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Best food towns to visit in Burgundy Region

Mirabelle May 14, 2013 03:19 PM

I've been in the cheese business for 20 years and want to see where Epoisses is made so the town of Epoisses will be my first stop. I've been doing some research in that area and as far as I can tell it's not a town known for its restaurants. I don't want to spend my 4 days in this area with out some spectacular meals. So can someone tell me what towns (besides Epoisses) I should be going to and where to eat in these towns.
I'm renting a car from CDG airport and driving down to this area first before going back to Paris for 4 days. The Paris restaurants are not a problem. Food is so important to me that I can be persuaded to change my plans in order to have a great gastronomic experience.
I'll be going in October so I was hoping to stop by some vineyards too.

  1. ChefJune May 15, 2013 01:42 PM

    There's a great cheese shop in Saulieu that Delucacheesemonger waxes poetic about. Ask him. and of course, Loiseau is in Saulieu... In Echevronne is Domaine Lucien Jacob, the maker of fine creme de liqueurs (Cassis, Mure and Framboise)

    Beaune is home to the world's finest Dijon mustard, Edmond Fallot. You can tour the factory. Great food in Beaune: #1 probably Ma Cuisine...

    2 Replies
    1. re: ChefJune
      DaisyM May 15, 2013 03:03 PM

      We just got back from France and spent 5 nights in Beaune. Le Benaton was superb and shouldn't be missed. The lobster with peas was probably the best dish of the trip. We also loved Le Comptoir de Tonton. I highly recommend these two restaurants.

      I know everyone raves about Ma Cuisine, but it wasn't our favorite meal.

      1. re: DaisyM
        ChefJune May 16, 2013 09:00 AM

        That's true, Daisy... everyone does rave about Ma Cuisine. Sorry you didn't care for it. Most everyone also raves about Tonton, too. and not only did we not care for the food, we were pretty much treated by the owners as invisible. And we were not 2 Americans... one American but one Spaniard. Definitely the worst treatment I've ever received in more than 20 years traveling in France.

    2. Delucacheesemonger May 17, 2013 08:07 AM

      Best Epoisses, Jean Gaugry only one left au lait cru, is made very near Gevrey-Chambertin. He has a stand at the Dijon covered market. Alain Hess cheese shop in Beaune is a jewel as well, wait until you see his laser aimed hard cheese cutter.
      l also ate at Ma Cuisine a few weeks ago and although they were out of the highly rated boeuf bourguignon they served the pigeon of my dreams. Also a very aged selection of Taragonia Chartreuse, just a wonderful night.
      The shop is La Fourchale in Saulieu and while most of their cheese is good and very well priced, their fromage fort is made on premises and is my single favorite cheese on the planet. Still nursing some from my trip in March there.

      3 Replies
      1. re: Delucacheesemonger
        Mirabelle May 17, 2013 01:39 PM

        Thanks for all the input! I'd still love to hear from others about accommodations, markets, & maybe even a vineyard or 2.

        1. re: Mirabelle
          ChefJune May 18, 2013 12:29 AM

          You will need appointments for the better wineries. Most don't do walkins. Your local wine merchant can intervene through importers if you don't know any. or you can email me. I know some.

        2. re: Delucacheesemonger
          souphie May 25, 2013 09:22 AM

          La Fouchale. No R. Just saying.

        3. s
          sderham May 21, 2013 01:23 PM

          David Downie wrote a wonderful and very thorough book on Burgundy: Food Wine Burgundy.


          1. PhilD May 21, 2013 04:41 PM

            Chagny - Maison Lameloise

            1. l
              lemarais May 22, 2013 05:25 PM

              Of course there's Beaune and all the North and Central sights...

              However, don't miss some hidden gems at the Southern tip of Burgundy, Tournus and Cluny. Abbeys, Romanesque Ruins, great Castles, and a couple of nice museums. Both towns have great historic downtowns with loads of great restaurants. (Centre Ville)

              If you don't have your accommodations planned, let me recommend something a little different, a terrific Chambre d'Hote run most efficiently by a couple recently retired from Lyon. They have 2 pet donkeys, and a lovely Table d'Hote with communal dining with the hosts and other guests,(Great gourmet meal with local ingredients!) and a breakfast with about 10 confitures all from fruits and herbs grown in their garden. They are also beekeepers with fabulous honey. Lovely folks, great place to stay!


              They sometimes make a dish with the revered Bresse chicken, but if not, you can find it in Tournus or Cluny restaurants. Don't miss it, it's as special as its reputation!

              6 Replies
              1. re: lemarais
                mangeur May 22, 2013 05:58 PM

                Thanks for the Darbonnets link. Looks just like our thing.

                1. re: lemarais
                  ChefJune May 23, 2013 07:50 AM

                  the Darbonnet link looks very interesting, but I'm having trouble finding that town in Burgundy. Where is it near?

                  1. re: ChefJune
                    mangeur May 23, 2013 08:12 AM

                    Looks like around 3km due east of Pont-de-Vaux, i.e., 15 km southeast of Tournus. Did you click on the access tab?

                    1. re: mangeur
                      ChefJune May 23, 2013 08:57 AM

                      I did, but just did it again! I see. It is not really in Burgundy, per se. That is, if one is tasting in the Cote d'Or. Kind of far away. We really loved Le Home, a little chambre d'hote just south of Beaune center. It was the perfect location for both North and south of Beaune, really easy access to everything, and great prices.

                      1. re: ChefJune
                        mangeur May 23, 2013 09:13 AM

                        June, if you are looking for something closer to Cote d'Or, I can't too strongly recommend Maison Chaudenay just north of Chagny. Adorable apartment. Lovely hosts from New Zealand. Husband drove to neighboring town each morning to bring back your breakfast bread order because he didn't like th local croissants and baguettes! (You filled out your order at night and he placed it at your doorstep each morning.) We stayed in "The Cottage".


                    2. re: ChefJune
                      lemarais May 23, 2013 05:54 PM

                      Well, it's on Google maps, it's about 15 minutes from Tournus. 25 min from Cluny. Southern end of Burgundy.

                      South Burgundy is a nice surprise. Sure, everyone knows Beaune and Dijon, but the Southern part is lovely.


                      Tournus and Cluny (and Chavanne S.R.) are definitely in the Region of Bourgogne! It extends even a bit further into Macon!

                  2. bucksguy14 May 23, 2013 06:45 AM

                    Recently returned from a 10-day trip to Burgundy and some of the best meals were:

                    Restaurant Christophe Queant in Chateau du Pommard
                    Le Benaton in Beaune
                    Restaurant L'Ecusson in Beaune
                    Le Montrachet in Puligny-Montrachet
                    Hostellerie de Levernois, just outside Beaune
                    Rouge Chapeau in Dijon

                    1 Reply
                    1. re: bucksguy14
                      ChefJune May 23, 2013 07:52 AM

                      We wondered about the restaurant at Chateau de Pommard. We had a wonderful tasting with the director of the Chateau, but had not booked a meal.

                    2. l
                      lemarais May 24, 2013 06:36 AM

                      FYI, The Saone Valley area between Tournus and Macon IS part of Burgundy. For oeonophiles, it also produces lots of Burgundy wines, including the more well known Macon Villages,and Pouilly-Fuisse!

                      I know Americans flock to Beaune, but this Southern area is a great place to visit.

                      1. d
                        DaisyM May 24, 2013 03:44 PM

                        We also had wonderful meals at Le Montrachet in Puligny-Montrachet and Hostellerie de Levernois. Hostellerie de Levernois has a cheese course that is incredible. The largest selection that we had in Burgundy.

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