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Apr 9, 2013 01:14 PM

Mother-Daughter Trip to Paris: Last Night

Hello Paris Hounds,
My 25 year old daughter and I are coming to Paris for 6 days and nights on May 1 (I know - I already messed that one up!!). Thanks to you and constant lurking on this board while at work for the past 2 months, we've managed to put together a gastronomic festival (Spring, Le Cinq, Frenchie, Chez L'Ami Jean and others). We have just purchased tickets to Hansel & Gretel at Opera Garnier for our last night - a Monday night. Because of this, we are moving what was to be our final dinner at Josephine Chez Dumonet to a lunch that day. The opera starts at 19:30, and I assume lasts 2-3 hours. Can you recommend somewhere for us to eat a late, last meal before we fly out the following morning? We will be at the opera but our hotel is in the 6th, so either area would work. Also, I'm assuming that after a lunch at JCD we won't want anything too heavy. Also, we are considering L'Avant Comptoir and Le Barav for other evening lighter fare on other nights (and Le Barav isn't open on Mondays).

Thanks in advance for your suggestions (and also for all the past advice I used).

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  1. "after a lunch at JCD we won't want anything too heavy"
    No, after a lunch at JCD we won't want anything period.
    How about just a plate of charcuteries and a glass of superb red in a nice bustling wine bar near the Opera, like Le Rubis, 10 Rue du Marché Saint-Honoré ?

    1. "Hansel..." only goes on for 2 1/4 hours... mercifully short for a German opera. Even so, Josephine + Humperdinck is a very exhausting same-day combo. Just for the sheer convenience, maybe le Grand Café des Capucines on the boulevard des Capucines (just a few minutes from the Garnier) for a plate of shared fruits de mer and a dessert ... most of the menu is pretty standard and not very exciting but the shellfish are excellent... a very popular after-theatre place. A little further away, Parigi's suggested Le Rubis for a plate of charcuterie and cheese would be fine but it closes at 10pm. Or you can hop on the #95 bus from the place de l'Opéra to Germain des Prés for some munchies at the Point Bulles champagne bar on the rue Clément. Or for a grander end to your stay in Paris, a taxi (or #42 bus from Opéra to Clemenceau) to Mini-Palais in the Grand Palais for a snacky meal in the Terrace Bar.

      15 Replies
      1. re: Parnassien

        Thank you both for the suggestions. We were already considering Mini-Palais so that may be a great option. I also like the sound of Point Bulles Champagne Bar a lot for the last night. Sounds elegant.

        Regarding Grand Café des Capucines, my daughter is a huge oyster lover, but me...not so much, so I'm not about that as a option.

        Do we need a reservation at any of these places on a Monday night at 10:30?

        1. re: tlubow

          One more question: My daughter MUST have excellent beef tartare during this trip. Will she be able to get it at CJD or Chez L'Ami Jean? I'm assuming not at Spring, Frenchie or Le Cinq. We have not booked for Sunday evening and are also considering Café Constant, Le Relais du Comptoir, Semilla and Dans les Landes. Any of these serving beef tartare? Also, considering lunch the first day (May 1) at Terrior Parisien. We wanted Metropolitain, but they appear to be closed. Thanks again.

          1. re: tlubow

            Why not go to a meat place?
            Severo or Bis
            Charbon Rouge
            Le Flamboire
            Drugstore Steakhouse
            Atelier Vivanda
            etc etc etc.

            1. re: John Talbott

              Thanks for the suggestions, but sorry for not looking each one up first (I'm at work, as usual), do you happen to know if any of the above meat places are open on Sunday night? The only other available time we have is lunch the first day after arrival, prior to dinner at Frenchie. I'm not sure we want a meat meal when we will be so tired and jet lagged.

              1. re: tlubow

                Charbon Rouge is and Chere & Tendre, a new one I have not been to.

                1. re: John Talbott

                  We happen to like the way steak tartare is prepared at Balzar; it is open late on Sundays.

                  1. re: Oakglen

                    Hmmm. They also serve it at lunch and they are also open on May 1. We may just do lunch here on our first day. Is anything else decent?

                    1. re: tlubow

                      Anything that must be prepared to order will be just fine. If you like Poulet roti/ frites, like me, don't order it at odd hours; reheating can be an issue with rotisserie dishes.

                  2. re: John Talbott

                    Charbon Rouge isn't open on Sundays, unfortunately. The only one open on your list in Drugstore Steakhouse. Is it any good?

                    1. re: tlubow

                      Whoops correct; it was Saturday I was there.

              2. re: tlubow

                You don't have to go out of your way to find good steak tartare... in St Germain des Prés, my top picks would be Pinxo and Semilla. For all around classic tartare, I would however make a slight detour to the landmark La Rotonde (open 7/7) on the boulevard Montparnasse followed by a little stroll to the fab Piano Bar at the Closerie des Lilas to complete the sense of la-vie-est-belle.

                Re after the Garnier,
                Personally I wouldn't reserve for a 10:30 table on a Monday night... but, because of sheer unfamiliarity, tourists might feel it's safer to do so.
                Point Bulles is more festive than elegant, just your regular neighbourhood champagne bar... oysters for your daughter and, say, rillettes de canard or lamb brochettes for you... but the vibe will probably be somewhat less bubbly than usual on a Monday night.
                Since you have already short-listed Mini-Palais, maybe that would be the better bet. And then you can walk across the Pont Alexandre III to make your farewells to Paris...magical... if too tired to walk home, there's a station de taxis on the rue Robert Esnault Pelterie next to the Invalides Air France bus terminal... 2 mins from the Rive Gauche side of the bridge.

                1. re: Parnassien

                  All wonderful suggestions. Thank you. I am not inclined to make a reservation for after the opera. I'd rather leave it open and decide then if we want to head to Mini Palais or to Point Bulles. We had already been considering Semilla for Sunday night or possibly late Friday after we do the Louvre for evening hours, so my daughter may get her tartare fix then. Will look at La Rotonde as well for a possibly Sunday night option followed by Piano Bar. I have several reservations set and am leaving a few meals "open" with options in hand. We will need to gauge our appetites on a day to day basis, and I'm trying to only schedule one set restaurant meal per day. I have a lot of possibilities in hand, and I'm certain we will leave Paris fully satiated! I appreciate the help from all the Paris contingent.

                2. re: tlubow

                  wonderful steak tartare @ Josephine. I can still taste it!

                  1. re: ChefJune

                    Thanks. It appears we will be awash with steak tartare! I know I said one more question up above, but I have another last question and maybe someone (including Parigi) can chime in.

                    We have reservations for Chez L'ami Jean on Thurs. night. I've been about 5 years ago and loved it, but my experience was marred by being with a group of picky eaters, so I'm really looking forward to going back with someone who loves food! I have read on Chowhound that there are 3 prix fixe formulas, but when I read the extensive Trip Advisor reviews, not a mention is made of any formula other than the grand 75 euro tasting or a la carte, which we prefer not to do. We were thinking more realistically of the mid-level formula, which I believe is in the high 50 euro range. Does this program no longer exist? Is it not available at dinner? Is it not offered to tourists?

                    Many thanks in advance.

                3. re: tlubow

                  I have had good oysters at L'Atlas, rue de Buci, in the 6th. I do not believe that this brasserie is a gourmet temple, but the oysters were ok. I looked at its website and was unable to determine the opening hours.