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Paris: Looking for Modern French in June

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A friend of mine and I are ditching the husbands for a biking trip in the Loire Valley the first week of June. We will be spending a Friday and Saturday night in Paris after the trip. We are staying at the Concorde Opera Hotel. We both enjoy good wine and adventurous food. My friend especially enjoys places that are edgy and modern. We would prefer to not wander too far from the hotel but a 20 minute Metro or cab ride would be fine. We do not mind spending money on a good meal and experience but do not want to break the bank - maybe euros 125 pp with wine for one meal and a little less for the other. I have been thinking that Saturne might fit the bill for one night and thought that the comments about Maceo on the board also looked interesting. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

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  1. I think Saturne does indeed fit the bill as does Claude Colliot and Spring and while Pti will take me to task for my definition of "modern French" I think Ze Kitchen Galerie or KGB do as well.
    Also, despite its name, the Opera Concorde is not between them but in front of St Lazare but I guess calling it that is too unsexy.

    4 Replies
    1. re: John Talbott

      Thank you for your prompt reply. I knew that I could count on you! I will check out the other places that you mentioned.

      1. re: John Talbott

        The last time I checked (last Monday, that is) I had a terrible meal at Saturne. Everything was pretty but tasteless. No salt, no seasonings whatsoever, and oxalis leaves on two plates out of five. Nothing had taste (except for dessert, which didn't taste good).

        If modern means stripped down to near-nothingness, it was very modern indeed. Food gone way too far in the way of purity. Wine list still amazing.

        Septime is my favorite example of a modern Parisian restaurant right now. And there they never forget that food should have a taste.

        1. re: Ptipois

          Wow, that's disappointing. I recently had two excellent dinners at Saurne (one in late March and one in early April). Every savory course was complex, perfectly seasoned and delicious. The dessert was less fabulous but those madelines were quite tasty. In comparison, my last two dinners at Septime were not exactly delicious, and much more "simplified", although I love the space and scene there.

          1. re: Nancy S.

            Describes my feeling about Septime perfectly.

      2. I don't know Saturne, but Maceo definitely fits your description.

        1 Reply
        1. re: ChefJune

          Thank you for the reply. I thought that Maceo looked good from reading about it here on Chowhound.

        2. Saturne was my first thought as well.

          1. I’m in Paris right now, and have eaten at all of Saturne, Septime & Ze Kitchen Gallerie in the past week. Also be aware that both Septime & Saturne are closed Saturdays.

            Of the three, Ze Kitchen Gallerie was the most consistent – bold flavors and ‘edgier’ spicing. It was also the most expensive! (although you could meet your pricepoint by sticking to a couple of glasses of wine). Pacing of the meal was disturbingly erratic.

            Septime was also excellent, with some courses as good as, maybe exceeding ZKG. However, not all courses hit the heights. Excellent value winelist too.

            Saturne was – well, ho-hum. Lacked excitement. Food was competent, but didn’t zing. Also, there is ONLY the tasting menu there – no a la carte offering. They do give you a listing of the courses – except the day we were there it was the wrong list!

            1 Reply
            1. re: estufarian

              Thank you for the reviews. I will check out Septime and ZKG also.

            2. In addition to the other suggestions, Akrame on the rue Lauriston in the 16th near the Arc de Triomphe ... limited choice but very adventurous cooking.

              And I'm joining the Ptipos chorus... my last few meals at Saturne were quite dull... it used to be one of my top 5 faves but now i'm not even sure if it belongs in the top 50.