Marseille Trip Report (spelt correctly)
I hope the moderator can remove the mis-spelt one!
Hi Chowhounders, having browsed the boards before our recent trip to Marseille, thought I'd report back. Stayed for a week, had a great time, lovely city, and exciting this year with it being the City of Culture.
Staying a week in what is effectively out of season (end April) had one consequence - many of the recommended restaurants don't open Sunday-Tuesday, and in at least one case, Wednesday, evenings. Having a big meal for lunch gets in the way of hiking, biking, sightseeing so several of the places we wanted to go were not an option.
However, with that small negative, here are the positives:
La Caravelle - great breakfast, especially of you can snag one of the tables overlooking the harbour.
La Passarelle - seasonal food, menu devised based on what's good in the market (or their garden), and written out in an exercise book, and all delicious. My salad of stuffed courgette flowers and shaved root vegetables was wonderful. Very reasonably priced too. If we had a restaurant like this 5 minutes walk from home, I'd be there all the time.
Ambassade de Bretagne - yes, it may seem strange going to a Breton restaurant in the south of France, but this is a very good one, and open on Sunday evenings. Also, creperies have not yet got to London so it's good to get our fix. The pudding/dessert of a small piece of kouign amman (possibly my favourite thing ever!) and ice cream with coffee was just perfect.
Nul Part Allieurs - overlooking the front, nice pizzas, desserts and charming service
Sylvain Depuichaffray - one of those patisseries you want to wrap up and take home. Lovely croissants, sandwiches for picnics, and on our last day, we shared an exquisite millefeuille.
So these were the highlights. If you are going to Marseille, enjoy!
Thank you Londonlinda. We were in Marseille for one day only and went to La Passerelle based on your rec and thoroughly enjoyed the food and the funky vibe. The heirloom tomatoes, gazpacho and selection of brebis cheeses were perfectly and simply prepared. The fresh herbs, flowers and greens were superb.
Thank you for the informative report on a city with underrated good eats.
"Staying a week in what is effectively out of season (end April) had one consequence - many of the recommended restaurants don't open Sunday-Tuesday, and in at least one case, Wednesday, evenings. "
It may not be because you went off-season. All the good restaurants in Paris and other big cities are closed for 2 days out of the week. Some even 3 days.
Example: Ma Cuisine of Beanue. It is closed Saturday, Sunday and Wednesday. This is not just for April. It applies to all the months. Well, except August, when it is closed the entire month. And December, when it is closed half the month.
This may be surprising to visitors, but that's the way it is. I personally respect this sense of priority.