Trip report with chowpups (long!)
Thanks to everyone for their advice on where to eat in NOLA. We had a great time, despite the rain and ankle-deep mud at Jazz Fest!
We arrived on Wednesday and immediately headed down to the Quarter. After a quick walk around, we decided to have a snack at Johnny's Po-Boys. It wasn't my first choice for a place, but we were hungry and it was right there. DH and older pup split a muffaletta. Picky pup and I split a BBQ Beef Po-Boy. Bread was unnervingly soft yet difficult to bite, bbq beef was nothing special. Muffaletta got good reviews. I thought it was "meh".
Dinner was at Domenica. I loved the space. DH thought it pretentious. Pizzas were very well done. The roasted carrot pizza with beets, brussels sprouts, hazelnuts and goat cheese was amazing. DH had a calabrese pizza, which had sliced tomatoes, olives and capers. They made a mistake on picky pup's potato brisket pizza and subbed mozzarella for the brisket, instead of the mascarpone as she had requested. So another pizza was promptly brought out, correctly made, and older pup snarfed the mistake. Good thing, because she and I were supposed to split the roasted carrot one, but she didn't like the beets on it. Kids. Lots of leftovers fueled us for breakfast for two days. I would highly recommend this place.
Thursday found us at Audubon Zoo. We were all so full after gorging on cold pizza for breakfast that we decided to have a late lunch at Dat Dog on Magazine. Wow. Just wow. Older pup tried the bacon werewolf dog, which was a slovenian sausage with bacon, sauerkraut, relish, and a blackberry jam, which sounds gross but was incredibly good. Picky pup had a duck dog and loved it. DH and I had Chicago dogs done perfectly. A decent selection of brews on tap and a comfortable place to wait out the rain. Four thumbs up.
On the way back to the hotel, we made a quick stop at Sucre for macarons. We tried 8 different flavors. They were all delicious, although our overall favorite was the salted caramel. Not as good as the macarons in Paris, of course, but still very good.
Dinner was at Ye Olde College Inn with zydeco at Rock 'n' Bowl afterwards. We were all surprised by the quality of chow here. With that kind of a name, we expected fried food and burgers. Instead, we were treated to delicious boudin, a fried green tomato and shrimp remoulade po-boy (yum!), a nice salad with chicken, and a fish dish with a creamy crawfish sauce (DH ate it too fast for me to really check it out). Service was excellent and knowledgeable. Again, four thumbs way up.
Friday morning saw the skies open up yet again, so our kayak trip along the Bayou St. John was washed out. We found refuge at the Fair Grinds coffeehouse for breakfast. Good coffee, nice atmosphere, and a killer sweet potato maple bacon biscuit. Texture was a little soft for my liking, but the flavors were incredible.
The rest of the day was spent slipping and sliding and freezing at Jazz Fest. The music kept us going, along with some great food. The pheasant, quail and andouille gumbo and fried okra were hits. Who knew? Jambalaya and Natchitoches meat pies went over well, too. It was too cold to venture out in the wind by the time we wanted to get some crawfish. It'll have to wait for another trip.
By the time we cleaned our feet and shoes (and the hotel bathroom) all we wanted to do was eat and sleep. Dinner was room service from Babin's Bar and Bistro. Decent chow - burgers, salads, and the like. Not too expensive and delivered quickly. Can't ask for more from room service.
Our last day in New Orleans found us at the Trolley Stop cafe on St. Charles for breakfast. Huge portions, decent quality food, bad coffee, just as you would expect. We then thought of heading down toward the Aquarium and IMAX theatre. But it was just too glorious a day to consider being inside all day so we rode the Algiers ferry and then wandered around the French Market. "Lunch" was at Cafe du Monde. I am inspired to make beignets at home now. Can't wait until the next trip to NOLA.
Our last dinner in the city was at the glorious Sylvain. Thanks, janelever, for the encouragement to try it. Older pup went for the incredible beef cheeks(!) over mashed potato, picky pup had the pasta bolognese, DH had the scallops and I had the duck confit over the same farro verde that showed up on the scallop dish. Cocktails were expertly mixed, especially the sazerac. Wine selections were well done and not too expensive. Dessert choices were few in number - we tried the chocolate pot de creme and the Abita root beer float (which were outstanding) and picky pup stuck with the strawberry sorbet from La Divina Gelateria across the street (which was predictable). Service was excellent. There were several tables with very small children and all went well. Four thumbs way way up.
Again, thanks to everyone for your great advice. We had an awesome trip and are already looking forward to our next adventure in one of America's most unique cities.
Thanks for taking the time to write a trip report. Sylvain & YOCI dont get talked about much, so it was nice to read about them. Glad you enjoyed.
Thanks for the report.
What a great trip, and wonderful experience for your pups! I have been meaning to get it in my plan, but will definitely go to Sylvain for dinner during my next visit, based on your detailed report.
[BTW, I was horribly disappointed in my home-made beignets, but good luck!]