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Feb 19, 2013 10:38 AM

Three nights in Venice, after many years.

My wife and I are planning a trip in April to Venezia and Firenze. We both have pretty sophisticated palates, having lived in Brooklyn, NYC for many years, where good, reasonable restaurants abound.

We are staying in Dorsoduro and I'd appreciate a rec for a place in that sestiere for our first night (a Sunday) since we will have just arrived. It doesn't have to be really fine dining; I'd prefer something more relaxed since we will be tired from the trip. The next two, nights however, we can go farther afield for something more momentous.

BTW, it's been decades since I have been to Italy. Is lunch still considered the main meal? What time do people go for dinner?

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  1. Except a few places near Cp San Barnaba, Dorsoduro does not have many sit down restaurants, though lots of bars/cafes and informal lunch places. Casual and open on Sunday night in that sestiere: Taverna San Trovaso, Oniga (which has outside sitting on the Cp San Barnabas that would be great the later part of April when the weather might be warm enough); just off the campo is Casin dei Nobili with a nice garden (full menu including pizza) and on Lunga San Barnaba is Pane Vino et San Danieli. Osteria alla Bifora, on Cp Santa Margherita is pretty good. I am pretty sure all are open on Sundays. Can't think of recommending much else.
    As for your other two nights, I would take a look at the many previous threads on Venice. Mondays can also be difficult as many places are closed, especially those that are seafood-only, ie Alle Testiere, Antiche Carampane, Corta Sconta to name a few.
    In Venice, local families go out for a big midday meal on Sundays; lunch the rest of the week, not much. Dinner time in Venice, it is an early city; except on weekends and great weather, 7:30 to 8pm.

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