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A Vegetarian in Paris

c
clembeauchamp Apr 28, 2013 06:26 PM

We just got back from a lovely 3-day visit to Paris. I couldn't find much information on foodie vegetarian dining before we left so, in the interest of helping future vegetarian travelers, I thought I'd share a brief list of restaurants that were particularly good to me. I did not make many reservations on my trip 5 years ago and, as a result, wound up with many croque monsieurs without ham. We wanted to do better this time and tried to find restaurants that were up snuff for both meat eaters and non-meat eaters. For what it's worth, we are 40-something New Yorkers and like to believe that our standards are high.

All restaurants were notified in advance of my dietary restrictions.

Friday lunch - Chez Dumonet
When I called, I was informed there would not be much, "maybe an artichoke or something." True enough, there was not much to choose from, but said artichoke was a delicate and delicious salad, and there was enough on the menu to make a fine feast.

Friday dinner - Le Martel
Went here on the recommendation of a friend who is a frequent visitor to Paris and enjoyed the best vegetable tajine I've ever had, certainly better than anything we ate in Morocco - loads of asparagus and capers in addition to the usual vegetables. My husband had bbq pork and couscous, called something like Mamounia, one of best dishes he ate in Paris this time around.

Saturday lunch - Les Papilles
Prix fixe so I was left in the hands of the chef. Soup and omelet with vegetables were delicious. Prix fixe also includes a cheese course and dessert. You can email for reservations and to notify of dietary restrictions: lespapilles@hotmail.fr.

Saturday dinner - Au Passage
The menu changes regularly but it consists of many small plates and there is sure to be something for the vegetarian.

Sunday lunch - bread, cheese, La Fougasse, etc. No restaurant visit.

Sunday dinner - Mon Vieil Ami
We had been here years ago and the food did not leave a big impression, but they've come a long way. Several options here and the staff is very accommodating. Note: This place is loaded with fellow tourists. That said, my meal was outstanding and I'll certainly go back on our next trip.

On our last trip we ate at Arpege and Maceo. Both will happily accommodate you. If we had had more time, I would have returned to Maceo. Arpege was a bit over the top and pricey for me (but many will disagree).