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Mar 14, 2013 06:07 AM

Kuala Lumpur - Cantonese-style fish head at Happy Gardens

There's no resisting a suburb called Happy Gardens, and a street called "Jalan Lazat" (Malay for "Delicious Street") where a row of tin-roofed Chinese eateries offer some of the best Cantonese eats around.

I went to Mun Kee, the so-called "Fish-Head King", for dinner this evening. Its specialty, steamed local freshwater carp ("soong yue") topped with lots of minced ginger, finely-chopped scallions and garlic. It was fabulous - sweet, moist flesh, enhanced by the heat from the minced ginger. You need steamed white rice to complement this dish.

Other side-dishes we had:

- Water convolvulus ("kangkong") stir-fried with ground chillies, garlic and "belachan" (super-pungent Malay fermented shrimp paste);

- Crunchy stir-fried pig's intestines with dried shrimps, scallions and red chillies.

Very Chinese-Malaysian - you *don't* get this kind of Cantonese in HK or China, but only in Malaysia or Singapore, where the Chinese have integrated Malay ingredients into their cooking. You can also get this type of cooking in London Chinatown these days in restaurants like New Fook Lam Moon or Rasa Sayang.

Address details
"Fish-Head King" Steamed Fish-Head (Mun Kee)
New Happy Garden Food Court
43-A, Jalan Lazat 1
Taman Gembira
58200 Kuala Lumpur

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  1. hey does this place have another branch kind of by the Ritz Carlton? i think i almost went to that branch and decided to go to Soo Kee Mee b/c i thought fish head might be too much of a culture shock even though i really wanted it (looked so good)

    4 Replies
    1. re: Lau

      Yes, in fact I just found out from Googling *after* my meal there that they actually have a branch at Jln Imbi.

      You won't go wrong in choosing Soo Kee over Mun Kee. Soo Kee's much more established. Coming this way again anytime soon? There's a lot of good food to be found still in KL, just as in Singapore.

      Next time you're in Singapore, go to Taste Paradise at ION Orchard and order their baked char-siu-filled "bo lo bao" - even richer and tastier than Tim Ho Wan (HK)'s version. You just *have* to taste it.

      1. re: klyeoh

        re: KL - i really liked the food i had in KL, i thought the food i had was excellent, ill post on it soon. I feel like the food in KL / Malaysia is the food that may one day be dead in Singapore

        re: Mun Kee vs Soo Kee - Soo Kee was delicious. Mun Kee is sort of in this weird corner section, so its kind of easy to miss. My foodar went off when i saw that area and while one of my friends was napping I walked around the area and checked out stuff i thought looked good and Mun Kee was one of the places i checked out. Funny enough i started recognizing some of the places b/c you posted on them such as that one roast goose place.

        re: SE Asia - ill probably head to Asia later this year, but not sure if ill make it to southeast asia or not. I want to go to taiwan for a while, i havent been in a while and its about time.

        re: Taste Paradise - really? those cha siu bo lo bao @ THW are pretty damn good. I think I like basically anything bo lo bao related, I basically have one for breakfast once a week on the weekends with some yin yang cha.

        1. re: Lau

          When I first tried Tim Ho Wan's, I thought, "Hey, these are good".
          But when I had Taste Paradise's version the very first time, my mind just went, "Gaah!". It was an epiphany. I felt like I just wanted to grab another, and yet another until I can't possibly eat anymore. And this almost *never* happens to me usually :-D

          1. re: klyeoh

            ahhh haha...that happens to me alot bc i eat really fast and when im hungry i eat even faster. i turn into a shark and just start eating everything, but unfortunately while i can eat a decent amount i dont eat like a ton of food so if i do that i end up not being able to try everything b/c when i stop for a second all of the sudden i get full