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Oct 21, 1999 04:36 PM

Kreuz market update - God does listen

  • g

I've recently had the priveledge of giving the new Kreuz Market (Lockhart, TX barbecue) a thorough going over. I approached the new building and its crucial pits with some trepidation. After all, how do you recreate something that was 80 years in the making? Failure to successfully recreate the temple of Texas Barbecue could well have created a 'cue crisis. Without the Kreuz beacon to follow, quality might have suffered on a statewide basis.

Not to worry. The prayers of the faithful have been answered. The 'cue at the new location is as good as the old ever was. Pitmaster Roy is working his magic on a pit area about eight times the size of the original. The fires are still on the floor, but you no longer have to brave the heat to get to the goods.

All of the meats are a succulent as ever. I went in doubting the ability of the food to recover from the move, but quickly cast those doubts aside. In fact, I found myself returning within the week. The line for the sides is unchanged, but you do now have the choice of eating in a large screened area or in an airconditioned room, which also stores Blue Bell ice cream and fresh meats (don't forget the meat market roots of the place). I prefer the screened area if it's under 90 or so.

One side note. Don't take a Canadian along. Our misguided Canadian companion actually asked for dry beef. He meant lean beef (a bad idea, but not a 'cue crime) but we did have to fight our way through the glares of regulars and pitmen. I was afraid for a minute we'd be banned for life. Dry beef. I still can't believe he said that.

In short, go back to Kreuz, it's still the king. As for the old market, the mean sister in the story who forced the move is trying to operate a barbecue place in the old building she selfishly took from her brother. I haven't seen any cars in her parking lot. 'Nuff said.

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  1. Greg,

    I haven't been to Lockheart in years. Over all of Texas great bar-b-que places crop up. I was glad to hear your original post mentioning some of my favorites

    I must state I do believe rating BBQ places is like viewing a major beauty pageant. Though each of us may have our favorites, there will be several stunning examples in the 'top 10', none can honestly deny this.

    One of my favorites was "Miller's" in Georgetown in the mid seventies. I will give Morice Plyant in Glen Rose top grades until his death. Many of the shops throughout Central Texas are tough to better.

    Texas is large enough to have several distinct styles of BBQ. Affectionados of the style and sauces of 'German' style might not appreciate the East Texas style or the type cooked around the 'Big Bend'.

    One of my more memorable BBQ meals was served at the 'Piasño encampment by the '06 ranch on pits built on old WWI artillery carriages.

    Ron Brown -

    4 Replies
    1. re: Ron B

      Hi, Ron

      thanks for posting.

      Hey, if you have a sec, I'd love it if you could expand a little bit on the different types of 'cue in Texas (German vs. East Texas, etc etc).

      Also, what do you think about the Salt Lick? I've heard reports that it's gone downhill...

      There are a lot of chowhounds in Texas, and we're hoping to attract some of 'em to this board, because the cuisine down there (not just 'cue) is real interesting: German meets Mexican meets Native American meets Scottish/Welsh (with a touch of Cajun!).

      Please spread the word about us, ok?

      And, believe it or not, we've got one good Texas-style place in New York (see the discussion of "Pearson's" on the New York Outer Boroughs Message board!)


      1. re: Jim Leff

        I went to Salt Lick for the first time last year, and I wasn't very impressed. Not nearly on the level of Kruez. On the way out, I took a look at their bottled sauce, and the ingredients were on the fake side. And it has something like soy sauce in it, I think. Weird.

        1. re: Cathy

          Salt Lick is fun and everything, but it isn't a wart on the rump of Kreuz, and I suspect it never has been. The sauce is indeed a distant relative of teriyaki sauce--which makes sense, because one of the founders is Hawaiian.

          1. re: j gold

            Yup, go to Kreuz!
            My wife and I just moved to Austin from Boulder, Colorado. Locals sometimes shake their heads and ask "why did you leave Colorado? It's so beautiful."

            Well, here's one great reason. All doubts, even Susan's (No forks. No plates. No sauce? No sides - not even cole slaw! Let's go someplace else.) dissipated when consuming that glorious pork loin. Unfortunately they were out of brisket, but the beefy clod and, Susan's fave, the greasy-good sausage more than made up. I bought some chips but never even opened the bag.

            When friends and relatives come down, we won't go to the tourist-friendly places that conspire to make every locale the same. We're takin' 'em to Kreuz.