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Best food shops in Bologna

c
Compleat Eater May 4, 2013 06:48 AM

Staying in Bologna for a week and have an apartment with nice patio, kitchen. We love to cook so I am looking for some recommendations for special food shops and specific arcades. The quadrilatero is clearly a good source but anywhere elsewhere off the beaten path? Not Eataly pls. but hidden gems for any / all the following:
cheeses
wine
pork
mushrooms
wine
seafood
pasta
ragu
wine

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  1. d
    DavidT May 4, 2013 08:42 AM

    Some say the Tamburini food shop has crossed over into becoming a tourist attraction, but it is certainly worth stopping in there for a look around. They have a large selection of cheeses.

    1. Villasampaguita May 7, 2013 12:40 PM

      You must go to the daily market in the centre

      8 Replies
      1. re: Villasampaguita
        erica May 12, 2013 05:29 AM

        If you mean this daily market, I found the shopping more exciting around the Via Claveture, although I would trade either area for most food shops in NYC!

        http://www.mercatodelleerbe.it/index.php?page=mercato

        Also liked a deli on Via Oberdan,16; remember that my trip was quite a few years ago, so things may have changed.

        http://www.la-salumeria.it

        1. re: erica
          LaBuonaForchetta May 22, 2013 11:55 AM

          Hi Erica,

          Thanks for sharing these two places! I'm looking for the hours for La Salumeria online and can't find seem to find them. Do you (or does anyone here) happen to know if they are open on Sundays and Mondays?

          Thanks!

          1. re: LaBuonaForchetta
            b
            barberinibee May 22, 2013 03:26 PM

            La salumeria on via Oberdan is more popularly known as Bruno & Franco, and it is not open Sundays. It is otherwise open daily Mon-Sat between 9-1pm and 3.30-7.30pm, with the exception of Thursday afternoon, when you can expect most food stores in Bologna to be closed.

            1. re: LaBuonaForchetta
              c
              Compleat Eater May 23, 2013 04:53 AM

              I contacted Bruno e Franco and they said they are open Monday to Saturday 730-1330 and 1630-1930 each day. Closed on Sunday

              1. re: Compleat Eater
                LaBuonaForchetta May 23, 2013 09:30 AM

                Thank you for the info! I would have been so disappointed to go on Sunday and find them closed.

                1. re: LaBuonaForchetta
                  jen kalb May 23, 2013 09:51 AM

                  I would not count on doing much food buying on sundays in Italy - tho supermarkets are open when smaller shops are not - the last time we were in Parma was on a Sunday - most of the stores had their grates down but a big supermarket across the river from the centro was doing a bustling business., Daily bakeries and pastry shops, and I guess shops that sell mostly to tourists, are other categories that may be open when butchers, fruit markets etc are not.

                  1. re: LaBuonaForchetta
                    c
                    Compleat Eater May 23, 2013 10:15 AM

                    Eataly is open 10-midnight believe it or not. It's pricey and very touristy but may suit your Sunday need for good olive oil and ham. Another is Paolo Atti & Figli http://paoloatti.com/ that is open 1030-1330 with breads pastries and pastas. Supermarkets like Coop Adriatica on Via Montebello should be open

                    1. re: LaBuonaForchetta
                      b
                      barberinibee May 23, 2013 07:24 PM

                      Thanks for posting the more precise info on Bruno e Franco.

                      There is a supermarket up the street from Bruno e Franco that is open on Sunday mornings. It is in the piazza San Martino. It is part of a chain, Co-op, and they have other locations around the city, but I am not sure if they are also open Sunday mornings. If you use the search feature on this map and key in Bologna, you can see where the others are located

                      http://www.e-coop.it/StoreLocator/

                      Outside of the quadrilatero, a great many of Bologna's small fruit and vegetable vendors are from East Asia, and many of them stay open on Sundays, and during the lunch hour, or until late at night.

            2. minchilli May 8, 2013 12:58 AM

              I love Atti, a very old fashioned store selling cakes, cookies and tortellini.

              www.elizabethminchilliinrome.com

              1 Reply
              1. re: minchilli
                b
                barberinibee May 22, 2013 03:31 PM

                I love Atti too, especially when they have fresh passatelli. They also make one of the best candied chestnuts I have ever tasted.

              2. b
                barberinibee May 22, 2013 03:28 PM

                Compleat Eater,

                Are you still looking for recommendations? Where is your apartment?

                5 Replies
                1. re: barberinibee
                  c
                  Compleat Eater May 22, 2013 07:27 PM

                  Barberinibee,
                  Yes would love to hear about a few "out of the way, special shoppes that aren't on the typical lists or on the market streets. We will certainly check out all the standards (Bruno e Franco etc.) Really good butcher would be helpful.
                  Apt. is near the University.

                  1. re: Compleat Eater
                    b
                    barberinibee May 23, 2013 07:51 PM

                    Can't be of help regarding a butcher because I have never bought fresh meat in Bologna.

                    In the university quarter, on the via Petroni nearer to the via San Vitale, you can find an excellent wine store and "dry goods" shop, Antica Drogheria Calzolari. Not an everyday shop, but a very discriminating one. You can find products here from Amerigo in Savigno, for instance. On the same street, almost next door, you might also be interested to browse in Alce Nero, a producer of organic products, which has some of my favorite olive oil cookies and other such goods. It also sells organic fresh foods and dairy products. It serves tasty inexpensive lunches, hot and cold, at communal tables.

                    At the end of the via Oberdan, where it meets the via A. Righi & the via delle Moline, there is a miniscule shop that sells ottoman-sized wheels of parmigiano-reggiano. I have never stepped inside the shop, so I don't know how they operate, but it is a sight in itself.

                    In the piazza Aldrovandi, there is an excellent bakery. And this may be a fluke, but on the corner of via dei Mille and the via Galleria there is a small bakery that also sells fresh tagliatelle that I thought was wonderful.

                    I am extremely fond of the dried mushroom tortellini sold at I Famosi Tortellini della Nonna, which is on the via dell'Indipendenza, near the train station.

                    I am also extremely fond of the "pinza" strudel-like cake sold at the cheese counter of Tamburini, by weight. It is filled with a dark Bolognese mostarda. It's about the only thing I like at Tamburini. For other mostardas, a visit to nearby Melega is great.

                    If I can remember anything else, I'll post.

                    1. re: barberinibee
                      r
                      RCF May 23, 2013 07:57 PM

                      Try this website. It lists food shops by area, although, as a word of warning, a lot of times the site seems to go down.

                      http://www.bolognawelcome.com/en/shopping/suggestions-by-area/params/Percorso_17/ref/Historical%20shops%20-%20The%20old%20market

                      Or just go to the home page at www.bolognawelcome.com/en and click on the links.

                      1. re: barberinibee
                        c
                        Compleat Eater May 24, 2013 04:48 AM

                        This is just what I was after Barberinibee ! Perfetto ! Grazie Mille

                        1. re: Compleat Eater
                          b
                          barberinibee May 24, 2013 07:56 AM

                          Sure. If you make any discoveries of your own, I hope you will report back.

                          One other thing that occurred to me to add is that the bookstore chain of Feltrinelli has an international store on the via Zamboni with an interesting selection of regional cookbooks and guides, many in English, occasionally including English versions of Artusi should you need one. This store is NOT the one opposite the due Torri, but 100 meters up the street from there, on the via Zamboni. The rightly-despised Eataly store in Bologna shares its space with a very large Librerie Co-op bookstore, which also has a hefty selection of cookbooks and guides, many in English, and for regions beyond Emilia-Romagna.

                          PS: two more thoughts: One is that Bruno e Franco makes a tasty cooked dish of a trio of mushrooms, although I doubt they have it year round. Also, on the via dei Mille, between the via dell'Indipendenza and via Galleria, there is a very old fashioned fancy gift shop that sells regional products whose window is always festooned with dried sliced porcini arranged in flat baskets as to make elegant pinwheels, tied up with silk ribbons. I have never stopped in to buy anything (I keep meaning to), so I have no idea if the quality matches the over-the-top presentation. With a great many shops in Bologna (like the bakery I mentioned a few steps away where I bought tagliatelle), I've impulsively bought a product that wouldn't be my first guess as to what to buy there, and lucked out. I have great memories of the candied chestnuts from Atti, the white chocolate & pistacchio bites from Majani, or the Sicilian pizza slice from the no-name hole-in-the-wall on the no-name street where the pharmacy sits at the San Vitale gate -- but one hesitates to recommend that others trek to such places as destinations. Your luck may vary. I've also regretted some impulse purchases, but tend to immediately forget it.

                          However, the quiet, untouristy piazza Aldrovandi is a good place to nose around the brick-and-mortar food shops as well as the nomad morning market stalls (which days they are there, I'm not sure).

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