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Mar 5, 2013 02:51 PM

Where to eat along with the Ardèche and the Jura? Burgundy? Savoie?

My husband and I are planning a 10 day trip, driving out of Lyon in May. We've already settled on the Hotel Faurie in Sainte-Agrève (upper Ardèche) and Poligny in the Jura but can't decide on another place to spend 2 or 3 nights. We're thinking of returning the rental car in Dijon at the end of the trip before taking the train to Paris. (We loved our meals at the Faurie last year, a superb recommendation from the board.)

We've considered the cadoles at the Troisgros's Colline du Colombier -- but is Le Grand Couvert, their restaurant there, open in May and worth it?

Also thought about Burgundy but we have no firm ideas there.

And Savoie, as my husband loves Reblochon, although it's hard to glean much information about places to eat and stay at in Savoie!

Any tips would be hugely appreciated, especially for restaurants/inns where you can comfortably stay in or near where you've eaten your dinner! Any Jura or Ardèche suggestions are great, too.

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  1. As far as I know, Le Grand Covert is open in May. (Have you emailed them?) Beyond that, I don't understand your question or hesitation. Is the Colline worth a two night stay? Is Le Grand Couvert worth a stop for lunch? For dinner?

    We find it a delight on all counts. Not challenging or mind-blowing, but sincere, honest and delicious plates. I am still trying to find a recipe for the extraordinary fish stew I enjoyed last summer. "Matelote" on the menu, but all recipes I've found fall well short of what I was served.

    3 Replies
    1. re: mangeur

      Unfortunately, the Faurie (who just started to answer reservation requests) won't open this year until June 6 -- a real shame as we had shaped our holiday around going there. I have started a new thread regarding a good lunch spot to stop off at when driving between Michel Bras (which we'll substitute in for the Faurie -- unless we missing out on somewhere really obvious in Southern Burgundy?) and Poligny:

      Before Bras we're spending a night at La Ruchotte and 2 nights at the Colline du Colombier.

      1. re: johannabanana

        Table de Chaintre in Chaintre is worth a visit.

        1. re: DaTulip

          Aside from Table de Chaintré (thank you again for kindly recommending this to us on another thread DaTulip, but it's a bit more creative than we're looking for), is there a traditional restaurant in Beaujolais -- or really anywhere between Iguerande and Poligny -- that's good for lunch? Le Cep has apparently closed, which would have been just the ticket.

    2. While it has been a while, my two weeks in the Annecy region were very memorable. We would drive around the lake and have tartiflette at different places nightly. Many farms sold great reblochon as well as Thones is just outside Annecy. A drink at Auberge de Pere Bise right on the lake was excellent as well. The fountain in the center of Annecy is worth the trip alone.

        1. I am a big fan of Annecy and also have my fave tartiflette place near it, on the lake, but did not find much good eats inside Annecy. I will consult rrem's reports...
          Excuse me for quoting self. I am nearly as lazy about writing the same thing as hounds who don't use the search function.
          "One fave place of mine for the dead of winter is a heart-warming tartiflette in a ferme auberge: Ferme de la charbonnière in Menthon Saint Bernard, which is on the way to Talloires. Reserve ahead of time, and the farm will have a fresh reblochon heating and dripping on farm-fresh ham and onion at your table before you arrive. The village itself is picture-perfect. We like to go for lunch, but Tartiflette in a farm is a very hearty fun thing to do on a snowy night.

          1 Reply
          1. re: Parigi

            Thank you for all these ideas!

            Mangeur, thank you for reassuring us about La Colline du Colombier and le Grand Couvert. We are still unsure purely for logistical reasons: le Grand Couvert is closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays, which is likely to foul up our itinerary.

            Delucacheesemonger and Parigi -- we are working through Rohmer's Comedies and Proverbs and have Claire's Knee rented out from Netflix. We'll watch it again tonight for Lake Annecy! We've also been tempted by Lake Geneva and Le Pont de Brent over the border. More of a detour, though.

          2. It's not in/on Annecy, but my colleague and former classmate at Haut Etudes du Gout, Marina Reale-Laden, is the chef at the Chateau/Hotel Coudree on the shores of Lac Leman between Evian and Geneva.

            See this link:

            quite a lovely place.

            1 Reply
            1. re: ChefJune

              Claire's Knee is fantastic, filmed around in Talloire.