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Lyon-specific recommendations

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Hi all,

My daughter and I are traveling to Paris and Lyon in a few days. There is obviously a huge amount of information on Paris on these threads, and we've actually found quite a bit of discussion on Beaune and the surrounding area, so we feel like were all set for dining plans there. However, Lyon itself still seems a bit daunting! We keep hearing/seeing that it is an amazing food city, but aside from Bocuse etc, can't find too many recent recs. Can you all help us?

As background, we'll be there 5 days, but at least 2 will be spent out of town in the surrounding area. We eat literally everything and would love both less expensive and nicer recs. Were staying in old town, near the river, but will of course travel for food!!

Thank you so much in advance!!

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  1. Was at Troisgros last night about an hour from Lyon by car or train and stunning.lf l were doing a extravaganza in the area that is where l would go.BTW the restaurant in Roanne is directly across the street from the train station and out hotel Ibis Style was 30 yards further, hotel was very inexpensive and far better than the one we had just been in Beaune at 1/3 the cost.

    6 Replies
    1. re: Delucacheesemonger

      Thank you so much for the suggestion!!! If you have any more we would love to hear about them.

      1. re: Delucacheesemonger

        Echoing this - got back from Lyon last week and the best meal by far in that area was Troisgros. We also drove and stayed overnight, but it's quite feasible to take the train for lunch and return same day.
        And another point - it's also open on Monday (closed Tue/Wed) which can be a tough day to find places open.

        Sadly Lyon itself didn't live up to expectations (I should say hopes) - just so much cream and butter that our bodies rebelled. VERY tasty but we weren't strong-willed enough to take it easy.

        1. re: estufarian

          Thank you estufarian. Appreciate any feedback and thoughts, sorry that your bodies rebelled. Hope ours don't, but probably will.. we will stay strong!!

          1. re: hollyhowitt

            We did like Le Splendid - which is a Georges Blanc owned Brasserie featuring 'dishes our mothers' cooked' - but choose some lighter fare along with the 'traditional'.
            We did try a place that attempted 'lighter' versions of the traditional dishes (L'Alexandrin) - but this didn't work at all for us. Found the food confusing and lacking defined flavors (and also too expensive for what was delivered).

          2. re: estufarian

            I'm sorry you had that experience, estufarian. Not all places cook like that.

          3. re: Delucacheesemonger

            DCM, you need to talk to me about hotels in Beaune... ;)

          4. Lot of good press on Daniel and Denise in Lyon, l have not been.

            1. I wonder what you consider current info. There are lots of Lyon threads in this forum. Much of the food in Lyon is very traditional and places don't really change all that much. Are you interested in bouchons? Fine dining, bistros and/or brasseries?

              Daniel et Denise was my favorite meal last November. I agree with DCM about Troigros for your "splurge" meal. It's divine, and worth every penny. Better by far than Bocuse, imho.

              Lyon is an extremely easy city to navigate, either on foot or by public trans.

              My experience with Old Town restaurants is that they look cute but are very touristy and meh at best in quality. You are better off crossing the Saone into the Centre Ville. Always love Brasserie Leon de Lyon, and La Voute, Chez Lea. La Mere Brazier has improved by leaps and bounds over the past few years, but it's gotten quite pricy, and I would prefer a train ride to Troisgros... You can do a day trip if you go for lunch!

              Be sure to spend a day (or most of it) "perusing" Les Halles Paul Bocuse, the covered market near the Part-Dieu train station. You will easily find enough choices to make a fine lunch (as wel as souvenirs to bring home).

              1. We had a great dinner last night at Daniel & Denise. They've now opened a second location in Vieux Lyon but it is closed Mondays so we went to the original in Part-Dieu. My husband said the lamb dish from the Seasonal Menu may have been the best lamb he had ever had - lamb shoulder that wss formed into a roulade with mushrooms.

                1 Reply
                1. re: masha

                  Agreed. We ate at the same location last night and it was superb. Calf's head in bullion, steak au poivre, bresse chicken in cream sauce with morels. All first rate