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Feb 26, 2013 03:32 PM

Trip Report

Hi all. Hope it is not too long.

Our plan was to eat a light lunch and splurge on dinner.

Monday 2/11
Arrived to snow!
Light lunch at Bosphorus Kebab which was about a 30 second walk from our flat. I had the chicken shish and my partner the chicken kebab along with an order of hummus. As it was our first time at an authentic kebab place we took note of what others were doing with the salad and chili sauce and dug in! It was fantastic.

We had reservations our first night at The Harwood Arms. Let me just say, it did not disappoint! We started out with the Cheltenham beetroots with smoked bone marrow, hazelnuts, and curd. My entrée was the braised neck of Herdwick lamb with artichokes and garlic. My partner had the roast Berkshire pheasant with champ, bacon, and chestnuts. We also enjoyed a nice bottle of rioja. We finished with the dessert special which was a buttermilk curd (sort of ice cream) with quince. Overall an outstanding dinner… the house bread was excellent. I liked the atmosphere and the service was very good.

Tuesday 2/12
Not sure what we had for lunch.
Dinner at Mohsen. We started with the Kashk O Bademjan. My entrée was Momtaz. My partner had the Chelo Khoresh Fesenjan. It was all very good. The bread was amazing. I was full long before I finished eating. I just couldn’t stop.

Wednesday 2/13
Dinner at St John Bread and Wine. On the way to kill some time we stopped at Harrod’s. We just wanted to see what it was all about and it is over the top! We browsed the food and drink sections and then stopped for a minute for a glass of wine at Bentley’s.

Dinner. We ordered a bottle of the St. John Claret which was actually quite good. We started with some rock oysters and a salad. We eat a lot of salad at home and this was the first bit of green we’d had in a couple of days. My entrée was hare saddle, barley, and kale. My partner was over meat so went with the butternut squash, lentils, and yoghurt. Dessert was the honey mousse and chocolate chip biscuit along with two espressos. I loved the place. When we left it was snowing again. Beautiful but made it quite cold for the ceremony of the keys!

Thursday 2/14
We were to go to Greenwich this day and eat at Tayyabs on the way back. It was just a miserably cold day so opted to do indoor things. There was an outdoor food market at Covent Garden so we got some food there. We also got some really good olives for the flat. After a long day out we decided to get take out from Bosphorus Kebab and stay in. This time I had the doner kebab. My partner had the spicy chicken kofte. We got some of the yoghurt too. It was the right answer after a long, cold day out. All meals at the flat were accompanied with a good bottle of wine.

Friday 2/14
We decided to go to the Borough Market. What an incredible place. We had lunch at Wright Bros. Our appetizer was the ½ dozen selection of oysters. Divine. My entrée was the queen scallop, mushroom, and tarragon salad. My partner had New Orleans style oysters. We got a couple of bottles of wine and some cheese from Neal’s Yard Dairy for the flat and headed back as we had tickets to The Audience that evening. After the play we headed for Bentley’s for a snack and a couple of drinks. We had to have oysters again. I won’t go in to detail of types, etc. Suffice it to say they were just amazing. We had an order of chips too. That was enough as it was late.

Saturday 2/15
We took the Thames Clipper out to Greenwich. The market was fun. For lunch I had Ethiopian food. Basically rice, lentils, chickpeas, and spinach. My partner had a green curry. After staying in Greenwich most of the day we decided to get take out from Bosphorus again. (It was just too good and convenient). Our plan was to go to the Spitalfield and Brick Lane markets the next day - Sunday. And to get a curry on Brick Lane. This time at Bosphorus I got the large mixed grill kebab. My partner had the chicken breast kebab. It was all very good…

Sunday 2/16
I awoke to a nasty bout of food poisoning. I am choosing not to make any accusations here. For a while I thought I had E coli. It was not a good day for me. Needless to say we did not go anywhere which was so disappointing as it was our last day. An absolutely beautiful day. And our big market day.

We were to head to Rome the following day for 3 days. We decided if I could get on a plane it would be wisest just to go home. Not the way I wanted to end my trip to London, but I loved it nonetheless. Thanks for the food recs. We didn’t eat everywhere we wanted but have options for the next time.


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  1. What a disappointing end to your trip, Cheryl. But good to hear you otherwise enjoyed visiting our capital.

    I'm always pleased when I read someone has had Herdwick lamb (or mutton). It's raised in my region (north west England) and it's my favourite breed for eating. I reckon running up and down the hills gives it more taste than lowland sheep have.

    3 Replies
    1. re: Harters

      Harters, that lamb neck was amazing. I've never had neck of lamb before. It was so tender and full of flavor. Truly an outstanding meal.

      I cannot wait to return!

      1. re: czman

        Lamb neck is what we'd often use for a braise or casserole. It's lean enough to be quite quick to cook but with enough fat to keep it tasty.

        If ever you come across it where you live, this is a good recipe.

        Here's a link to the Herdwick breeders association, for info:

        1. re: Harters

          Thank you for both links Harters! You have every right to be proud of your Herdwick lamb. The recipe looks delicious. I wil have to see if I can find something comparable here in the states. If not, maybe I can try it with oxtails.

    2. aah too bad about the food posioning! but glad you had a good time otherwise

      1 Reply
      1. re: howler

        Thanks howler. Can't let one bad day ruin a great trip!

      2. Harters, a pic of the lamb dish at The Harwood Arms.

        9 Replies
          1. re: czman

            You'd have thought that they would have wiped the plates before bringing them out ...

            1. re: Theresa

              I can do a good 10 minute rant about that style of plating. But it basically revolves round the fact that, once you daub your sauce on with a brush, it often dries very quickly making it impossible for the diner to actually eat it.

              It's even worse than the fashion for "swooshing" a puree. You know what I mean - when you dollop a spoonful of puree onto the plate and then drag it across the plate with a spoon. Just because they've seen Michel Roux do it on telly, doesnt mean every fecking chef in the country has to copy it. Is there a proper term for it, I wonder? Or shall I just stick with "swooshing"?

              1. re: Harters

                Thankfully the "swooshing" did not take away from the flavor of the lamb. ;)

                1. re: Harters

                  I think the word you're looking for H, is faff.

                  1. re: Paprikaboy

                    Paprikaboy and Harters, here is a pic of the dessert at The Harwood Arms with the swooshing or faff! Still delicious though.

                    1. re: czman

                      Dessert looks bloody nice.

                      By the by, I take it when you went to Greenwich it was the "street food" market that was on? We happened upon it last time we were in Greenwich but, unfortunately, had just eaten lunch. But it looked really good.

                      1. re: Harters

                        Harters, in Greenwich there was a market that had several types of cuisines as well as items for sale. I would call it "street food". We both enjoyed our lunches that day. I had been eating a lot of meat so the vegetarian that day was particulary nice.

                        I have pics of everything we ate should you or anyone want to see them.

                        That dessert was bloody nice!

                        1. re: Harters

                          There is a noodle and dumpling stall at Greenwich covered market on weekdays. I can't remember the name. It's not there at the weekends unfortunately, but if you can get there during the week it can't be missed as the guy is hand-pulling fresh noodles to order.Their braised beef noodles in particular are very good indeed, especially with a good spoon of dried chili in oil.

              2. Add my voice to those commiserating at your ill-fortune but glad that prior to your last day you had an enjoyable trip.