Trokay - Truckee
Ambitious new restaurant opened last month and got its liquor license a little over a week ago. Chef worked at Daniel in NY, his wife-partner was head cheesemonger at Murray's. They were open for around six months last year as Trokay Cafe in another location.
Check out the coffee page on the beverages menu to see just how ambitious.
We went first for a light lunch.
Crudites ($12) were great and came with a great light warm fondue and a dill crème friache that needed a pinch more salt.
An open-faced croque-monsieur ($9) was delicious but the bread was not as crunchy as it should have been to live up to the name. I mentioned that to the server who went to talk to the chef, came back and said the chef said to the line cook, "It means Mister Crunchy!"
Had a great glass of Mikkeller Mexas Ranger on draft.
Went back to try the larger cheese plate ($17 / 3, $25 / 5), great obscure domestic cheeses in perfect condition. The irrelevant and unnecessary condiments Americans insist on were all excellent on their own. Never had green garlic jelly before.
The wine list isn't as broad as it should and probably will be. They didn't have a Beaujolais Villages or other light red that would have paired nicely with the quite varied cheeses, so I got an Alsatian Gewürztraminer, 2007 Gesetz Rieffel. It was off-dry, which was fine but unexpected.
So some training issues, but a whole lot of potential.