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GOUST -- Run, Don't Walk!!

  • j

This was like akin to our discovery of l’Astrance shortly after it opened. I predict that Goust will have a Michelin star next year and could easily have the two I think it deserves. With a couple of minor tweaks it could rate a third.

The room is quiet with tables well-spaced and set with quality fabrics, flatware and glasses. The room is elegant without being ostentatious. You could certainly get by without a jacket but you will be more comfortable if you have one.

Of the numerous two and three star meals I have had over the past thirty years I would place the food soundly in the center. A few were a bit better, many about the same and some a bit less good with a couple a lot less good (Ducasse).

They probably have more wine knowledge on the floor at any time than any restaurant in France, especially practical knowledge. If you really know wine the list is superb. If you know little or nothing and take their pairing suggestions you will be delighted and pleased when l‘addition arrives. Frankly, if you know a lot about wine you will be pleased with their pairings.

The only thing that might be improved was the service. If it is possible in France, it was a bit too attentive and a bit more intrusive than I would prefer. However, even that could be because we were inquisitive and interactive ourselves.

A two and one-half hour lunch:

Amuse bouche: one perfect oyster atop a vodka gelee with a hint of pineapple, topped with a yougurt crème and one perfect chizeau leaf. Delectable.

Next: Tuna tartare with capers and minced radishes. Topped with a faux egg with a yolk of mango coulis.

Next: Calamars on an onion/olive oil puree topped with perfect fried onion rings. The calamars was very large, divided for the two of us the portion was still large. Wonderfully tender, unlike most calamars. Both of the above with a dry, mineral-driven Spanish Albarino from Pazo de Senorans.

Next: A perfectly poached egg (likely sous vide) atop diced foie gras in a large bowl. An intense onion broth was ladled over. There was a bit of foam on top of the egg but it did not put me off like the ones that I find too cutsie and pretentious. Accompanied by a superb 2010 Meursault Limozin.

Next: Rose lamb loin wrapped with a thin layer of not-too-lamby fat. With baby eggplant and an eggplant puree. A rich, full-flavored St Emilion hit the sweet spot.

Next: Hazelnut millefeuille with yogurt meringue and one hard-caramel coated hazelnut. I wish I had a camera. The appearance of this dish was exquisite in its elegance and simplicity. By-the-way; very tasty too. A glass of Jurancon Doux – just right.

Last: Several migrandises including tiny hazelnuts coated with a very bitter chocolate to accompany our café.

The courses were complex without being complicated. I cannot, nor do I like to, keep track of 14 different ingredients. These dishes all kept the complexity going with just three or four.

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    1. re: John Talbott

      229E for 2 including a glass of Pierre Moncuit Champage and an extra glass of Jurancon Sec to start.

      1. re: jock

        Greetings Jock from Sherman Oaks, California (basically Los Angeles)! Thanks to what you've shared, now I too am booked at Goust for our final evening in Paris on Saturday, May 11th. I've gotten some wonderful tips on a previous post I started, and have had a great time getting to kind of hone in on the various personalities who post on the Paris Chow site. What a nice group of men and women you all are. We are booked dinner wise for 5 of our 6 nights, and now I'm only obsessing about Thursday the 9th., which we are still wanting to be a more formal classic French experience. Our first night will be Alycastre Bistro which I'm told is quite near our hotel, and then on Tuesday we are going to Septime. Chez Dummonet (sp?) on Wednesday. Thursday to be determined. Spring on Friday, and now Goust on Saturday.
        I'm so glad I stumbled upon your post.
        Cheers,
        Jeff

        1. re: jock

          Hello again Jock,
          Do you perhaps have any knowledge of the dinner experience at Goust? I'm learning so much about the Parisian experience via Chow, regarding luxuriant lunches which are hours long and with many wonderful courses. We will not be experiencing this way of dining, as I guess we are set in our ways. We are dinner guys. I'd be interested in hearing if you know of the price point for a degustation meal at night, and if it is similar in the amount of courses that you partook in at lunch.
          Cheers and thanks,
          Jeff

          1. re: JeffW

            If you google you will see a lot of reviews, mostly in French.

            This may help.

            http://parisbymouth.com/goust/

            1. re: JeffW

              I was able to get a dinner reservation for next week through email. Very easy compared to Abri! I too would appreciate hearing about dinner - go with ala carte or a tasting menu. Yes I would have liked to save some centime with a lunch but my schedule is booked.

        2. That did it Jock, I just called and reserved for Tuesday.

          3 Replies
          1. re: Laidback

            I would remind folks that for those of us who pinch every centime til it cries, the lunch menu is 35 E.

              1. re: John Talbott

                I pinch pennies too. See my post about Bar Fleuri. 27E for two including 500 ml wine and ccoffee.

            1. Wow. sounds 2nd cousin to perfection. I hope they're not totally "trendy" by the fall....

              2 Replies
              1. re: ChefJune

                Sorry, Chef... it's already a hot table.... rave reviews in all the French papers and blogs starting back in Feb... it took, oh, 37 minutes after its opening to achieve a "totally trendy" label

                1. re: Parnassien

                  Luckily, today's trend is tmrw's rotting fish.
                  Somebody should write a piece on staying ahead of the curve but then, we'd have to include the Lobster Bar, Helene Darroze and Martel.

              2. Although I'm usually very intrigued by modern or modernist cooking (and still plan on going to l'Astrance eventually), for some reason your review doesn't appeal to me...

                Oyster and pineapple ?
                Tuna tartare with mango ? (and a spherified coulis, which is getting old...)
                "not-too-lamby" fat ? (I'd like mine really lamby please).

                I will check some other menu reviews to see if some things tickle my mustache (although the Calamars+onion rings already do a little).

                By the way, Shiso leaf is Japanese, but I love how you wrote it Ye Olde French way !

                1 Reply
                1. re: Rio Yeti

                  Modernist, yes. Cutsie, no.

                  The pineapple was just barely a hint and the whole "bite" really worked. Perhaps my favorite bite of the whole meal.

                  The calamars was not at all rubbery and very tender.

                2. Thanks for the tip! Reserved for May 10th, dinner, easily by email.