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foodie finds near Republique

Sue R Apr 4, 2013 12:20 PM

Looking for some interesting bistrots right around Republique for the first night of a vacation with jet lagging teenagers.

Last year we went to Paul Bert and we were all far too crabby.

  1. o
    oferl Apr 21, 2013 11:20 PM

    A quick question regarding Du Pains et Les Idees - if we would like to pass there around 15:00 and the afternoon, does it make sense and they might have another round of fresh bread and pastries or only early morning is the best time to pass ? We arrive at noon and looking for something light before dinner, it's Monday and some places are closed in the area, like Genin :-(

    1. l
      lemarais Apr 12, 2013 03:51 PM

      About 8 blocks from République is Le Taxi Jaune,. recommended to me last year by Parnessian. (Thanks!)

      Had a great meal there. Local, informal bistro with young fearless chef turning out magnificent food-- I frankly enjoy these types much better than the hyped old-school Michelin.

      28 Replies
      1. re: lemarais
        Parnassien Apr 13, 2013 02:52 AM

        I'm surprised (but not disappointed) that more tourists don't find their way to Le Taxi Jaune... the food is great and the ambiance has that cutesy factor that visitors enjoy... maybe it's the horsemeat thing.

        1. re: Parnassien
          lemarais Apr 13, 2013 08:56 AM

          Yes, well, we did do a double take when we saw "cheval" written on the tableau. (As well as beef cheeks).

          I don't remember what we ordered, but it wasn't cheval or joues de boeuf...We did enjoy the place a lot.

          1. re: lemarais
            PhilD Apr 13, 2013 04:26 PM

            Shame you passed on the beef cheeks they are a wonderful cut of meat. Usually slow cooked to make a very soft unctuous dish. One of those cheap "lost cuts" like lamb shanks that have come back into vogue.

            1. re: PhilD
              c oliver Apr 13, 2013 07:08 PM

              I SO agree with you, Phil. I first had beef cheeks at Babbo inNYC about five years ago. They are fabulous and I cook them a couple of times a year. I'm lucky I can get them at our local Latino market. BTW, they make super tacos.

              1. re: c oliver
                lemarais Apr 13, 2013 08:52 PM

                Folks have had similar praise for the horse there, but I'll pass on both of them. Do you folks like Tablier de Sapeur?

                1. re: lemarais
                  c oliver Apr 13, 2013 09:03 PM

                  I don't know if I would eat horse because I used to have them. But to me beef cheeks are just another part of the cow. Don't know how it's different from an (ox)tail, shank etc.

                  1. re: c oliver
                    lemarais Apr 13, 2013 10:54 PM

                    Actually, if you ever met a pig you would probably find them to be quite endearing, quite sentient, and quite like a dog in intelligence and attachment. A lot more personality than a horse.

                    Ever eat tripe? (tablier de sapeur). Just another part of the steer.

                    1. re: lemarais
                      PhilD Apr 14, 2013 01:45 AM

                      Beef cheeks are beef muscle as are all the other cuts of meat from a steer so very similar to brisket, flank etc etc. Tripe is offal, not really muscle, so is very dissimilar to other "cuts" of beef. I understand people's aversion to organ meat but beef cheeks seem o normal.....I am curious why so against them?

                      1. re: PhilD
                        c oliver Apr 14, 2013 09:01 AM

                        I think a lot of people have a blind aversion to tripe. The above mentioned stew is so good and the tripe in such tiny pieces, I'd almost defy a tripe hater to know what they were eating.

                        1. re: c oliver
                          Delucacheesemonger Apr 15, 2013 05:46 AM

                          Tablier de sapeur which means 'apron' is a very large piece of tripe battered and fired, not a stewlike dish.

                      2. re: lemarais
                        c oliver Apr 14, 2013 08:59 AM

                        Oh, I know that pigs are smart. Horses aren't particularly. But I owned horses and that established a 'relationship' that MIGHT make me pass on eating it. But not necessarily :) I AM a CH!

                        I LOVE tripe. Started 30 or so years ago with the ubiquitous menudo (for its 'healing' properties). I recently made a stunning Portuguese tripe stew.

                    2. re: lemarais
                      Delucacheesemonger Apr 14, 2013 12:28 AM

                      Tripe is one of my favorite things, l pass on the Tablier as is fried, but l add another big vote for beef cheeks.

                      1. re: Delucacheesemonger
                        c oliver Apr 14, 2013 09:02 AM

                        Fried tripe. Hmm, trying to imagine the texture of that one. I've only had it low and slow but to each his own.

                        1. re: c oliver
                          rswatkins Apr 15, 2013 08:19 AM

                          Not really fried. Poached, then breaded and grilled, a la St. Menehoulde (sp?).

                          1. re: rswatkins
                            c oliver Apr 15, 2013 08:28 AM

                            Ah, that I can understand. Thanks.

                            1. re: c oliver
                              mangeur Apr 15, 2013 09:33 AM

                              The main problem with tablier de sapeur, as served in buchons in Lyon, is the portion size. Huge. A little is manageable, but a square foot becomes a Herculean task.

                              1. re: mangeur
                                c oliver Apr 15, 2013 09:50 AM

                                Yea, I'd had that thought also. Imaging one of those big ole things sitting on my plate :)

                            2. re: rswatkins
                              Delucacheesemonger Apr 22, 2013 02:43 AM

                              thanks, thought sauteed/fried in moderately deep fat, guess you are trying to distinguish deepfrying with pan sauteeing, as you wish.

                            3. re: c oliver
                              ChefJune Apr 22, 2013 01:11 PM

                              [The best thing I ate in France last fall was the Gras Double at Daniel et Denise! (in Lyon)]

                2. re: lemarais
                  John Talbott Dec 12, 2013 10:11 AM

                  "Le Taxi Jaune"
                  After seeing Parnassien's recs several times and needing a place to go near my pal of 50+ years' cabinet, we went today and it is a genuine truly dark and dirty (figuratively) bistro in a weird schmates neighborhood. Fun, fun, fun but not sure a destination for a visitor with limited eating opportunities. But for students - a bill of 48 E a couple for 3-courses (including ristretto coffees) and 50 cl of wine is certainly light on the wallet.

                  1. re: John Talbott
                    Parnassien Dec 12, 2013 11:47 AM

                    JT, very glad you found your way to Taxi Jaune. It is, I think, a restaurant with a soul.

                    Like you, I tend to favour restos with a more creative or at least modern cuisine. But these are becoming the new (and somewhat dulling) normal and quite regularly I need to recharge my "paname" core (and coeur) and to treat my tastebuds to good food that does not require thinking. Of course finding a place with such a superb price/ quality ratio makes it all the more delicious. Throw in a clientele that represents the quartier (trendies, old fuddy-duddies, gay, straight, be-jeaned students, Versace-clad art dealers, etc) and, for me, a little bit of Taxi Jaune magic is created. The honest and authentic food is very good but, as you say, does not qualify it as a destination resto for purist foodies. But the overall package makes it one of the few restaurants that I will go out of my way for.

                    1. re: Parnassien
                      John Talbott Dec 12, 2013 01:32 PM

                      "restaurant with a soul."
                      You know, that would make a great thread.
                      Restaurants with a soul. Wow. You want to start it? I'll plunge in as I'll bet Parigi and Pti and our now rediscovered Soup would.

                      1. re: John Talbott
                        Parnassien Dec 12, 2013 02:39 PM

                        Ok, I start with Taxi Jaune in the 3rd, Les Pipos in the 5th, Ober-Salé in the 11th, and Etchegorry in the 13th. :)

                        1. re: John Talbott
                          mangeur Dec 12, 2013 03:02 PM

                          Why do I get the feeling that agreeing on "soul" is going to give "best" a run for its money?

                      2. re: John Talbott
                        ChefJune Dec 12, 2013 12:08 PM

                        JT, what's a "schmates" neighborhood? I only know "Schmatte" as a "rag" or housedress...

                        1. re: ChefJune
                          John Talbott Dec 12, 2013 01:29 PM

                          Sorry, I guess you don't live in NY. German/Yiddish is/was my first language,
                          Quite right - it's the rag district, like 32nd St in NYC. Guys pushing huge loads of (probably Chinese-origined,) vetements through the streets, I got a great pix of one, to soon be posted elsewhere.
                          In any case, it's not a street or district one or at least I would expect a good bistro to be on.

                          1. re: John Talbott
                            Parnassien Dec 12, 2013 02:33 PM

                            Do bags/ maroquinerie qualify as schmates ? Because that's what seems to dominate on the rue Chapon. There are indeed some vêtement import/ export wholesalers but I seem to remember shop after shop with bags/ leather goods/ etc on display.

                            For your rag trade fix, try starting off with lunch at the oh-so-hip Edgar on the rue d'Alexandria/ rue Sainte-Foy and then wandering through the warren of streets off the rue Saint-Denis between rue Réamur and the Porte St-Denis. And oh, what's the Yiddish for streetwalker ? Because dodging the dodgy prozzies as well as the racks of clothes being pushed around will be required.

                            1. re: John Talbott
                              ChefJune Dec 12, 2013 02:36 PM

                              I do live in New York, and I'm Jewish. but I never learned Yiddish. My father and g-mother used the language to speak in private. [We call that the Garment District in NYC.]

                              OTOH, these days, you might find a "good bistro" in almost any part of Manhattan (or Brooklyn, for that matter).

                      3. Parnassien Apr 4, 2013 05:29 PM

                        With teenagers in tow (even when not jetlagged), Bang! at 112 quai Jemmapes... a relatively cheap and very cheerful "grillade" with excellent meat (including kangaroo) for doing it yourself at the table or letting the kitchen doing it to order... not a conventional bistro with sometimes interminable waits so perfect for jet-lagged dinners... 10- to 15-minute walk (partly along the very picturesque Canal St Martin) from République... if not too jet-lagged, you can stop off at Café Prune on the rue Beaurepaire/ quai Valmy for coffee/ dessert and people-watching on the way back to your hotel but, if a weekend night, will be very crowded.

                        A grillade with American steakhouse echoes, L'Aller-Retour on the rue Charles-François-Dupuis in the 3rd has an anti-jet lag buzz and a youngish clientèle... ultra-charming little patch of Paris just behind la République. Just around the corner on the rue Corderie, L'Ilot is a delightful but tiny oyster/ seafood bistro ... very limited menu ... and, again, often a little too crowded at weekends. BTW, I highly recommend Mary Gelateria on the rue Charles-François-Dupuis for some excellent Italian-style ice cream... closes at 8pm so not an option for an after-dinner treat but since you will be near, a to-do on some other day.

                        If just a plate of superior charcuterie and cheese or bar food is all that your jet-lagged body can manage, Le Barav on the rue Charles-François-Dupuis in the 3rd, l'Entrée des Artistes on the rue Crussol in the 11th, and La Patache on the rue Lancry/ 10th might be worth considering if your teenagers are old enough and sophisticated enough to appreciate such places. Same goes for the wine-bar Inaro on the rue René-Boulanger just off la Répu... excellent nosh but the emphasis is on wine (maybe a a wee bit too earnestly so for teenagers).

                        If you want to risk the bistro formula again, lots of choices. Pramil and Le Vertbois both on rue Vertbois in the 3rd. Ober-Sale on the rue Oberkampf in the 11th... one of my favourite go-to bistros in the area. The very foodie-ish (yet wonderfully enjoyable for the buzz as well) Pierre-Sang Boyer on the rue Oberkampf... a no-rezzie place so, as John Talbott implies, you gotta get there at 7 to ensure no waiting for your jet-lagged family. Bistrot des Oies on the rue Marie-et-Louise in the Canal St Martin quartier and the Chez Marie Louise on the rue Marie-et-Louise, the bright and buzzy non-traditional brasserie Le Floréal on the rue Faubourg du Temple, the ultra-cool tapas bar/ resto Aux Deux Amis on the rue Oberkampf, etc etc

                        2 Replies
                        1. re: Parnassien
                          Sue R Apr 6, 2013 10:40 AM

                          You are amazing. Thank you

                          1. re: Sue R
                            John Talbott Apr 6, 2013 07:42 PM

                            Yup; he is.

                        2. John Talbott Apr 4, 2013 03:17 PM

                          Think other side:
                          Pierre Sang Boyer in Oberkampf (must arrive on time)
                          Repaire de Cartouche

                          5 Replies
                          1. re: John Talbott
                            Sue R Apr 11, 2013 12:14 PM

                            JT, since we may be eating a bit early, maybe 7, do you think there will be a long wait time at Pierre Sang?

                            1. re: Sue R
                              John Talbott Apr 11, 2013 01:10 PM

                              Maybe Parnassien can answer; I don't eat at night so I've always gone 10 minutes before noon and been first in line.

                              1. re: John Talbott
                                Parnassien Apr 11, 2013 05:46 PM

                                Same in the evening... get there at, say, 6:45 for the 7pm opening and there should be no problems... i eat much later and so can't be 100% sure about the opening wait on always difficult Fri and Sat nights... and I always have plan b alternatives (i.e. Ober-Salé, Aux Deux Amis, etc) up my sleeve just in case

                              2. re: Sue R
                                Delucacheesemonger Apr 12, 2013 08:08 AM

                                Was there with a group of 5 about 4 months ago at 6:45 and we were the second group in line, thus no problem.

                                1. re: Delucacheesemonger
                                  souphie Dec 12, 2013 11:35 AM

                                  You call being there at 6.45 no problem?

                            2. m
                              Maximilien Apr 4, 2013 01:55 PM

                              I will be in the area in May, a couple of places on my "extended list" that looks nice.

                              Mems (1 Rue de Marseille)
                              INORA (38 Rue René Boulanger)
                              Le Petit Matieu (55 Rue des Vinaigriers)
                              Le Patache (60 Rue de Lancry)
                              Le Verre Volé (67 Rue de Lancry)
                              Chez Prune (36 Rue Beaurepaire).

                              1 Reply
                              1. re: Maximilien
                                souphie Dec 12, 2013 11:34 AM

                                Second le Patache and their cote de boeuf.

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