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Pot Roast in France

b
blorman Mar 2, 2013 12:35 AM

I'm an expat in Paris and want to cook a pot roast. I tried it once before and it didn't go so well. They don't have a chuck roast here, last time I used a cut called 'paleron'. It has a large layer of gristle in the middle which caused the meat to pucker into a ball while cooking, which made it hard to manage liquid levels. At the end the gristle was still tough and I had to cut around it. Anyway, I'm not sure if it was technique or ingredients. Does anybody have any suggestions? Are there any french beef experts out there?

Thanks
Tim

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  1. sunshine842 RE: blorman Mar 2, 2013 01:00 AM

    Pick up a "gite de noix" -- or even better, beef cheeks (joue de boeuf) -- both make fantastic beef stew. Warning, you'll fall in love with beef cheeks -- with all the collagen, they make a silky-textured broth with incredible flavor. Macreuse or jumeau will work, too (I buy a big hunk of jumeau to cure for corned beef )

    You might also find this helpful to sort out the difference in cuts:

    http://cuisine.journaldesfemmes.com/e...

    (scroll down to the diagram)

    5 Replies
    1. re: sunshine842
      b
      blorman RE: sunshine842 Mar 2, 2013 03:39 AM

      Thanks! I'll put joue de boeuf on my list.

      For now I want to braise one large piece of beef. Are all the other choices (gite de noix, jumeau, macreuse) good for this?

      1. re: blorman
        sunshine842 RE: blorman Mar 2, 2013 04:13 AM

        Yes -- they'll make a great braise. I usually buy gite de noix because it gets very, very tender, and you can buy it in small pieces for things like bourgignonne, or in larger chunks for a braise.

        Beef cheeks can get really big -- nearly a kilo each, and while they're more expensive than gite, and even more expensive than the shoulder cuts, oh, they're so, so good.

        An aside -- if you buy meat specifically for bourgignonne (usually collier) -- you have to marinate it overnight (in wine) and then braise it several hours -- the flavor is awesome, but it's tougher than nails. (Gite gets around this....)

        If you're shopping at a boucherie, ask him for meat for a daube -- Daube is a Provencale stew, but it's a large piece of meat to be braised with vegetables.

        If you're shopping from one of the larger supermarkets, it's really, really helpful that they label it all pretty clearly:

        à poeler: to be panfried
        à griller: to be grilled (I panfry these, too)
        à braiser: to be braised
        à rôtir: to be roasted
        à bouillir: to be boiled (these are the really cheap, really tough cuts)

        You might also pick up a copy of "Je Sais Cuisiner", by Ginette Mathiot - it's more or less the French version of "Joy of Cooking" - it has lots and lots of diagrams and tables for beef, pork, veal, lamb, etc -- I picked mine up at FNAC for about €7. I don't really use the recipes, but as general reference it's priceless.

        Not what you asked, but along the lines of sorting out what you're seeing for sale -- you also might find this helpful for fish: http://www.sea-ex.com/fish/names1.htm

        Drove me bonkers trying to figure out what kind of fish is what -- and I still struggle with it.

        1. re: sunshine842
          paulj RE: sunshine842 Mar 2, 2013 09:26 AM

          I wonder if the English translation, I Know how to Cook, has the same diagrams.
          http://www.phaidon.com/store/food-coo...

          1. re: paulj
            sunshine842 RE: paulj Mar 2, 2013 10:50 AM

            I wondered the same thing, but I'm going to guess and say no, because the English versions are more likely to have the diagrams of English or American butchery, I would imagine.

            Plus, Je Sais Cuisiner is just good to have on hand as a reference when you're an expat.

        2. re: blorman
          hotoynoodle RE: blorman Mar 2, 2013 08:14 AM

          +1 on the beef cheeks (joue de boeuf)!!!

          wish i had better access to them in the states.

      2. sunshine842 RE: blorman Mar 2, 2013 04:17 AM

        by the way -- don't forget to pick up a couple of marrow bones, as is traditional in a classic pot de feu (pot roast!) -- they add fabulous flavor and texture, and OMG - that marrow, slathered on a piece of fresh baguette will make you fall on your knees in gratitude for having landed in a place where good food is so plentiful and easy to find.

        1. j
          janniecooks RE: blorman Mar 2, 2013 05:52 AM

          From Mastering the Art of French Cooking, beef cuts for braising:

          First choice: Rump Pot Roast - Pointe de Culotte, or Aiguillette de Rumsteck
          Other choices: Sirloin Tip, Kunckle - Tranche Grasse
          Chuck Pot Roast - Paleron or Macreuse a Pot-au-feu
          Top Round - Tende de Tranche
          Bottom Round - Gite a la Noix
          Eye of Round - Rond de Gite a la Noix

          (apologies for the lack of diacritical marks)

          3 Replies
          1. re: janniecooks
            sunshine842 RE: janniecooks Mar 2, 2013 09:21 AM

            Pointe de Culotte, Aiguillette de Rumsteck, and Tranche Grasse are not common cuts -- I've yet to see one in any supermarket or boucherie.

            Not to say they don't exist -- I'm sure they do, somewhere, but they're not common.

            1. re: sunshine842
              j
              janniecooks RE: sunshine842 Mar 3, 2013 01:05 AM

              Just citing Julia Child.

              1. re: janniecooks
                sunshine842 RE: janniecooks Mar 3, 2013 01:16 AM

                I know....but Julia hasn't shopped for beef in France recently.

          2. paulj RE: blorman Mar 2, 2013 09:33 AM

            http://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2008...
            talks about splitting the paleron along the gristle to get two flatter pieces that are quite tender.

            I do that sort of thing with hanging tenders (onglet). The gristle from the tenders becomes quite soft and gelatinous when braised (in full contact with the liquid).

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