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Mar 22, 2013 12:12 PM

Les Halles/Marais Restaurant Suggestions for dinners

Renting an apartment near Les Halles for 8 nights and looking to walk to dinner each night...will use the lunches/days to explore outside the area.
I have targetted a few already: Une Poule Sur Un Mur, Pain Vin Fromage, Aux Tonneaux des Halles, and Chez Robert et Louise....would like to find 4 more in the area and, if at all possible, be able to look at their sample menu. ALSO: Looking at having a "special occasion" meal (lunch) at Le Jules Verne in the Eiffel Tower...any input on that would be greatly appreciated.

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  1. Reviews of "Jules Verne" seems to be not that great...
    (look in


    Maybe try Le Grand Vefour, La Tour d'Argent or Le Cinq instead ?

    Another suggestion near/around the Marais :

    I really liked "Claude Colliot" (40, rue des Blancs-Manteaux).

    3 Replies
    1. re: Maximilien

      I do too but it's adventerous food. Some folk (D Lebovitz) tkinks too much.

      1. re: John Talbott honor to have John Talbott in my thread!!...seriously....been following his blog ever since my decision to take my foodie trip to Paris. I'm going to add some resto review requests for my day trips/lunches: For the Rue Muffetard/Luxembourg Gardens day...L'Estrapade, Cafe Le Papillon, and Le Cafe de la Nouvelle Mairie. For my Eiffel Tower day (looking to, perhaps, eliminate Jules Verne and do the tour but eat outside): Au Petit Sud Ouest, La Cafe de Mars, and Cafe Constant. For my Louis Vuitton/Chanel/Shopping day: Le Souffle then Pierre Herme. For my ile Saint Louis/Notre Dame/Left Bank day: Cafe Panis.For my Musee d'Orsay/Musee de l'Orangerie day: lunch at Musee d'Orsay. For my Place Des Vosges day: Cafe Hugo, Camille, or Les Temps des Cerises. One last day is Saint-Germain des Pres for shopping, and still exploring the think, however, I need to visit Bon Marche, perhaps lunch near there on Rue de Sevres rather than along the blvd or on Rue Jacob.
        Any reviews/input is greatly appreciated.

        1. re: VegasGourmet

          " honor to have John Talbott in my thread!!..."
          Cut it out, I'm really human - as Willie the S. said "If you prick us, do we not bleed?" Ask my wife, family or friends and certainly my hate-mailers - But the places you are referencing are not my favorites,
          I'll fall back on my basic rule - go anywhere within or indeed, without Paris (the RER is a blessing from on high); you'll be there in 45-55 minutes max.

    2. We're just back from a few days in Paris and very much enjoyed the food at Métropolitain and Le 6 Paul Bert. Both are a short walk from the Saint Paul Métro stop.

      Of the two, I enjoyed the former more... very skilled cooking. Le 6 Paul Bert does the 'plat' style of serving and I'd suggest ordering 3 if you end up there. They lost my booking although I had called twice to confirm things. Graciously, they let us stay as they were not filled up. Their desserts were fantastic.

      18 Replies
      1. re: zuriga1

        Hi Zuriga, I trust your tastes (and have benefited from them in the past). Have you written a trip report? I'd love to read it.

        1. re: LulusMom

          That's a very nice and appreciated comment from you LulusMom... many thanks. I haven't written a trip report as I also report on Virtual Tourist and did that first.

          At Metropolitain, my husband had a delicious scallop soup and I had an egg en croute with asparagus for starters. Both were outstanding. The mains were fine but nothing unusual... steak with wonderful potatoes Anna and a fish dish.

          I loved the milk ice cream at Le 6 Paul Bert. It was served with a wonderful lemon tuile concoction. The real star was my husband's chocolate dessert.. ganache and a biscuit and something else I can't remember, but it was fantastic.

          For fun we had an American breakfast at a place in the Marais. It turned out the waitress grew up a bit north of where I lived outside NYC. I haven't had home fries and eggs for ages, so it was a real treat, silly as that sounds.

          My favorite dish of all was a ravioli filled with ricotta and the most yummy lobster sauce... from Chez Oscar near the Bastille Metro. It was a real surprise to find this at a place we just stopped in for lunch after a late arrival in Paris. I'm not hard to please. :-)

          1. re: zuriga1

            Thanks so much for the details Zuriga. I've got 3 Paris dinners in a couple of months and it is always so hard to pin down where to go. Your post will help.

            Just to let you know, my husband was in Oxford last week and I insisted he take himself to the Magdalen Arms (you had recommended it to me last autumn and I loved it). He has been raving about the venison there since he got home.

            1. re: LulusMom

              These days, it sure is difficult trying to choose where to eat... Paris, London, NYC etc. Aren't we the lucky ones? :-)

              I think we'll be getting back to the Magdalen one of these days again if we ever have some decent weather. I hope they still have some venison for my partner.. one of his favorites.

              1. re: zuriga1

                We are the lucky ones indeed!

                At the M Arms, I had an amazing starter of grilled squid with salsa verde.

        2. re: zuriga1

          Just a note, 6 Paul Bert is a 30 minute walk from St Paul metro, and is closest to Faidherbe Chaligny metro stop on the 8 Line.

          1. re: Delucacheesemonger

            We had dinner there yesterday. The lemon dessert was devine, as was the bread. The price is good, and the scene is lively, but some of the selections need work. Saturne and Sola are much more delicious, albeit more expensive.

            1. re: Delucacheesemonger

              Yes, I know.... we took the metro there. To me, 30 minutes to walk is not a big deal in Paris. I guess it's not exactly a 'short' hop. From Bastille we would have walked but it was cold and raining.

              1. re: zuriga1

                Am I correct in assuming the Paul Bert in the Marché aux Puces has nothing to do with the Paul Bert in the 11th ?

                I'd also add a place to this thread that some friends recently took me to, la Tartine. It's on the north side of the rue de Rivoli, also very close to the St. Paul métro. This is a 30s style bistrot with simple cuisine (including tartines, of course) at reasonable prices. Some expansion going on, on the other side of the weirdly painted back wall.

                1. re: RandyB

                  I think Paul Bert of the Marché has something to do with a flea market. I found this on Google...

                  The Marché Paul Bert was founded just after the Second World War. The owner of what was a market garden decided to put it to a different use and on part of the plot he set up first a motor garage (later on, this became the Marché Serpette). With the consent of the municipal authorities, he set aside the rest of his land for renting stalls to secondhand dealers.

                  1. re: RandyB

                    It depends on what you mean "nothing to do with?"
                    Paul Bert was a zoologist for whom a part of the flea market and street in the 11th were named. The street has two restaurants (Bistro PB and 6 PB) named after the street.

                    1. re: John Talbott

                      I really do believe that many people think Paul Bert is the chef at the restaurants.

                      1. re: zuriga1

                        Well, he'd be looking a little peaked at 180.

                        1. re: John Talbott

                          "Peaked" as in a roof, or "piqued" , the french way? Lol.

                          1. re: lemarais

                            I'm guessing John meant "peaked" as in feeling poorly. (2-syllable pronunciation)

                              1. re: John Talbott

                                Well, not to be "picky", but the french spelling has the 2 syllable choice (accent aigu) and the definition of the french-spelled word is a lot closer to what you seem to mean. Just sayin' :)

              2. pirouette -a JT pick. across the street from Les Halles and a very fine meal. One of the best dinners we have had recently..

                2 Replies
                1. re: pammi

                  "pirouette -a JT pick"
                  How did I forget to recommend it here? I love it.

                  1. re: pammi

                    we had a very good dinner at Pirouette, as well. nice dining space, not a strain to converse in, good wines to pick from.

                  2. Restaurants abound in the Marais. As I've said on other threads, the best cooking in Paris today (IMO) is being done at the less formal bistros by young unafraid-to-experiment chefs.

                    Metropolitain is a great example.

                    Le Taxi Jaune
                    Claude Colliot
                    Le Temps des cerises
                    Le Gaigne

                    Robert & Louise, an interesting steak experience in a congenial atmosphere. Not really a bistro.

                    Have a drink or snack at the historic Au Petit Fer a Cheval, great horseshoe-shaped Zinc.

                    And if you're out late, after a show or jazz concert at the Duc des Lombards, get a casual bite at Cafe du Tresor. Nice. Since the city rebuilt the dead end street, it's very very pleasant outside.

                    7 Replies
                    1. re: lemarais

                      Very helpful. My first trip to Paris I had lunch at Au Petit Fer a Cheval, and a drink I think at Zinc.

                      Metropolitain is looking very tempting.

                      1. re: LulusMom

                        Thoughts anyone?.....Thinking of bypasssing ile St Louis and walking to Notre Dame, then lunch at Chez Rene and head over to Bon Marche Epicerie....also looking at Pramil for another "walk to dinner" restos near the apartment.

                        1. re: VegasGourmet

                          My last meal there after their change of management was very disappointing. Chez Rene's chicken in wine used to be the gold standard.

                          1. re: VegasGourmet

                            mmm I haven't been to Chez Rene in a long time, but I fondly remember a tasty lamb with white beans. Too bad if it's gone down the tubes...

                            1. re: ChefJune

                              Yes Chef; but it changed owners and team and is no longer itself.

                              1. re: John Talbott

                                you've saved me an unpleasant visit!

                                1. re: John Talbott

                                  John.....After Notre Dame I have chosen 4....La Tournebievre, L'Ecluse and La Bouteille d'Or...all along the Seine; also interested in visiting Shakespeare & Co bookstore, so looking at Le Petit Chatelet next door.
                                  Also looking at walking Rue Cler after the Eiffel Tower and the restos on Saint Dominique (both Constants, La Fontaine and Le Violon d' Ingres)...
                                  Any thoughts?...many thx (again)

                        2. We had a lovely lunch at Aux Tonneaux des Halles, and definitely recommend the Steak with Bordelais sauce. Lovely young man running the place, too. :)

                          2 Replies
                          1. re: ChefJune

                            June....Looking at doing this resto on our first night while exploring Rue Montorgueil.....thx for your input

                            1. re: VegasGourmet

                              OK....I am going to submit...for disapproval....7 lunches and dinners for my first trip to Paris. I am a "blue-collar foodie" and feel that comfort food is more important than eating as an experimentation. Please take that into account and deal with my "personalization" of decisions....recommendations with insight is greatly appreciated. Also....I am staying at Blvd De Sebastopol and Etienne Marcel and will ONLY walk to and from dinner (lunches are out and around based upon what I am experiencing that day)...Here goes:

                              1. Museum Day: Lunch at Le Quai; dinner at Aux Tonneaux des Halles for the Steak/Frites
                              2. Notre Dame/St Germain Day: Lunch at La Tournebievre; Fondue dinner at Pain Vin Fromage
                              3. Sunday at Le Mouffetard: Lunch at l'Estrapade; dinner at l'ambassade d'auvergne
                              4. Le Marais Day: Lunch at Cafe Hugo at Place des Vosges; casual dinner at Le Brigout
                              5. Eiffel Tower day: Lunch at La Fontaines de Mars; dinner at Auberge Nicolas Flamel
                              6. Place Vendome day: Lunch at Le Souffle; dinner at Pirouette
                              7. Passages in the 2nd day: Lunch at Racines; dinner at Une Poule Sur un Mur.
                              Changes...with reasoning...and menu suggestions are greatly welcomed.