2 new restaurants on the horizon
From the NYT:
When the Chicago chef Michael White unpacked his knives in New York, it was at Fiamma in SoHo. Now he has circled back to that location with this steak-centric Italian restaurant (the name means rib-eye in Italian). “When I was first here, I was 29, and it’s where I met Ahmass,” Mr. White said, referring to his partner in the Altamarea Group, Ahmass Fakahany. “Life is different now.” P. J. Calapa, the executive chef at Altamarea’s Ai Fiori, will transfer his duties here, as will some of that restaurant’s wine and beverage team. The menu focuses on beef that has been dry-aged at least 28 days. For starters there is seafood, including 11 crudos. A lobster cocktail is playfully seasoned “all’amatriciana” with guanciale; cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) is dusted on a romaine salad instead of on pasta; and quail is prepared saltimbocca style. Pastas are made in house. Among the entrees are steaks basted with brushes made from rosemary branches. Dining rooms on the first two floors feature polished wood, marble, stone and artwork; there are private rooms on the third. All the tables are formally set because, as Mr. White put it, “I don’t want to let fine dining die.” (Opens Friday): 206 Spring Street (Sullivan Street), (212) 334-3320.
Jo-Ann Makovitzky and her husband, the chef Marco Moreira,who own Tocqueville and 15 East, are opening this brasserie on two levels in the new Hyatt Union Square. The eye-catching centerpiece is a hanging sculpture of wooden bed frames called “Hypnagogia,” by Brinton Jaecks. There is a bar, cafe and an intimate elevated dining area, all with American food tweaked with ingredients like stinging nettles, sorrel yogurt and smoked salmon roe. One downstairs area has communal tables; another will become Botequim, a South American restaurant. (Wednesday): 132 Fourth Avenue (East 13th Street), (212) 432-1324, thefourthny.com.
Food was really solid at Betony. I had Tuna Melt, which was tuna, fonatana, and veggies on brioche. Not overly salty and very flavorful.
Cured pink snapper with basil and pickled red onions was full of 'umami'.
Shellfish ragout composed of tender shrimp, mussels and squid with refreshing nettles sauce, was covered with crispy, fried thin potato net. I was impressed.
My only complaint was the restaurant was too dark and I couldn't even see what I was eating.
Although I miss Brasserie Pushkin's sophisticated French pastries so much (but none of its savoury dishes), at least Betony's good food more than offset my regret over the loss of the lovely pastries.