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Where to eat along with the Ardèche and the Jura? Burgundy? Savoie?

johannabanana Mar 5, 2013 02:51 PM

My husband and I are planning a 10 day trip, driving out of Lyon in May. We've already settled on the Hotel Faurie in Sainte-Agrève (upper Ardèche) and Poligny in the Jura but can't decide on another place to spend 2 or 3 nights. We're thinking of returning the rental car in Dijon at the end of the trip before taking the train to Paris. (We loved our meals at the Faurie last year, a superb recommendation from the board.)

We've considered the cadoles at the Troisgros's Colline du Colombier -- but is Le Grand Couvert, their restaurant there, open in May and worth it?

Also thought about Burgundy but we have no firm ideas there.

And Savoie, as my husband loves Reblochon, although it's hard to glean much information about places to eat and stay at in Savoie!

Any tips would be hugely appreciated, especially for restaurants/inns where you can comfortably stay in or near where you've eaten your dinner! Any Jura or Ardèche suggestions are great, too.

  1. mangeur Mar 5, 2013 05:43 PM

    As far as I know, Le Grand Covert is open in May. (Have you emailed them?) Beyond that, I don't understand your question or hesitation. Is the Colline worth a two night stay? Is Le Grand Couvert worth a stop for lunch? For dinner?

    We find it a delight on all counts. Not challenging or mind-blowing, but sincere, honest and delicious plates. I am still trying to find a recipe for the extraordinary fish stew I enjoyed last summer. "Matelote" on the menu, but all recipes I've found fall well short of what I was served.

    3 Replies
    1. re: mangeur
      johannabanana Apr 3, 2013 09:30 AM

      Unfortunately, the Faurie (who just started to answer reservation requests) won't open this year until June 6 -- a real shame as we had shaped our holiday around going there. I have started a new thread regarding a good lunch spot to stop off at when driving between Michel Bras (which we'll substitute in for the Faurie -- unless we missing out on somewhere really obvious in Southern Burgundy?) and Poligny: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/896960

      Before Bras we're spending a night at La Ruchotte and 2 nights at the Colline du Colombier.

      1. re: johannabanana
        DaTulip Apr 5, 2013 06:31 PM

        Table de Chaintre in Chaintre is worth a visit.

        1. re: DaTulip
          johannabanana Apr 13, 2013 09:54 AM

          Aside from Table de Chaintré (thank you again for kindly recommending this to us on another thread DaTulip, but it's a bit more creative than we're looking for), is there a traditional restaurant in Beaujolais -- or really anywhere between Iguerande and Poligny -- that's good for lunch? Le Cep has apparently closed, which would have been just the ticket.

    2. Delucacheesemonger Mar 5, 2013 05:57 PM

      While it has been a while, my two weeks in the Annecy region were very memorable. We would drive around the lake and have tartiflette at different places nightly. Many farms sold great reblochon as well as Thones is just outside Annecy. A drink at Auberge de Pere Bise right on the lake was excellent as well. The fountain in the center of Annecy is worth the trip alone.

      1. r
        rrems Mar 5, 2013 07:57 PM

        Read my earlier posts:

        http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/811827

        http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/656910

        1. Parigi Mar 6, 2013 02:27 AM

          I am a big fan of Annecy and also have my fave tartiflette place near it, on the lake, but did not find much good eats inside Annecy. I will consult rrem's reports...
          Excuse me for quoting self. I am nearly as lazy about writing the same thing as hounds who don't use the search function.
          "One fave place of mine for the dead of winter is a heart-warming tartiflette in a ferme auberge: Ferme de la charbonnière in Menthon Saint Bernard, which is on the way to Talloires. Reserve ahead of time, and the farm will have a fresh reblochon heating and dripping on farm-fresh ham and onion at your table before you arrive. The village itself is picture-perfect. We like to go for lunch, but Tartiflette in a farm is a very hearty fun thing to do on a snowy night.

          1 Reply
          1. re: Parigi
            johannabanana Mar 6, 2013 08:37 AM

            Thank you for all these ideas!

            Mangeur, thank you for reassuring us about La Colline du Colombier and le Grand Couvert. We are still unsure purely for logistical reasons: le Grand Couvert is closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays, which is likely to foul up our itinerary.

            Delucacheesemonger and Parigi -- we are working through Rohmer's Comedies and Proverbs and have Claire's Knee rented out from Netflix. We'll watch it again tonight for Lake Annecy! We've also been tempted by Lake Geneva and Le Pont de Brent over the border. More of a detour, though.

          2. ChefJune Mar 6, 2013 12:11 PM

            It's not in/on Annecy, but my colleague and former classmate at Haut Etudes du Gout, Marina Reale-Laden, is the chef at the Chateau/Hotel Coudree on the shores of Lac Leman between Evian and Geneva.

            See this link: http://www.chateau-hotel-coudree.com/...

            quite a lovely place.

            1 Reply
            1. re: ChefJune
              Parigi Mar 6, 2013 12:14 PM

              Claire's Knee is fantastic, filmed around in Talloire.

            2. z
              zizouz Mar 7, 2013 06:55 AM

              Jean-Paul Jeunet in Arbois as well as La Balance Mets et Vins. Go to Chateau-Chalon while you're there.

              4 Replies
              1. re: zizouz
                johannabanana Mar 9, 2013 10:53 AM

                Thank you for the Jura suggestions! We've decided on two nights in a cadole, on the strength of mangeur's recommendation, and a night at the ferme de la Ruchotte beforehand, which seems promising from other threads.

                It seemed like too much to squeeze in the Savoie as well as the Jura so we're going to simplify with 5 nights in Poligny and will certainly go to some of the restaurants recommended in Arbois. Hopefully, there will be time to make a pit-stop at Daniel et Denise in Lyon, too. We'll report back, and any further ideas for lunches, markets, hikes with picnics, would be gratefully received!

                1. re: johannabanana
                  r
                  rrems Mar 9, 2013 02:59 PM

                  Did you miss my post above referring to my earlier reports on Arbois, etc.? I hope my detailed descriptions will be of help.

                  1. re: rrems
                    johannabanana Mar 13, 2013 02:39 PM

                    I didn't miss it and thank you for linking to it -- the first report on the Jura is particularly useful, even if I think we'll probably eat dinner at our chambre d'hôte there most if not all of the 5 nights. We may well try Jean-Paul Jeunet at lunchtime one day, if we haven't had our fill of finer dining in Paris.

                    1. re: johannabanana
                      r
                      rrems Mar 13, 2013 06:18 PM

                      I hope the food at the chambre d'hote turns out to be great, If you do have a meal in Arbois, I will point out that Jean-Paul Jeunet is a bargain compared with Paris prices. We usually try to have our top meals outside of Paris for that reason. However, if you want something simpler than Jeunet, Les Caudalies would be a great choice, and the setting would be particularly nice during the day, as it has walls of glass overlooking the river, which we could not see at night.

              2. q
                quarolquinzieme Mar 9, 2013 04:32 PM

                I actuallly have a question for you rather than a response. Have you been successful in making a reservation at the Hotel Faurie? I haven't gotten a response to my email requesting a reservation. Their answering machine says they won't open until April so I don't know if that means they'll respond then or not. I'd hate for them to be fully booked. Thanks for you help.

                1 Reply
                1. re: quarolquinzieme
                  johannabanana Mar 13, 2013 02:41 PM

                  quaroiquinzieme, I haven't been able to reach anyone either.

                2. johannabanana Jun 23, 2013 06:53 AM

                  Trip report here!
                  http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/906609

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