet, very nice flavors, infimate vanilla and Ispahan small cake really nice, not patiserrie des reves standarts, but for sure not overly sweet, at least how i remembered.
Macarons we tried 8 of them, best came the apricot pistachio, very nice, again no extra sweetness that shadows real flavors. Maybe some of the macarons a bit too sweet, but don't remeber which. Laduree on the other hand - too sweet and flat flavors, wasted calories. In general Laduree stuff was bad.
I've been trying for a list like this one for years. I'm always depressed by the inability to make into a database that would be usable, easy to search, etc.
The best I've come with so far is using Google maps. And I don't sort them by ardt per se, but per neighborhood -- eg Montmartre, Saint-Germain, Montparnasse, Eiffel tower, etc.
Isn't it amazing that, in this day and age, it still takes fifteen minutes of research to find out what's open in your neighborhood?
Following up, I started a few maps. After years of trying to keep and redo complicated maps such as my old map of bakeries, I realized that maps by neighborhood, mixing all kind of interesting addresses were much more useful. In a word, I rediscovered the organizations of..guidebooks.
The idea of the map is, a short introduction by me and, when it exists, all the available data from Google+. So here are a few, it's a work in progress:
1. Saint Germain/Quartier Latin: https://maps.google.fr/maps/ms?msid=213162411896743321672.0004dd735be3fd2509719&msa=0&ll=48.848846,2.344208&spn=0.038633,0.083857
2. The road to (or from) Montmartre: https://maps.google.fr/maps/ms?msid=213162411896743321672.0004dd736c4e97f677051&msa=0&ll=48.87674,2.338715&spn=0.038611,0.083857
4. The glorious seventh: https://maps.google.fr/maps/ms?msid=2...
Coming soon to a Google map near you: Deep 15th, Chinatown etc, central Paris (islands, halles et marais) and maybe, some day, far east (meaning right of Bastille).
I still lack practice, but I believe one can download those maps in the Gmaps app, so that the data is available locally for those who come to Paris with an iPhone or an iPad, but do not want the ridiculous roaming prices.
Feedbacks and suggestions extremely welcome at zejulot at gmail.com
I am really glad I checked back into this thread. We are staying at the end of Boulevard St Germain in Sep so the Saint Germain/Quartier Latin is very helpful. I will try to download it into my iPhone. Also have you considered adding the markets i.e. at Place Monge? Thanks again.
I agree with PBSF. You'll do better to check out one area than to run all over. And it's not a good idea to make a check list of must-do's or must-eat's. You'll never be able to cover all of them, so you're just setting yourself up to be disappointed at what you didn't achieve, rather than pleased at what you did experience. When I visit Paris, I, too, have a list of places where I would like to eat. But it is a list of possibilities, not musts.
Assuming that you not in Paris doing research on food but to enjoying the city, you might consider a difference approach. Paris is loaded with great food, bread, pastries, etc, and one need not to run to all corners to find them. Since you only have 3 days, instead of combing all 18 arrondissment to find what are reputed to be the 'best', just concentrate on the center of Paris and choose one walkable area that has a good concentration of food related shops for each day. Combine that with sightseeing and you'll discover many wonderful surprises. Some suggestions:
1. Around Montorgueil/rue de Bretagne/Turenne/the Marais. Start with oldest pastry shop, Stohrer, nearby on r. Tiquetonne is interesting baking shop, G Detou, Pain de Sucre on Rambuteau; rue de Bretagne is a bustling street full of shops including Marche des Enfants Rouges; then on to Jacques Genin, 134RTD, Breizh Cafe, falafel and Jewish pastries on r. des Rosiers.
2. Rue des Martyrs where there are more patisseries/boulangeries/chocolatiers than one can count; just to start are Delmontel, Landemaine, Rose Bakery, Au Levain des Martyrs, Henri LeRoux, Sebastian Guadard, Rousseau et Seurre (one of the oldest); many food shops and traiteurs including, Le Grand Jeau, Les Papilles, EG Traiteur. It is a wonderful few blocks to explore. If that is not enough, walk south and stroll through the Passages.
3. Maubert/Monge: start with ice cream at Raimo, then Laurent Dubois in front of the Maubert Market. Next to Laurent Dubois is Patisserie Carton. Along Monge is the flagship store of Eric Kayser where the baguettes, croissants and financiers (just about everything else) are better than his outposts; Terra de Bellota on Cardinal Limoine, Gregory Renard on r. Dauberton, Carl Marletti (a definite for designer pastries) on rue Censier. Boulangerie Monge and Gregoire on the Place Monge then late afternoon tea at the Mosque. There are daily markets on Place Maubert and Place Monge.
4. Between the 6e/7e: all the famous boulangeries/patisseries and chocolatiers on rue de Seine plus da Rosa, Grom; on r Jacob just off r de Seine is LeBlanc for oil, then P. Herme on Bonapart; over to Cherche Midi for the original Poilane, Fromagerie Quatrehomme on r. de Sevres, La Grande Epicerie at Bon Marche, on to Barthelemy on r. de Grenelle for more cheese. To finish, stroll down to Gosselin on Blvd St. Germain.
For me, getting a very fresh croissant and baguette from a good boulangerie is more important than eating one that has sat a couple hours from a reputed “best”. Kayser on r Monge is 5 minutes from my apartment and if I drop by at 7:30am, it is guaranteed to be terrific because it is just out of the oven and cooled a few minutes. By 9am, it is bit dry and the butter has congealed. For a 3 day visit, I couldn’t metro to the 12e just to check out the madeleine at Ble Sucre or the 15e for croissant at Des Gateaux et du Pain or the 10e at Du Pain et des Idees, especially if the goods have been sitting for couple of hours. They are located in perfectly fine neighborhoods but not much of interest nearby.
These are all excellent suggestions. I was leaning towards omitting some neighborhoods for reasons similar to those raised here. And, this confirms that I will do so. Also, the itineraries you've proposed PBSF look great. Finally, I'll make a point of being at a good boulangerie like Kayser early for a croissant.
Impossible to make such a list for this city, we are back from another visit, and each time you may have new surprises, or old timers that may dissappoint on a certain day .
I think mapping your areas of interest is most important - both geographical and food wise.
I think you should concentrate on a partial list cause no way to cover those crazy lists of summeries.
My personal "must visit" list currently for fancy patisserie will include Genin, Des Reves (we had truly amazing saint honore, Almonds and chocolates cakes there last week), Carl Marletti and Pierre Herme. But it is also dependent on which creations where..
All dependent i think on the area, there is much to explore all around the city and don't hesitate to enter "unknown" places that seem interesting, to try something and maybe like the place.. If by any chance your base is the 10 arr area, don't hesitate to try Aux Peches Normands, lovely place. Des Idees was a bit "off" for us this time, but it is a very nice place also.
In the 5me, you're missing Oteiza on Blvd St. Michel for amazing Basque charcuterie. And i'm virtually certain the "Laurent" you mentioned for cheese is Laurent Dubois in the Place Maubert. The 3-year-old Cmote is divine! Curious are you planning a meal at Les Papilles? It's a restaurant, you know.
In the 6th, I think the Poilane shop you really want is on the rue Cherche Midi. Make sure you get the right Poilane! (there are 2 brothers) and on your way to THAT Poilane, you really ought to stop into Maison du Chocolat and sample some truffles!
You can move Gérard Mulot from the 3rd to the 6th.
"Atlas Hamadi" means nothing. One is L'Atlas and the other one is Chez Hamadi and they're different restaurants. One in the 6th, the other one in the 5th.
By "Laurent — cheese" you probably mean Laurent Dubois.
This all looks like a selection of choices to me, not really an inventory of "what's best". So there's a little arbitrary feeling to it.
Not sure what you mean by "selection of choices" vs. "inventory of what's best". Perhaps the problem is that it's a work in progress and not a very good one! It's a synthesis of the research I've done thus far with the aim of doing the best job as possible as finding the best tastes during our trip to Paris.
At the end of our visit, I hope to create report back with a list of everything we tasted. I want that list to include as many of Paris' best tastes as possible, without having to go to many (or any) sit-down restaurants. If you have any additional guidance, it is very much encouraged. Thanks.
re: John Galt
It is not bad at all as works in progress go...
But it is a perfect illustration of the recently-addressed fact that chowhounders seem to gravitate around a limited number of places and there's far more to explore than meets the reader's eye.
A "complete" list following those criteria would cover several pages, actually they make guidebooks with that sort of information.
re: John Galt
Due respect, that's the wrong approach. There will almost always be better food somewhere, and trying to organize your time around a purchase of the best places will prevent you from enjoying much, not to mention your stomach might not be up to the task. At least, that's what I observe with many visitors and clients.
My advice: pick some places that tickled your fancy (the ones you remember when you don't look at your notes), have the kind of list you have per neighborhood, and just play it by ear.
I've been living here all my life looking for the best food, and I still don't most of the places people talk about.
You do realise lots of these are shops? Bakeries in Paris rarely have space to eat in, there are exceptions but they are few and far between. So to enjoy you list you need a place to take your purchase to to enjoy.
Interesting you have Verjus with "great" food but Rubis with simply "good" - Verjus is OK if you want US food in a Paris but Rubis is the real deal.
Rue Petite Champs roughly from Juvenilles/Verjus through the Frenchie is a great street for wine bars including Willi's plus lots of newer options - don't miss investigating the passages.