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Apr 6, 2013 07:00 AM

The Heirloom Cafe (2500 Folsom, SF)

The Heirloom Cafe gets a very positive review from Nicholas Lander in this weekend's Financial Times.

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  1. what's the gist of it? i'm not a subscriber

    5 Replies
    1. re: vulber

      You can sign up for free for a limited number of articles per month.

      1. re: vulber

        The gist is it's damn good. The owner also acts as sommelier and the wine list is excellent (approved by Lander's wife, Jancis Robinson). Corkage is $25 for young wines, $10 for anything 2002 or older. The service is good and a substitution was made graciously.

        1. re: samo

          it's not a very accessible wine list IMO - while i don't know very much about wine, i enjoy god wine - and when i asked for a good pairing with my burger, i was given a $15 glass (standard price for most of the stuff on the choices) that wasn't anything special

          1. re: vulber

            I enjoy good wine too. And some of the wines on the list are excellent. Few are obscure and all but one is available by the glass (prices from 10 to 20 dollars per glass, with most around 13), which is terrific.

            1. re: samo

              The older wines aren't on the list on the web site.

      2. I haven't been since soon after they opened but the wine list was remarkable.

        1. I moved to San Francisco at the beginning of 2013, and normally I wouldn't post here with such a limited scope of experience, but I am excited to share how much we enjoy Heirloom Cafe. Since moving here we've dined at a number of well-regarded places, and HC has stood out as a favorite. Our experiences there have been marked with great ingredients, great cooking, great wines, and warm hospitality.

          (For the sake of context, other restaurants where I've had repeated super experiences with both food and hospitality include Outerlands, State Bird Provisions, and Piccino.)

          1. We attended a special Ceritas Wine retrospective dinner here last night (normally closed on Sunday).
            All the food on each course was impeccably prepared, flavorful and beautifully presented.
            If you have ever sampled Ceritas wines, they are fresh and vibrant. The philosophy of owner winemaker John Raytek is to pick early when ripe, not overripe and keep alcohols on the lower side. It was a pleasure talking to John and wife Phoebe about wine and their journey into winemaking.
            Here is what we had:

            Fennel. fava beans, walnuts feta.
            2011 Charles Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay

            Wild salmon, English peas, cauliflower puree, meyer lemon.
            2009 Porter-Bass Vineyard Chardonnay
            2008 Porter-Bass Vineyard Chardonnay
            2007 Porter-Bass Vineyard Chardonnay

            Housemade fettucini, chanterelle mushrooms, mint, pecorino
            2011 "Costalina" Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

            Duck Breast and confit, cherries, corn spoon bread
            2010 Escarpa Vineyard Pinot Noir
            2009 Escarpa Vineyard Pinot Noir
            2008 Escarpa Vineyard Pinot Noir

            Dessert was an almond torte with fresh stone fruit and creme fraiche.

            Owner Matt Straus was a super host getting around to each table making sure all was going well.
            Based on the quality of food and service last night, we will be sure to get back to Heirloom Cafe soon.


            1. Went here tonight for the first time. it seemed no one here has really talked about the food.

              we shared the butternut squash soup with pumpkin oil and pumpernickel croutons - wonderful. rich, creamy, and the pumpkin oil gave a nice little bite to the soup. we also split a beet salad with pickled fennel, almond butter, and feta. it was good and fresh, and tasted better as individual components rather than taking bites of everything at once (at which point the flavors kind of cancelled each other out). my friend, a vegetarian, had a couscous dish with dates, sweet potato, yogurt, cilantro, and i'm not sure what else - Moroccan flavors, very comforting, but not very exciting. I was torn between the crispy gnocchi with shaved truffle and a sunny-side-up egg, and the off-the-menu Epoisses burger (cheese inside the burger) with an onion marmalade, which sounded divine. i went with the gnocchi because the server told me the burger was almost always available. the gnocchi were good, very cheesy, but maybe a bit too crispy for me. the truffle shavings were a disappointment, because, although there was a generous amount of them, they had only a slight truffle aroma but no truffle flavor to speak of. i've learned that this is typical of certain truffles, but for me it's not worth having them. the egg was perfect for the dish, making a lovely sauce for the gnocchi. we also split what may have been my favorite dish of the night - braised kale with a carrot hummus. salty, garlicky, wonderfully flavored and perfectly cooked kale, with a sweetish-gingery puree of carrot. my dish went up quite a few notches by adding the kale to it.

              upon request they brought us some bread, but no butter, and i can't remember where the bread was from, but it was good. somewhere on Divis, i believe. I'm recently spoiled by the dark sourdough at Tartine, though, so i'm a little picky about breads at the moment.

              the wine selection is quite impressive, as little as i know about wine. i first had a glass of the Clochet Sancerre - pretty typical for Sancerre, to me. my second glass - the Puffeny Savagnin, from the Jura region - was new to me, and a standout. it had a sherry-like flavor that went really well with the food. i was happy they also serve wine by the half-glass, as i had to have just a little bit more. i took a look at the full wine book selection - all by the bottle only - and was surprised that there were a few available for fairly reasonable prices. my friend isn't much of a drinker so we didn't order a bottle, but i would venture into the older bottles if i had others with me who would enjoy them.

              the place itself is great - warm and welcoming, with bar/kitchen-watching seating, a long, family-style shared table, and small tables ringing the edges of the restaurant. the chef de cuisine had a birthday and the whole restaurant sang happy bday to him, and his little 4 year old adorable-as-hell daughter helped serve dishes to customers. very charming, with a rustic/elegant air to it, and still a family, locals place feel to it.

              Overall, very good, though i'd say not stellar. I mentioned to the server that even though i live 3 blocks away this was my first time there, though my BF and i have passed by it many times and said, "we should go there". i told her that the restaurant doesn't seem to be highly touted - not that it's not spoken well of, but there doesn't seem to be any "buzz" around it. She agreed, and said, "we kind of like it like that" - and i can see that; it seems that they have quite a regulars following. comfort food in an elegant yet homey setting.

              i'm definitely going back for that burger. oh, and the 3-course prix fixe, with its wine pairings included (i THINK) in the $65 price tag, will also draw me back. (by the way, their online menu is not up-to-date.)

              1 Reply
              1. re: mariacarmen

                highly recommend subscribing to their newsletters. very much have a "personal" sense.